Steve Sells Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Most people asking these type of questions here do not have degrees nor any real experience in metal. Add in your statement of being a total beginner in HT. ( with out any mention of other related experience) then after all this you mention that English is not your native language.... I was transplanted to Weisbadden Germany when I was 15, I did not speak any German at the time, I had to learn very fast.(I do not remember much now) I will apologize for coming down so hard. If you read through the rest of this forum, you may notice my I spend a lot of time attempting to help others. But also note I have had to deal with a lot of childish people that do not want information, only justification, then complain when their methods do not work, and want to blame us anyway. So I tend to get trigger happy when certain issues come up . People need to learn how things in H/T work, and it is easier to eliminate as many variables as possible so the new maker can focus on as few elements at a time as possible. Making their learning simpler as well, then adding in more as they progress. Its like starting with Calculus before learning Algebra. That is why we start with simple steels, that require simple methods of HT. to focus in the transformation and warpage issues, then add in high alloy solutions that have more issues to address. That is why we attempted to steer you away from that alloy and get some simple carbon steel to begin. Even many advanced people hire out high alloy's for HT because of so many things that can go wrong. that is way I got upset about your insistence of using this alloy now. Before I forget to mention it, your design does look nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Please don't take my point about cryo vs. cold treatment as critical; it was intended to be informative, partly because I realize English isn't your native language, and partly because you're new to blades. The knife looks pretty good to me. You said you're doing everything by hand; did you use files and stones to put in the bevels? I notice what looks like a little bit of rounding where the plunge starts. I can't seem to get that perfectly square -- yet -- even with a guide for the file to ride against. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Will the end of the tang open beer bottles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Vir my oog lyk baie goed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Steve, when will you be asking Thomas if you can borrow his 'Curmudgeon' title? I aint I just stole it :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Nicely done! I have read that some people will quench in the foil as a means to prevent surface discoloration...but the material choice may be part of that consideration. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HennieL Posted December 13, 2011 Author Share Posted December 13, 2011 Steve: apology accepted Matt: I certainly did not take your point on cryo vs cold as critical - you are correct, and I appreciate your advice Will the end of the tang open beer bottles? Thomas: Now that's a thought It's actually a "gut hook", located in an unusual place. With it being on the back of the knife, one does not have to turn the knife around when skinning, and the added levarage of pulling down with one's fist, rather than with one's wrist, should make it a lot safer and easier to use - at least that's the theory... time will tell.The knife looks pretty good to me. You said you're doing everything by hand; did you use files and stones to put in the bevels? Thanks again, Matt. Yes, I did everything by hand, using a Tormek wet grinder. Their knife jig is pretty useless for making curved bevels, so ended up with the knife held by hand to grind the bevels. After trying various other home-made jigs and guides, none of which worked satisfactory, I ended up using a little laser levelling device to shine a line across the wheel to act as a guide, and just tried to keep the knife edge on this line - worked very well. Hennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 It took me a second to figure out what you mean, but yes, that sounds like a pretty good idea for hollow grinding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Sounds like using your laser guide is a good "cheat" of sorts. Provide good visual references to make freehand grinding more accurate. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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