iamzeus Posted July 24, 2012 Share Posted July 24, 2012 I've been working my second knife for two days now. Compared to my first one, It went extremely fast. Haven't burned it since i figured out how much air i needed for my forge and i also knew how to hammer it to get the shape i wanted. Wanted to make a straight tanto knife but some curves just formed naturally and i liked how it looked even more. Kind off a wave shape to it. Forging is done so i just need to sand it and HT it and it'll be done. Can't wait to see how it turns out! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRobb Posted July 25, 2012 Share Posted July 25, 2012 Nice shape so far. Looking forward to seeing it finished. Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arqueroalpha Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Good forged shape, but you will must show it us finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamzeus Posted July 27, 2012 Author Share Posted July 27, 2012 I'm finishing the micarta handle right now. Won't be long. Picture will probably be up tomorow afternoon . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheoRockNazz Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 I like the integral guard, I hope that you continue the handle material into it, or side it with brass - entirely a personal preference though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamzeus Posted July 27, 2012 Author Share Posted July 27, 2012 Yeah its going to be covered with micarta as well. Would look weird otherwise lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 You do know how to deal with curving caused by forging in bevels right? For folks who do not: with the entire blade at forging temp set it with it's back along the anvil and *tap* along the future edge to drive it down straight. If it's already fairly thin on the edge you may want to do this with a chunk of wood instead of your hammer---will have to hit it harder but less likely to leave dents in the edge. Another method is to precurve the blank the other way and then as you hammer out the bevels the blade *straightens* learning how much to precurve it for what you are going to do is a function of *experience*! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamzeus Posted July 27, 2012 Author Share Posted July 27, 2012 Thanks for the tip. I'll try doing that next time i want to make a straight knife. I had no clue that was the cause. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamzeus Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 Finally finished! Wanted to finish it yesterday but i got delayed by work. Turned out great just as i thought. The blade still has alot of dents in it caused by my vise grips and my hammer blows. The buffer did polish them quite a bit but not completetly. I bought a pair of tongs and a new hammer from centaurforge.com, so hopefully that won't be an issue on my next knives. Now if only i could find some scrap steel for my next ones >_< Tired of buying lawnmower blades. They're expensive! Found a garage nearby that replaces and repairs springs from cars, trucks, rv's, big rigs etc... Going to give em a call tomorow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quint Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Ugg just saw your in Canada, not sure if NJsteelbaron ships up that way or how much it will be. May try and find out because he has good prices on things like 1075 or 1084. I know what really really helped me (im on my 3rd forged anything roughly) is getting a good face on the hammer. I faced mine and it was like night and day with the hammer marks. Just passing on info from others that has helped me alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loneforge Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Hey there nice work. When I do my rough forging I forge my point first then decide which side is going to be blade. Then I put a downward counterbend. I use two sections of pipe, lay the knife blade up and strike it lightly to make the counter bend. As i'm forging the bevels it tends to return to straight, as it is doing this that's when I start to work the distal taper from the spine. I find that I can control the straightness somewhat. Hope you understand what I meant by that......LOL. I am self taught, so some of the guys with more skills may have more insight! This works for me...may not for you! Cheers and happy smithing. Don't forget to make many more! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamzeus Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 JACKPOT!!! Went to the garage i mentioned and they gave me all that stuff for free :D No more worrying about where to get some steel. Lawnmower blades can go to hell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Yates Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Awesome Score now build some knives and other tools . Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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