Matthew Paul Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 I put togeather a couple forging videos recently, one is about making a draw knife, and the other is about forging a knife. I figured that I would share theme here as some people may enjoy them. Thanks, Matthew Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Nice job on the vids....was planning on making a draw knife soon and this is a nice little tutorial. Thanks for sharing! Great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
switchjv Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Excellent! A draw knife was going to be a future project for me aa well. thanks for the video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyler Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 nice knife man!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin1050 Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Nice job! How wide was the starting stock on the draw knife? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Paul Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 Thank you. Kevin,the starting stock was 1"x1/8" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalmangeler Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 It is nice to see you actively working to avoid pounding scale into your blade. I have a stool near my anvil to set such tools on so I don't need to pick them up off the floor. I suppose it an old age deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakwoodironworks Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 Really nice videos! Enjoyed watching them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metal99 Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Great videos Matthew, would love to see some more. What kind of steel did you use for the drifter? How thick was the stock? And one more question, what do you use for a quench oil? Sorry for all the questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Paul Posted November 8, 2012 Author Share Posted November 8, 2012 It is nice to see you actively working to avoid pounding scale into your blade. I have a stool near my anvil to set such tools on so I don't need to pick them up off the floor. I suppose it an old age deal. Thank you Sir. I had a hook on my old anvil/stand that I dont really use anymore. I suppose that I should change it over to this stump or make something for my hammer rack. Great videos Matthew, would love to see some more. What kind of steel did you use for the drifter? How thick was the stock? And one more question, what do you use for a quench oil? Sorry for all the questions. Thank you, that's nice to hear! I used 3/16" thick and 1 1/4" tall 1095. I use McMaster Carr 11 sec oil/ Super Brand Quenchfast. No worries on the questions. And thanks oakwoodironworks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metal99 Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Cool :) I'm pretty new to forging knives but I do have a good "love hate" relationship with 1095. It took me a while to nail the heat treat and I still ended up losing a few blades. Have you had your blades hardness tested? I had some of my test pieces tested and I got the best results out of water quenching but I don't have any commercial quench oils so my tests were with ATF (I knew from the get go that it wouldn't cool it fast enough) canola oil and water. I didn't try brine because water was being mean enough to my blades lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Paul Posted November 8, 2012 Author Share Posted November 8, 2012 Why did you loose them? due to cracking while water quenching? I have not had my blades tested. I do know though, how to temper for the hardness that I am looking for. What # it is on any scale, I couldent tell you. You can cool 1095 fast enough in oils though. I warm my quench oil prior to hardening. I have hardened blades without issue in motor oils, veg oils, etc... It is not what I use now but have in the past. You dont need to reach the maximum hardness allowed by physics, in my opinon. You do however need to learn the setup/process that you are using, and be able to reliably repeat it or adjust it according to the tool and what it will be used for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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