Nonsense. I used to chew on lead when I was a kid, and I am.........uh............. I guess that might explain why I am as I am and not the absilute ruler of the TRI-STATE AREA!!!

...yet!

Nonsense. I used to chew on lead when I was a kid, and I am.........uh............. I guess that might explain why I am as I am and not the absilute ruler of the TRI-STATE AREA!!!

I salute you O mighty one, drool. I chewed on lead as well when I started my artisan career in stained glass and was told the error of my ways in no uncertain terms..........The greatest danger when melting lead is getting it too hot thus vaporizing the metal into a white smoke much the same as galvanized steel. Don't do that!!!

white smoke much the same as galvanized steel. Don't do that!!!

And then they say you should take Zink tablets??????????HUH?????????? :rolleyes:

Lead is not alowed to be used in construction in some places this is why I brought up the idea of using alternative alloys.

I have come across similar shaped collars that were made of bronze, so that would get over any toxicity problems if lead is banned. Also authentic/traditional for the restoration specialists

And then they say you should take Zink tablets??????????HUH?????????? :rolleyes:

Zinc is not toxic. Zinc smoke is. I've used sheet zinc for counter tops and there are no health issues as far as code. I've ingested zinc tablets and wouldn't dream of smokin' em.... :unsure: ....Cast zinc for collars would be far more durable than lead and you only need another 238deg F to melt it.

I have come across similar shaped collars that were made of bronze, so that would get over any toxicity problems if lead is banned. Also authentic/traditional for the restoration specialists

Cast in place or pre-cast, John?

Another thing recommending lead is that I can go to the scrap merchant and buy it and be pretty sure that it is lead. Other metals I am not so familiar with.

Cast in place, at assembly.,

I have also produced similar in the normal collar making manner using bar forged to profile (as you started), then formed around a mandrel using top and bottom swages of the profile needed, you have to work them to get the square corners sharp, and at assembly, close them using the top and bottom swages to maintain the crispness of the corners..

brill.
i worked on the restoration of a 1890s spiked fence of a cemetary in brisbane, as trees had fallen and damaged the spikes over the 100 years since its last repair.... i scored some lovely wrought iron, netherton best best, and also noted that each 5ft, 0.9in round wrought spike, was leaded into the stonework, i didnt realise it was also used in this application!

the boss insisted that the only way to do it better was to epoxy the replacements (mild steel) all back in....
a *true* traditionalist.... :blink:

John- that's hard core; there's a big difference in scariness between molten lead and molten brass! I wonder why they would do it that way?

Woody, as in Ian in SA said, epoxy is great until you want to undo it!

Another way to use lead(and in areas where it's banned use plumbers lead free solder) is to cast thin rods - like wire, and then 'cork' it in using a punch/drift This method also allows for 'tweaking'.

as far as i could tell the originals were caulked in. the little lead slug had a definate "seam" on one side.

John- that's hard core; there's a big difference in scariness between molten lead and molten brass! I wonder why they would do it that way?

These ones were left polished to provide a contrast I should think, one of the original colours (under numerous black layers) was a regency red/maroon finish, and there were lines of gold leaf to accentuate features, they also had cast bronze medallions and rosettes in
They were pretty impressive when I worked on them, But I would think spectacular looking originally. Shame I wasn't allowed to restore to as original.

Just as an aside Dan, were the scrolls pinned in place before the lead applied, originally I believe there were tongs made as casting moulds for this type of fixing.

As to caulking lead, take care not to tamp too hard, or you can split the stonework it is mounted in.

John, the brass collars, gold leaf etc. sound quite Skidmore-ish.
The scrolls were quite solidly riveted together. I think you moght be able to see the rivet in the "before" photo?

Can just make out a blob for the rivet head, I just mentioned the rivetting to explain how the scrolls were held in situ prior to the casting process, although its obvious they initially need to be fixed firmly, sometimes obvious is not so to the inexperienced.

To make the mold fall free from the casting , use soot from acetylene torch to blacken the mold. I looked in the local hardware store and found lead wool is still available. This material is what the old timers would tamp into holes to affix ironwork into a hole in stonework. I really liked the scrolls in the illustration , did you have to make any replacement scrolls?

Using zinc as a non-toxic substitute for lead has been mentioned, and would work very well in a dry climate. In a salt air environment though, you could see your zinc collars being dissolved as they will act as the more reactive anode to the iron or steel.

I really liked the scrolls in the illustration , did you have to make any replacement scrolls?

I did. I tig welded them on so that all the welding was under the collar.