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I Forge Iron

Blade composition issues?


Robert Yates

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I am working on a Blade composition with these metals and having som issues for forging and tempering . can some one help me out a bit . please

Steel Combination for the Patten of Damascus:
Material = Pure Nickel, L6 Steel ,203E, 52100 (high-carbon chromium alloy steel), 50crv4 (Spring Steel),
**Note**I would like to Discuss the Blend of steels used for the Best Options available. even considered adding ...
304ss

Sam

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Best for forging and heat treating is to use steels that have similar requirements: forging temps and heat treating processes. Mixing ones with wild differences cause problems as which one(s) do you follow?

Also pure Ni can act as a carbon migration barrier, are you allowing for that in your mix?

What exactly are your problems and your current methods? I'm assuming you are using them for pattern welding as you mention "composition".

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Yes I do follow you !

I am wanting some one to do a 30 Blade Finish product for me as I am no longer able to do much forging for my self . I am now disabled and can not do so .

although I am a Military Vet I seek no special treatment just some one to work with me to produce my blade so I can finish them out .if any one can help me out let me know please !


Sam

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why mix so many steels? You are asking for problems in the forging and in the heat treat. a few of them will look almost the same anyway, none of these steels will be very dark? Where did you get this idea? 203E, nickel and 304 are very shiny but wont harden, using too much of these is bad for blades because of little to no carbon, L-6 likes to air harden, 52100 is a bit red hard, and no idea about the 50crv4

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You can buy billets of pattern welded steel, both carbon and stainless, Makers with a long standing history of producing repeatable patterns that are unbelievable. One of the best is Devon Thomas. If you get someone to make steel that fils it will be you that is remember that if the blade fails it will only be you that will be remembered as the maker.

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I am a DV, Army service 1988 to 2009 ,while I did want to let the folks here know that I did not want folks simply agreeing to help due to that . I have Nuro issues that keeps me from being able to forge any more of my own blades . the concept of the blend is something i was working on for a blade . Yes the nickel would not temper of harden well by its own I know that the 50 crv 4 is a High end Spring steel yet may be inferior to others I was looking to achieve a 5 steel blend for a knife that would look Wicked and be usable in the field .

Why 5 I dont know if it has ever been done . I am looking for help to finish ground and HT'ed? 30 pieces / blades in my pattern these would be for me to finish out with grips 1911 type .
I am open to changing my blend of steels but would like attempt to keep it at a high end of steels for function, durability, cutting edge , as well as retention of edge .

Sam

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I am sure there is someone that would attempt those blades for you..but you may expect to pay high end prices..For field use I prefer to use staniless steel as it solves the maintenance and rust issues almost entirely. If I were to pick a layered blade it would not include pure nickel as any of the layers. I use that for high end knves that could certainly see field use but not likely. And for a few years I carried a pocket knife with my layered steel blade including pure nickel. It worked fine for use but the striking contrast faded with wear from usage. Mu choice for all arouind looks and performance is a billet welded up to about 200 layers of 1084 and 15N20, Great contrast and each of the steels on their own are good for making blades, and as was said above the heat treat is same for both. i am not familiar with the 50 crv 5 steel so I looked it up. For me it is on the low end of carbon content that I prefer for blades. Good luck of getting youir blades made.

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Sam not to belabor this however just doing shop math and not knowing if the layers are all the same thickness. ( I am not a math major!) That carbon content in that blade is I figured it out roughly is under .50 That is a bit lower than I like for a blade. However the most important thing to keep in mind is that was yours and you are pleased with it. I hope you work out a way to get your blades.

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