Steven Bronstein Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 I have a 100# Fairbanks/Dupont Hammer and want to remove the drive pulley. It is keyed with 4 set screws (2 on inside and 2 on outside). I have loosened them all and made a puller with a porta power. I expected it to come off easily and ended up cracking a piece of the pulley lip off and did not budge the pulley at all. i cannot see anything holding the pulley in place. it is a well used and oiled machine. am I missing something and does anyone have a replacement pulley, just in case.... Any suggestions? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Try heating it with a torch around the hub first...If push comes to shove it will need to be pressed out...The chip can be fixed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Bronstein Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 I think the pulley is cast so I was concerned that heating in the middle might crack it, of course I cracked the rim anyway but I can still use it. I can try to bring the whole piece up to heat together. Would I want to pull when it is hot or will it break the connection when hot and then pull easier when it cools off? Thanks for the response Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Do you really need to remove it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Local heating around the hub won't crack it unless it's really cold.....I would sat it should be hot enough for spit to bubble or a little hotter.......I think Thomas is wise to ask if you really need to remove it......Why does it need come off?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 I want to remove the drive pulley. As others are asking "Do you NEED to remove it"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew T Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 I've pressed off the crank plate off a 50 LG and a 100lb Bradley, they both took all of a 20 ton press. I had to drill holes around the perimeter of the shaft and use heat before they came. I'm not surprised you broke the flange, although I would think the belt pulley would come off easier than a crank plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 I took apart a 75 lb fairbanks hammer to replace the main shaft a few years ago. The drive pulley came off with little trouble. It was only held on by a couple of set screws If I remember correctly. Check that it has not been messed with in some way. Some one could have welded it to the shaft or there could be a set screw with the head sheared off flush to the casting covered under grime and grease. Look for perhaps a dowel pin. It also could be that it is seized to the shaft try a penetrating oil of some sort. It often takes days before it works it self in all the way. There is a parts diagram on the New England blacksmiths site http://www.newenglandblacksmiths.org/power_hammer_info.htm Worst case cut the shaft, its just cold rolled steel and not super inexpensive to replace. You can even use a torch because it wont cut cast iron but will cut steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew T Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 I was a little hasty with my response, I forgot you don't have split bearings, so you have to pull or push the pulley off with the shaft still mounted on the machine. I agree with southshore's advice, keep cleaning and looking. It seems like it had to originally be a slip fit for the builder to be able to assemble it. Here's a link to guy who striped and reassembled his Dupont/Fairbanks, there is a photo of the bare shaft on this pagehttp://www.bladeforu...manual.../page4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Bronstein Posted October 25, 2011 Author Share Posted October 25, 2011 thanks for all of the help. I need to pull the pulley because the internal brake, which sits inside of the pulley, has worn and i wanted to fix it. I made a mechanical brake to go around the fly wheel so i could keep working while I fix the brake. I thought there might be a hidden pin holding it in place. don't see anything. I think I might drill and tap two holes on the hub so I can attach a puller directly to the hub, heat and maybe it will go then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 CB blaster is a good product for eating rust and sand the shaft with emery cloth rust can hang you up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Steve B.- Seems like there should be a way to pull out the brake without removing the pulley? It's been a while since I looked at that end of our hammer but I'll give it a look at work tomorrow, maybe I'm remembering the mechanism wrong. Seems like you could run some bolts into the ends of the brake and squeeze the brake smaller by pulling the bolts together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Bronstein Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 Judson, thanks for checking in. On my hammer, the brake is shaped like a split ring with the opening at 12 o'clock. I can get it free of the pulley but not get it around the drive shaft to remove. If you can figure out an alternative that would be great. let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 There is an easy way to fix the brake without taking the hammer apart. Where the ring is split you can add shims, basically a cap on either end of the split ring. The shim can be a piece of steel bent at 90 deg with a hole for a screw. Drill and tap a hole on the face of the split ring and bolt on the shim. My hammer was fixed in this way it worked like a champ. Alternately you could build up the end of the cam that pushes the split ring apart to give it more throw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Bronstein Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 Tim, I have the shims and added material to the cam. The face of the brake itself has gotten worn enough that I am worried about it breaking. I did think about leaving it in place and building up the face of the brake with braze but thought it would be too hard to true up in place. I didn't expect it to be so hard to remove the pulley. I am still thinking I should persevere, and build up the brake off the machine so I can turn it back to round. Maybe ginding it back to round would not be so hard while still on the machine. Does that make sense. Hi to Rachel. Steve Bronstein Blackthorne Forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy Traylor Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 Try soaking it in Kroil. Probably not available locally so order it online. I have had it free up things that Blaster, Liquid wrench, etc. would not budge. Good luck. Tommy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.