newbieforge Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Hello everyone, I got back home from vacation yesterday, and this morning was back to my routine of browsing the online classifieds to see what kind of tools are selling in the area. This 409# anvil caught my eye: The seller wants $1150 or best offer for it. I currently have a ~125# Vulcan with substantially dinged up edges. This big one looks like it would be nicer to work with. I made a (low) offer of $1.35/lb, or ~$560... My reasoning: It is located far enough from me (350 miles) and shipping will be pricey. There is some damage to the anvil, it looks like someone used a torch on parts of it. Origin and age of the anvil are unknown. A brand new unscathed anvil of similar weight, from a reputable maker, can be purchased for not that much more than his price (e.g. the Ozark pattern for $1500, and possibly others of high quality but lesser weight). Was I out of line by making that offer? Can anyone identify the anvil, its maker and age? Your insights would be appreciated. Thanks & best regards Markus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 I would really want to know the result of the ball bearing test on it as it is a casting and so may very well be "all steel" but what alloy and was it properly heat treated afterwards? Your lowball price should protect you as even a soft steel anvil of that size can be quite useful in the shop. (also unlikely to win it at that price...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r smith Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 I did not think cast (steel or iron) anvils had tong grip holes in them?? I also would not lowball someone like you did without having green cash in front of the seller. If you are not serious enough tho look at it you can not be serious enough to buy it would be the thought of the seller so why would he even consider your offer?? The only thing I would ask without being there in person would be is the price firm? how much wiggle room do we have? That anvil looks very nice and not abused, with the exception of a few nicks around the edges I would almost say pristene. No swayback, mushrooming or dents... Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sask Mark Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 I'm pretty sure the seller paid $300 for the anvil 1 day before he listed it so he shouldn't be too offended by your offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r smith Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 ...the plot thickens... Nice to have some history on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob S Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 pretty nice looking anvil. not that bad even if you pay the asking price. it's better than money in the bank. anyone know who made it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 20, 2012 Share Posted August 20, 2012 Parting lines, the raised lettering. thick heel---suggests it's cast to me. Also "all steel" anvils are often cast---like the Swedish steel ones. You can cast in tong holes though that is more effort and is not generally seen on "cheap cast ones" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matei campan Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 the "chippings" doesn't look to me as real chips, but casting faults. I might be wrong, but from the pics they just look like bubbles rather than chipping patterns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unforgivun Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 The area where it says "All Steel Solid" looks to me like it may have been a plate that was welded onto the anvil and then cleaned up. If you look at the back of the anvil, it appears that the body was made, and then the feet were added on as well. All of this could be explained by it being cast of course. I'm just pointing out another viewpoint. As with anything. The simplest explanation is most probably the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloe01 Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Why does it have 625 stamped into it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Plate looks to me just like one attached to the positive for the mold; or pressed into the side of the mold after they removed the positive---both common methods of doing trademarks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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