ToolSteel Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 I recently purchased a 200 pound Trenton. Striking the face produces a bright ring. I just noticed that the horn rings with a bit of a buzz to it. I polished the top and discovered a one inch +/- hairline crack. I have plenty of pictures to post but none yet of the crack. I have a few questions. Can I post an audio file so you guys can hear what I think I hear? Is there any way to repair the horn? ToolSteel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Depending on the age the horn may be cast steel or wrought iron. Either way it can be welded up; however WI is a pain to weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToolSteel Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 Hello again. I've added some pictures of the 200 pound Trenton I recently bought. The first image (1156) is of the crack in the horn. It's not large... yet. I scratched both ends to see if it grows. If I can figure out how to add a sound file, I'll try and let you hear what I think I hear when I'm working over the horn. Image 1121 shows the serial number, which is on the right side of the base, beneath the horn. 200 is stamped into the far left of the base. Although I didn't get a picture of the weight stamp, I know the sound I make when I lift 200 pounds of anything. Picture 1134 gives an indication of the size of this anvil. The WD40 is on top of the face to provide a sense of scale. And lastly, 1117 shows the thick weld seam at the waist and a curious mark below it. It looks as though it's been welded there. I'd really appreciate some feedback on the crack. I'm a bit heartsick because I was really starting to develop a nice relationship with this anvil. Now I have fears of the horn snapping off while I'm working. But I'm new enough to blacksmithing to realize I might be making this out to be far worse than it it. I ramble. ToolSteel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenforge Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 You should be able to use a round file and try and get to the bottom of the crack then weld in the groove. The horn is not hardened steel and as long as you keep the face from getting hot there should be no adverse affects. I wouldnt worry about the weld at the waist, it appears to be sound and since you get a good ring other than the slight buzz in the horn thats a good indicator. We all go thru life bearing some scars just like your anvil, dont abandon it! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sask Mark Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 I cleaned up all the cuts and gouges on the horn of my anvil with a zip disc to open up the gouge and then arc welded them with 7018 rods. No preheating was required. IFI member Junior Strasil provided me his blueprint that he developed on anvil repair that outlined this method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 As a long ago horseshoer, an analogue might be what we would see as a crack on a horse's hoof wall. We would always say to ourselves, "Is it deep or superficial?" If it's deep and goes to the quick or almost to the quick, it is problematic. If superficial, it could be discovered by rasping or using the hook of the farrier's knife. I would venture that your anvil crack is "superficial" and that you should follow the above advice. Even a 60 series rod would be OK for that kind of repair. Don't give up on the Trenton. I have two and they are wonderful anvils. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 The more "recent" Trentons used a cast *steel* base that was arc welded at the waist---so that's probably the original manufacturer's weld. Good ring means it's a "sound anvil" I'd not even worry about that crack on the horn; but you could weld it up if it would make you feel better. Do you discard your vehicle the first rattle it gets? That anvil will outlast *both* of us! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToolSteel Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 Thanks for the replies. I need to make a few things clear: it was NEVER my intention to get rid of the Trenton. I was afraid the horn would fail completely, thereby ending my budding relationship with this beast. I posted my concerns in order to get your opinions about the magnitude of the problem. I'm very grateful for the responses and they make me feel as though I can repair this myself. As for the weld, I merely mentioned it because it took up a large part of one photo. From my understanding, it's how some of these Trentons were made at the factory, so that's not a problem at all. Another reason for that particular picture is the raised-welded "signature" beneath the weld. At least that's my gut feeling about the mark. The man who welded the pieces together intentionally put his mark on this anvil. If that's the case, it's very cool indeed.. So... thanks for the comments. Keep them coming because I find them fascinating. One more thing: by looking at the serial number, can someone tell me when this anvil was made? ToolSteel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenforge Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 According to AIA this Trenton would have been made sometime between 1943 and April of 1945. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToolSteel Posted October 4, 2012 Author Share Posted October 4, 2012 Frozenforge, Thanks for pinpointing the date for me. No way of proving this, but since this anvil was made during WWII, I'm guessing it was being used in a war effort factory of some sort. I can't see the government letting this much steel go to farmers or private citizens. Thanks to everyone who's replied to this post. I have an old Mouse Hole without a heel or a faceplate. I think I'll cut some lines on the underside of the horn and practice my welding. ToolSteel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Well war effort included farming and mining. What we usually see for wartime made items is a lower job of "finishing" like not grinding a weld bead...like your example for example Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToolSteel Posted October 5, 2012 Author Share Posted October 5, 2012 How dare you insult my weld bead. (If I weren't a 59 year old man, this is where I'd insert a smiley face emoticon.) When I feel confident enough to stick weld the crack, I'll probably use a flap disk to dress the entire horn and the face. I might as well tackle the weld bead too. It sort of looks like an autopsy incision, doesn't it? ToolSteel, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Why modify it---it came that way! I've had too many unplanned modifications to myself to modify something else "just for looks"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToolSteel Posted October 17, 2012 Author Share Posted October 17, 2012 Last night, I finally fixed the crack in my Trenton horn. I carefully searched for the base of the fissure using a Dremel cut-off disc. Fortunately, it was very shallow. After deepening and widening the cut I made, I welded it with a 1/8" Forney 312-16 Easy All Stainless Steel electrode. I've had very good luck with these. I cleaned away the slag, hammered the weld into the horn a bit, then used a flap disk on a 7" angle grinder to smooth it out. Can't even tell there used to be a crack there. Thanks everyone for the advice. ToolSteel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 AHHHHH! In future avoid using SS welding rods unless you have to. Plain old 7018 or an E-60xx rod has better mechanical strength properties than all but SS rods specifically made for a join. The time you really need a high nickle rod is for brittle cast iron, say a wood stove, thin and brittle iron needs something forgiving and flexible. Welco 92 is 92% nickle SS rod and works well on wood stoves. Wrought or malleable (gray?) cast iron responds well to 7018 if you keep the amps near the bottom end so it doesn't erode the cast iron. Visually the rod just eats into the base cast iron and doesn't want to fill because cast iron has a lower melting temp. Getting good beads at low amps can be harder but not burning holes in the base is worth it. I have a 206lb Trenton with some "repairs" on it and by the looks of the beads the welder had no problems at all and it's not a wrought body anvil. Irks the "bad words deleted" out of me the guy used SS rod to "repair" the edges! SS rod is usually at least a LITTLE softer and more malleable than 70 or E60 rods so it deforms more easily. Good thing I only beat HOT iron/steel on it eh? Sorry I missed your question early enough to toss my experience in the mix. Don't worry, where you welded the horn isn't going to suffer for SS rod being used, not a whit. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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