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I Forge Iron

Whimpy

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    New Hampshire

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  1. As a fairly new knife maker I dream of someday creating a sword. But I can't help but think that my 5 years of learning somehow does not compare to the over 3000 years of learning and evolution that has come before me in the development of the skills of the swordsmith. I think I will keep practicing and learning before I reach for this dream :-)
  2. Neat a double sided straight edge for lining up that pesky plunge line......I like it.
  3. Annealed 1095, worked with files and sand paper, so no normalizing needed Brought to non-mag, quenched in olive oil at 130f, 2 cycles of 1 hour at 360f. No visible defects in the blade. You are correct, the test will be how it performs over time.
  4. Thank you! That was intentional, I had seen that done on several examples of traditional Deba knives, I also refined the handle as I found it a bit clunky and finished honing it. It took a razors edge and my son loves it. P.S. the best new is I finally figured out how to properly post pictures!
  5. Update: Finished a a Chef Knife for my son. http://http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/vv15/tim_ingersoll2/Mobile Uploads/20160306_174739_zpshjph9fmc.jpg http://http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/vv15/tim_ingersoll2/Mobile Uploads/20160306_174113_zpsrpitgek6.jpg Hope he likes it. It is oil quenched 1095 Japanese grind front and back. Gun blued above the blade road.
  6. I have been looking close at this piece of work and realize the lines are all wrong and the finish is a bit sloppy, I think you should send it to me and I will dispose of it properly It is beautiful to my eyes.
  7. I have some experience in the rehabilitation of straights and I would suggest that if you are going to attempt to make a straight for the first time I would offer that a wedge in high quality carbon before attempting a full hollow ground singer. Secondly I would suggest if you do chose to go with damascus you go with a high quality steel from a known source. The reason I suggest this is that there is truly a difference between razor sharp and truly shave ready, the differences in hardness from one steel and the other in an inferior damascus could result in never being ale to truly achieve a shave ready state. Just my noon two cents. Whimpy
  8. No, I was working with annealed steel and it was stock removal done mostly with files so there was very little heat generated, I also noted the little imperfections in the profile you noted, I should have noted it pre-heat treat, but I was rushing to get it done so I could start testing the design and the heat treatment, could of blown the hole test. Interesting thought on the single bevel, I did not realize that it would cause problems as I left the edge a little thicker than a dime.
  9. Thanks for the kind words I am happy to accept any advice ya'all are willing to part with.
  10. After thinking about it, I suppose it would have been nice if a description was added. This little skinner/bushcraft knife I came up with is made from 5/32", 1095, it is my first attempt at heat treating after exhaustive research on it. I heated it in a charcoal forge to non-magnetic and brine quenched it (no pings). I gave it 3, 1 hour cycles at 360 for tempering. It has a single bevel and took a razor edge, which after cutting packing tape, summer sausage and cheese, is still popping hair with no touch up, might I have had some beginners luck?
  11. Nice looking knives, I personally love the Era you are representing
  12. http://http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/vv15/tim_ingersoll2/Mobile Uploads/20160221_130252_zpsgreeyytp.jpg Hi all, I thought I would share my newest creation.
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