Forging a Hammer

[Gundog48]

In my quest to make all the tools I'll be using myself, the question of forging a hammer came up. I've been using the book "Basic Blacksmithing" as a guide to forging most of my tools, but I was hoping for something a little more in depth. I understand the basics of starting off with a half-shaft, making the initial hole with an eye chisel, then opening it up with an eye drift, but I was hoping for something a little more in depth. Perhaps with reference to controlling the weight of the finished hammer or referencing a few more varieties. Also, a little more information on what is required would be useful, considering the heaviest hammer I own is a 2lb ball pein, so I'm unsure whether or not it is possible with what I have. I'd like to make a 3lb cross-pein and a ~10lb sledge. Any good books or resources you would recommend?

[Francis Trez Cole]

Brian Brazeal has many postings about hammers on this site

[brianbrazealblacksmith]

I do not make hammers by myself. If I were going to make them by myself, I would get a punch press to punch the hole and 2 power hammers to do the rest. If you are interested in producing hammers for the market, just give me a call and I can advise you on the details. If you are interested in making them just for your personal use, you should come by some time and watch us forge one to see what you are up against. There are also alot of pictures on this site that LDW, Lyle Wynn, has taken of other people making their first hammers. You should be able to get alot more information from those pictures than you'll ever get in any books. Then, if you have any questions, just ask.

[John B]

In my quest to make all the tools I'll be using myself, the question of forging a hammer came up. I've been using the book "Basic Blacksmithing" as a guide to forging most of my tools, but I was hoping for something a little more in depth. I understand the basics of starting off with a half-shaft, making the initial hole with an eye chisel, then opening it up with an eye drift, but I was hoping for something a little more in depth. Perhaps with reference to controlling the weight of the finished hammer or referencing a few more varieties. Also, a little more information on what is required would be useful, considering the heaviest hammer I own is a 2lb ball pein, so I'm unsure whether or not it is possible with what I have. I'd like to make a 3lb cross-pein and a ~10lb sledge. Any good books or resources you would recommend?

Whilst a laudable quest, at a newcomers stage it is not really practical, you will need some experience in basic forging techniques first, and a working understanding of heat treating metals.

We are having a toolmaking course at Westpoint on May 12th and 13th, see www.blacksmithsguild.com courses page.

Here are some items made on a previous course.

The hammer is about 3lbs



Trying to do all these things on your own is extremely trying and can be dangerous, a little guidance will help tremendously, try to get a mentor locally if you can, and good luck in your efforts.

[Gundog48]

Thanks! I thought it would be way beyond my capacity. It was a future project anyway, once I gained more experience. Unfortunately I wouldn't be able make the course as it is right in the middle of my GCSE exams, but I'll keep my eye open for opportunities during the summer. I remember seeing someone make a cross-peen hammer out of steel billets of different length to make the profile of the hammer which were then stacked to make a very thin hammer that looked like it had been stretched taller out of proportion.Then the billets were forge welded together to make a solid block with the rough shape of the hammer which could then be refined. Is that a technique you use?

[Frank Turley]

I've made a few straightforward cross peen hammers out of old 18 wheeler axles reduced to square stock on the trip hammer. I have found that 1 1/2" to 1 5/8" square x about 4 1/4" will give a 2 1/2 to 3 pound hammer. you'll be forging the peen taper, which will give more length to the finished hammer head. Punching and drifting the eye is done near the beginning of the forge work to make sure it is centered. There is much more to it, especially the heat treatment. I have treated the axles as 1045 steel, water hardening. Fortunately, I currently have a capable striker.

[John B]

Thanks! I thought it would be way beyond my capacity. It was a future project anyway, once I gained more experience. Unfortunately I wouldn't be able make the course as it is right in the middle of my GCSE exams, but I'll keep my eye open for opportunities during the summer. I remember seeing someone make a cross-peen hammer out of steel billets of different length to make the profile of the hammer which were then stacked to make a very thin hammer that looked like it had been stretched taller out of proportion.Then the billets were forge welded together to make a solid block with the rough shape of the hammer which could then be refined. Is that a technique you use?

It is not beyond your capacity to make hammers on your own, maybe beyond your current capability, but that will increase as you progress.

There are many ways to make hammers, and many more versions of hammer heads,

As to stacking and forging to make a pattern welded hammer, whilst that technique may look impressive and be a good exercise in forge welding, it is not a technique I would normally use.

Practically and for general use, I would go for using a suitable tool steel from the outset, this can be heat treated to the necessary hardness for the tools' use and will give many years service, or even modify existing hammer heads.

[ianinsa]

It is not beyond your capacity to make hammers on your own, maybe beyond your current capability, but that will increase as you progress.

, or even modify existing hammer heads.

This is about as good advice as you can get! And probably cheaper too if you check out car boot sales..

[a62rambler]

The first metal hammer was made by a guy using a rock on a stick. He probably never had a day of school, certainly couldn't type and probably couldn't read or write. He didn't have access to ANSI certified steel and heat treating wasn't even invented yet. He was probably working with iron he got from a bloom that he made himself or more properly bronze that he made himself. Hundreds of years later a different guy used a bronze hammer to make an iron one but why spoil the beauty of an idea with a history lesson. I say go for it! Why not? If you fail, you'll still learn from the experience and know what to do next time. The only regrets in life are the chances we didn't take! When you succeed you can use it to hit anyone that says you can't and ask them if they felt real pain or if it was just imaginary since according to them it couldn't be done. :D You posted it was something to do when you had more experience. I say experience is what you get from trying and failing until you try and finally succeed! Have fun trying and if you succeed just remember I said you could and don't hit me with the hammer. ;)

[rthibeau]

I make hammers by myself and although I now use a flypress to punch the eye, I've done it by hand hammering a punch and then drifting it to finished size. To make a 3lb hammer head (not counting the weight of the handle) use a weight chart to determine the length of the size material being used that's needed (add a little to the length to compensate for material loss in making the pein) then make the hole and put a stick in it. There ya go. Simple to do once you've done it enough times to make it come out right. Have fun.

[Francis Trez Cole]

I to slit and drift my hammers solo by hand I make 3-4-5 # hammers I do use my power hammer to shape them but the rest is done by hand. It all goes back to the basics Taper,twist,bend, spread,up set, cut, punch,and weld once you can do the major 8 it is up to your comfort level. if you can punch a hole in 1/2" steel you can punch a hole in 2 1/2" metal it just takes a little more effort