WmHorus Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Ive had a problem with breaking sanding belts and I wonder if there is some special adhesive tape they use to put belts together or can I just use some ductape on the back to get them rolling again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herb Upham Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 I recomend you figure out why you're are breaking the joints before trying to glue them back together. I break 2"X72" belts occassionally if I am running them too fast around a small contact wheel. The stiff heavy weight belts wear-out before failing on a flat platten or my 8" contact wheel ... on smaller wheels the flexable belts last longer and I run them slower (3000 sfm or less) without breaking. I have epoxyed broken belts but the time and effort are just not worth a new belt in my oppinion. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Blythin Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Are the belts new? I had a whole bunch break on me over a short period of time, but they were old. Not old as in used, they were 'new', but were old stock that the store was selling off. I think the adhesive at the joint had dried out / weakened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 I've been having a similar problem. "New" but older belts (not really old, but sitting around for more than a year) pop at the seams very readily with no damage to the belt. In my case it seems the tape joint tears as opposed to the glue letting go. These are the last of my "big box" belts and I need to order from somewhere when I run out. I have a dozen or so left so this may last me a while, or not. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 I certainly would not try to duct tape the back of the belt and expect to not get my fingers torn up, or worse, when it lets go again. The cost of a new belt is a lot cheaper than a trip to the hospital. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WmHorus Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 Ya ive had them pop apart in my face and ive been lucky to not get a cut up face......ductape just to experiment....spare cash is hard to come by these days.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry W. Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Make sure that you install them to run in proper direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Blythin Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 I'm not personally keen on the idea of taping belts back together ... But if you must, I'd suggest using glass filament tape rather than duct tape. Filament tape has far greater shear strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Every belt that has let go bounces off the ceiling for me. It is rather amusing. (I guess I am lucky) Unlike some of you I have a small grinder that can only run 1x30 or 1x42 belts. I would be more concerned having a large belt come off. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 I grind a lot of blades, I do not break one belt every two or three years. I use three 2" x 72" grinders one with fixed speed and two are variable speed. Two of them have 8" contact wheels and one of the variable speed is set up for small wheels from half inch up to one and a half inches. I do not buy any cheap belts, In addition to the belts I listed in bp 0235 I have added the norton blaze belts in 80 grit and 100 grit. On the variable speed grinders I keep the speed moderate on 8 " and on the small wheel I use it slow for most and slower with the little wheel. I know i have some belts that are four or five years old and am never concerned about them breaking. However I live in an area that is moderate to warm and do not have to try to use frozen belts.........just sayin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Carnecchia Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 What kind of belts are you using? I wouldn't try taping them, just think about what happens to your finger when it brushes up against the belt, wouldn't want that in the face. I would call whoever you got them from and complain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 In my experience, quality belts from a known name seldom break at the joint unless they are many years old, but the joint glue in the discount house imports has a six month shelf life before they crumble. Use the busted belts with a wood block for hand finishing, and chalk it up to experience. A sheet metal guard around most of the sanding belt and drive components is cheap insurance: remove or do without at your own risk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 I use Norton belts on the shop grinder (2x48). I use 3m on the hand held (3x21). Have never had a belt separate at the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakwoodironworks Posted August 26, 2012 Share Posted August 26, 2012 I have had "new" belts come apart, but they had been hanging up in the shop for a while exposed to various temperature and humidity changes. I have started to put them in large plastic zip lock bags and close them up. So far it has worked very well. Also, I haven't been buying more belts than I can use in a reasonable length of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WmHorus Posted August 26, 2012 Author Share Posted August 26, 2012 Ya my belts sit outside in the shop and get exposed to a wide variety of temp changes so they probably just got messed up, some however rip from the belt grabbing the blade and getting thrown in between the platten and the surface of the grinder and ripping. The one i want to tape back together is a 400 grit 2x72 from the old grinder. I figure I can cut out the bad section and downsize it to fit the 48 inch one...but ya ill see about finding some of that glass filiment tape that was recommended and thanks for that advice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EGreen Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 my grinders are also 1x 42 an 1x30.I buy the "buy a dozen get a dozen free" from Industrial Abrasives.guess I am doin some thing wrong cause the only time I have any last a year is if they are not used. mostly Norton belts if I remember right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted August 27, 2012 Share Posted August 27, 2012 Norton and most of the other manufactureres make several different kinds of belts,, from wot I consider bottom line as far as for my work goes..Aluminum oxide. up to the blaze belts. And they are priced accordingly. If you are using belts on wood the AO's work fine. For metal not as well and for heat treated high carbon steel they do not last long enough for me. A lot of my work is just thta. Heat treated high carbon steel, I buy top of the line belts and overall save me a lot of time and money. There is not really a one belt fits all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted August 28, 2012 Share Posted August 28, 2012 I have a grizzly belt grinder with the 10" wheel. There's a guard on the idler wheel but nothing else. If the belt broke, would that guard stop the belt from whipping me? I've never had a belt break - it sounds really bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakwoodironworks Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 I also use a Grizzly 72" inch grinder and have had a few belts break while grinding. I haven't gotten hurt yet but it always could happen. Mostly, it just scares the crap out of you. It pays to be safe so I always wear safety glasses and a welders cap. Can't afford to get hit upside the head since I don't have any hair to cushion the impact!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Oakwood, when the belt broke did it go flying around? The belt seems like it'd lose speed fairly fast if it broke. I'm wondering if it whips around. Honestly I'm concerned that it'd take whatever I was grinding with it and smack me with that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakwoodironworks Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 They don't really whip around because of the way the belt grinder is configured for the belts to ride on the platen and contact wheels. The tension on the belt, provided by the idler wheel, just releases when the belt breaks. This causes the belt to loose contact with the drive wheel and it doesn't continue to spin with the belt grinder. I sure people have been hurt by this so it pays to be careful. I know it wakes you up when it happens !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WmHorus Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 I always got a loud reports when the belts break, and they usually have slowed down some when they came around on me since the breaks always occured at the platen and below. But ya scared the crap out of me anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 I have one of the original Ray Clontz grinders. This and many other homebrew units do not come equipped with a drive train or belt guard, and some folks remove them from commercial models. While the ease of belt and speed changes goes up, the chance that a drive belt or sanding belt will fly off and smack you goes up as well. A sheet metal guard will contain most of the problems. Two other items to consider: (1) Lack of a guard is an OSHA violation, if you get checked. (2) It may demonstrate a pattern of negligence on your part if it ever comes down to an insurance or legal issue when you or someone else gets hurt in your shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 Thanks Oakwood, maybe I'll fab up a sheet metal guard on the back half of the grinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciladog Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 There are many different types of joints that are used to make abrasive belts. Some last longer than others and the type of use will also have an effect on longevity. You should become familiar with the joint types and order your belts accordingly. Some are more expensive but last longer. Now with that being said, belt manufacturers will only warranty a belt for one year from the date that the joint adhesive or tape is activated since that is what the adhesive manufacturers will cover. I use to order 10 belts at a time until I had a box of zirconia belts with a taped butt joint all go bad. The belts would break in less than a minute of use. I called the manufacturer about defective joints and was told, “sorry but those belts were shipped to you more than a year ago.” The lesson was learned. I order all my belts with an overlap #2 (partial top-skived) joint and they almost never break. http://www.klingspor.com/abrasivebeltjoints.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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