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Propane Tank Problem


KTB

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I have a small 2 burner gas forge connected to 2 bbq size propane tanks piggy backed together to prevent freeze up.. Just recently it seems one tank or another won't pass propane until I fiddle with the on off valve for 10 or 15 minutes, cracking it open slowly while the forge seems to run ( somewhat ) off the other tank. Do new tanks have some sort of safety valve in them limiting the about of pressure released or something? It seems once I get both flowing everything is fine.

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There is a flow valve, an overflow protection device, and a valve to make sure the fitting is hooked up properly....and the hand wheel.

If the tanks are in good order, and your system doesn't leak, then turning the tanks on with the forge off first, then turning the forge on should work just fine.

If it is only one tank that acts up then swap it out for a different one.

Phil

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Yeah, there's a leak safety device in new tanks in the 20-40lb range and you have to open them slowly or they shut off. It's to prevent bad things happening if say a hose gets cut. Unless there are special circumstances, say you live on a farm or are a commercial user you can't even get the old type tanks filled. A 100lb tank has the old style valve and isn't likely to freeze unless you live here. -20f this morning. <sigh>

Frosty The Lucky.

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I had a similar problem with a tank I have had for a couple of years.. one day the gas just stopped flowing.. messed with it and messed with it and it would flow again.. and a little while later it would cease again. Replaced the tank.. same thing. Went to the local propane dealer and replaced the tank.. same thing. Then one day I backed off the valve about a full turn and no more problems. Upon reflection what I think happened is: I had read that with the valving, one was required to open the valve slowly to full open to ensure continous gas flow. Must have been the engineering design vs. practical application. I still open it fully but back off a full turn and no further problems.

Oh, one other thing worth mentioning: I charge the propane line by ensuring the needle valve to the burner is closed, the regulator is at my desired setting, and the ball valve between tank and regulator is closed, then open the tank, slowly open the ball valve, then the needle valve and light her up. This ensures the gas flow is low enough to not trigger the internal valve closing.

Hmmm, you are down in my neck of the woods... maybe you got my old tanks!

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I had a simila problem on a single tank using as a fuel souce for my Mr Heater. I neglected to close the valve on the heater and it wouldn't get any fuel even after shutting down and retrying. I had to closed the heater valve, unhook the hose, re connect, slowly open tank valve THEN start the heater. worked fine. Just a learning curve ;)

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Randy, That is something I never considered, I never open valves and leave them on the hard stop, I always leave them slightly off the stop (except 1/4 turn ball valves) now I am usually only talking 1/8 to 1/4 turn (gate valves in a water system can erode if left partially closed, and this amount is fine) I have broken handwheels off propane exchange tanks, (I check all exchanges before I accept them, the fitting valve prevents any gas from escaping) I have also broken water valves that were jammed tight on the hard stop.

I have had a propane flow valve close on me because I left the forge on when I opened the tank though.

Phil

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