Trip Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Just last week my family moved to our new farm, and thankfully it already has a shop built!!! I have always had a steel (coal fired) forge, but this time I am wanting to have a masonry forge in the shop, and I now NOTHING about masonry forges except that I like the looks of them. hahaha I am wanting to make it out of regular concrete blocks and then face it with stone. How should I build the side draft hood???? What size forge should I make for every day blacksmithing (not knife making)???? How big of a flu do I need??? Any and all idea's are welcome!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramsberg Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 These links may help.http://www.beautifuliron.com/thecoal.htmhttp://www.beautifuliron.com/thecoal1.htmhttp://www.beautifuliron.com/thecoal2.htmhttp://173.201.227.192/docs/Blacksmithing/Forge/Homestead_Forge_And_Fabricate_Your_Own_Hardware_1995.pdf There are also a number of old Blacksmithing books scanned by Google that give the how and why of forge manufacture. Caleb Ramsby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 As I recall there is a fellow in central OH that makes bang-up masonry forges. He did the one for SOFA I was told---you might contact SOFA and see who it was and ask him for details on how to do it. I can ask on the MOB (Mid Ohio Blacksmiths) mailing list for his name/e-mail address if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted November 16, 2011 Author Share Posted November 16, 2011 Hey ThomasPowers that would be GREAT if you could get me his name and email address for me. I would REALY appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramsberg Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Here are links to two blacksmithing books on Google. This first one has a few different designs for brick forges, ones that work.http://books.google.com/books?id=phgLAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Blacksmith&hl=en&ei=_wjETva7NvG02AWovPiPBQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CDUQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=Blacksmith&f=false This second one has a few also, but more of an industrial design, still usefull information though.http://books.google.com/books?id=RWkUAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA3&dq=Blacksmith&hl=en&ei=_wjETva7NvG02AWovPiPBQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=11&ved=0CGcQ6AEwCg#v=onepage&q=Blacksmith&f=false Caleb Ramsby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 The key is to make a masonry table with the firepot set just in front of the opening of the chimney. Not within the chimney supports and not too far from the opening of the chimney.... just in front of the opening. The size of the table, firepot, and chimney/flue is the same as a metal one, you make these decisions based upon what you plan on making, and how much space you have to devote to the forge without crowding your other tools. As with other forges, the forge is located a sufficient distance away from the wall and other possible combustibles so as not to cause a fire. So you are making a masonry *table*, and one way to do that is to construct temporary wooden forms to support each of the arches until the masonry sets. That way you have access to the underside of the forge table, and the firepot and the firepot's cleanout. Once the chimney foundation and side walls are set, you can place a sheet of metal across the table's supports, with an opening for the firepot, and then you can: 1) use the metal table-top as is 2) use the metal table-top to cast a concrete table surface for the firepot to sit into, or 3) other masonry surface constructed on top of the metal sheet. For whatever table surface you plan, you will need to take into account the thickness of the finished table top and the finished location of the firepot so that the finished firepot is located just outside the opening of the finished chimney opening. I really enjoy using masonry forges with a bellows, as I find it very relaxing. For maximum use of the forge, and minimum smoke, location of the firepot in relation to the chimney opening is crucial, and the flue needs to be of sufficiently large diameter. Just my opinion, mileage may vary. ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 I do love working with a masonry forge. I've thought about just taking my metal forge/ chimney setup and facing it with brick. I would cut the legs of the forge table so the working height would remain the same. But then again, I'm not in a place (yet!) for a masonry forge as it shares space with the riding mower and various attachments. Perhaps I should just build another shed, or an addition to the current one..... Not my place, but a great forge. You might be able to get some ideas from the pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Jeremiah Young is the name of the mason I was talking about. My message is being passed to him but as I recall he is working away from home right now and so it would be the weekend before he might get it---and I'm at a 3 day demo this weekend. Check back Monday...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SReynolds Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 ummmmm.......................masonry (North East Ohio) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SReynolds Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 (edited) .............more pics Masonry Please note; this forge has a fan (blower) to "suck" the smoke. I understand that forges have issues with draft....some more than others. There are hundreds of designes and much of that is related to the building it's used in. This shop also has a vented ceiling, much like that of a maple sugar house. THis allows the smoke to vent out of the building. Some forges/buildings use exhaust fans and NO flue pipe whatsoever. THis shop can become pretty durn smokey if I don't maintain contol of the fire. The coke is pretty much smoke free, but there is always a tad of smoke from the surrounding green coal. I also use a portable forge indoors, that is in no way connected to any flue/exhaust/duct work. The smoke simply rises to the ceiling and out the ridge vent. I seriously doubt that you'd get any one flue to draw enough to capture all the smoke, all day long, under all atmospherical conditions. Edited November 17, 2011 by SReynolds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SReynolds Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 This is a bit extream and only done for a photo op. However, it can literally become this bad if I don't watch the fire. I have had students rake green coal into the fire and this is the result. My point: even with a ridge vent AND the flue blower, I have smoke related issues!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 This is a bit extream and only done for a photo op. However, it can literally become this bad if I don't watch the fire. I have had students rake green coal into the fire and this is the result. My point: even with a ridge vent AND the flue blower, I have smoke related issues!!That is a cool picture! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kendall P Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 You need to increase the height of your flu outside - also consider a different approach to a hood over the intake? with a purpose built monster like that - you shouldnt have any smoke issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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