Is it possible to make a wooded forge stand?

[Ridgewayforge]

I have drempt up a wood base forge pan, and lt it up tonight, only to have it catch fire. The forge comprised of a plywood base, a layer of mud/sand mix topped with a layer of firebricks.

The only part that started smouldering was around my Champion Whirlwind Firepot, which ignited the wood through radient energy.

Has anyone successfully accomplished a wood-base forge, and if so, how? Is it even possible?

[bigfootnampa]

Possible? Yes! There have been wood based forges pictured here on this forum. I'd have thought that you'd use an integral clayed firepot for a wood based forge but since you have it built this way it sounds as though you just need some more shielding around the firepot. Maybe a metal shield or some more masonry? Solid lumber is more reliable than plywood for this sort of use and thicker is better than thinner. It has been done and so you CAN do it... just maybe not perfect the first try.

[VaughnT]

Sounds like you let the wood get too close to the fire pot with your design. I would definitely open the hole in the plywood and build up the perimeter of the hole by screwing on more wood. The greater the surface area exposed to the heat, the more heat it will take to bring that area up to ignition temperature.

Then I would use metal roof flashing to wrap the edge of the plywood. But, I wouldn't trim that flashing, rather I would let it dangle down into the airspace below the forge so that its surface area could help to radiate the heat away.

[forger]

I have done it, it is possible. This is the poorman's way of doing things but I have seen many of them as well as I have used them for over 30 years. The firepot needs free air to be able to circulate around the sides to help cool it. I have my firepot supported in the opening by a couple of steel bars, again circulation helps slow the heat transfer. Next make a saturated solution of water and borax and coat the wood, let it dry and recoat a couple of times. This reduces the flammability of the wood, it will still burn (char) bur much slower. I think the best approach would be to measure and have someone cut a plate of 1/4" steel to fit and have the hole for the firepot cut in that. MUCH SAFER!!!
Good luck and keep a bucket of water handy, and make sure your fire is dead out!.
Mike
'

[Maillemaker]

what about a layer of sand?

[Ridgewayforge]

Let me clarify: It wasn't really the plywood that caught fire. It was the 2X6" support wood which began to char, right up where it meets the plyboard. Does anyone have a picture of their wood-framed forge?

It is the poor man's forge, but its what I had on hand, and right now I'm out a little bit of money due to spending a little bit over budget, so I needed something to hold the firepot so I can finish a commissioned peice.

[Ridgewayforge]

A Before picture. The tuyere sticks through the cut off beam in the forefront.

[John McPherson]

Cut a hole in an iron sheet, get a couple of bars or rods or angles that span the frame to hold it up, whatever.

If you can't hold your hand there, it is too hot for wood. In plain English: no wood within 4" of the firepot. 8" away would be better, 12" would be perfect. A firepot will get black to red hot in use, radiates heat energy, and the nearby wood will get drier and easier to ignite every time. And who looks under a forge when they quit work? Better safe than sorry.

At least one person who posts here has reported going down the road with flames coming out of their pickup bed, because some part of their demo forge was still smoldering when they put it away. It seems that the wind of highway speeds fanned the embers back to life. Much excitement, honking and hand waving from the other cars on the road until he pulled over and put it out.

[VaughnT]

What you need is to salvage the door off of a clothes washer/dryer, or the lid from a 55g drum. Cut a hole in the middle for the tuyere to pass through and then cut a hole in your plywood so that only the outside inch of the door/lid is supported on the plywood. Then move the fire pot back closer to the middle of the table to get it a bit farther away from support structure.

The whole re-do shouldn't take more than an hour to finish and get another fire going.

The borax/water solution does a great job of 'burnproofing' wood. It's not 100%, but it will make a difference, and it keeps the bugs off.

[ben11c]

Purchase furnace cement at Lowes or the Home Depot to make wooden forge stand

[tomhw]

Do a search for blacksmith

http://imagespublicdomain.wordpress.com/category/national-archives/

[David Einhorn]

Here are a couple of forges that are supported by wood.

1. On the left---A wooden "box" forge Pettersburg during the American Civil War. These forges were wood boxes with dirt lining the bottom. The air entered the side, which makes the forge a "side blast" forge.
2. The center photographs----A reproduction American Civil War wheeled Traveling Forge. The iron fireplace sits in a wooden frame/carriage. It too is a side blast forge. The iron fireplace has a 1/2" air space between the fireplace's box and the wood frame.
3. On the right-----A reproduction medieval wooden forge. Again essentially a side blast forge originally constructed from wood.