Hey guys I've got this old Wilton vice that has been saved from a junk yard but it's been seized up for over a year now. We've been soaking it for a year now with PB blaster and it's still not moving. Anyone have any other ideas? Maybe dunking it in a big thing of oil or something? I don't know. Just seems like a nice vice to just scrap out. Thanks for any info you can provide.



Chad

Pics? Size?

I don't have a picture of the exact one that I have but it looks just like this one...




I'll try to get a picture of the one I have when I go out there today. It's in the barn, I just have to get over there and take a pic of it.

i sold a engine transporter c1910 cast wheels and wrought axels been in the weather for years and years seized solid.the guy said he de seized engines, machines, axels ect by soaking in diesel and molasses.i have seen car restorers use 1part molasses to 9 parts water for rust removal on body parts (submerged for two weeks).worth a try i don't know?? has any one else herd of diesel and molasses to de seize

Sounds like it might work lol. It's def worth a try though Mat, it's not doing me any good in the condition it's in now anyway.

I spoke to an old timmer who said that they used anti-freeze, then tapped the item. The vibration would get the anti-freeze to migrate back into the threads. Might try turning it up on end so that fluid and grit can migrate down and hopefully out. With the sleeve the problem may not beeing reached by your fluids. Soaking may help. Judicious heat might also help.

I was at the edge of despair when Blaster, liquid wrench, etc. all failed. Kroil worked. Or maybe the combination of all that other stuff helped the Kroil. Who knows. Check the Kroil web site. They claim it will penetrate in a millionth of an inch. Have to order it on line. Not in the stores around here anyway. Good luck.

CLR - Buy it at the store. It removes rust. I'd recommend a good soaking.

You could take the end cap off and soak it from the back end of it. The cap is made like a grease cap on the front end of a 2x4 car or truck. It also has to pins towards the back end of it that could be knocked out and help remove the inner workings of the vice. It's a threaded tube with ears that fits into slots. Well my Wilton 600s is made that way.

Hope this helps.

Scott

Not sure if it's the threads or the slide clearences that are at issue here.

If you can get some heat on the body (rosebud) or the thread box, apply bees wax and let it melt into the clearences. It is well know to free up close tolerence seized studs.

Another option is if you have access to an ultrasonic tank for cleaning parts.

Good luck and Merry Christmas,
Peter

Time is your friend here. Can you take off the back cap and drop in a bucket to soak?

Once I wanted to restore a sewing machine that was exposed to the elements for several years and I was recommended to forget it submerged inside diesel for a couple of months. Never tried this solution, but I was told that it would un-seize the parts.

I think that the best solution would be Electrolytic Rust Removal , you can see an example here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5I5WBG5HPw There are also lots of other examples on the net and on Youtube. I suppose you have to use a big volume of solution for several days because you have a lot of steel on a vice. Check the electrolityc rust removal every few hours, just in case the process finished sooner than your forecast or if the solution is too dirty and needs to be replaced.

Good luck