October 20, 201114 yr I have had this anvil for quite a while. I didn't know what to do with it but I sure didn't want it to go to the scrapper. Can it be fixed? What would I need to do to make it usable? Could I weld a plate on the broken area? Thanks!
October 20, 201114 yr Yes, I suppose this anvil can be repaired. Two possibilities I can see, one by forge welding a plate of tool steel, by the way, very difficult procedure; second possibility, hard facing the anvil by arc welding using specific electrodes. I do not know if you can lay multiple beds of hard facing welding until you reach the height of the remaining bit of original plate. There are people here that can give you a more precise answer. Check these videos
October 20, 201114 yr Yes that anvil can be repaired. But to be fair it really needs to be done right. I am not a fan of hard facing rods for an anvil face, That anvil needs resurfaced and a new face plate forge welded on. That is not done in most home shops and certainly not by the weak of heart or the inexperienced. Ken Mankel I believe is retired and his shop was set up to do this and it was done right. I believe Mankel horseshoing supplies is still in business and if you google them they can discuss this task with you. There are other folks that can do this also. I do not know wot the charge would be but I suggest you be sitting down for the price quote. In fact it may be a good way to go to retire that anvil and seek one that is useable. Try and make sure that any advice you get about this is from someone that has used and repaired anvils. I have repaired about a dozen anvils and would not ever attempt to forge weld a new face plate on one in my home shop.
October 20, 201114 yr Yes it can be fixed. If you were to try and fix it it would be for you to learn not to save money/time. Some groups do anvil repair clinics from time to time. If you choose not to repair it remember that you have about 130 lbs of wrought iron there, do NOT scrap it. Rob
October 20, 201114 yr Well, I'd probably machine the middle part flat and cut a dovetail in it. Make a 6" long die and wedge it in. That would give a reasonable working area. Then weld up around the hardy with 7018 to make it usable. That way you end up with nice heavy anvil with a good working surface, a usable hardy hole and a nice horn. What else does a chap need to have a good time?
October 20, 201114 yr an other option is to find a old folk lift tang and cut it to fit and weld it on. put a piece of aluminium in the harder hole and weld around it before welding on the tang clean the face and bevel the edge and do a good deep fillet weld.
October 20, 201114 yr Author Hmmmmmmmmmmm................... seems this one is just gonna keep on sitting I guess. I do have a good one to use but I just wanted to see what the experts would say. Thanks! Mike
October 20, 201114 yr an other option is to find a old folk lift tang and cut it to fit and weld it on. put a piece of aluminium in the harder hole and weld around it before welding on the tang clean the face and bevel the edge and do a good deep fillet weld. Something that thick would be nice, especially because you have no way to bond the surfaces like in a forge-welded plate. Have to machine the anvil flat first though.
October 21, 201114 yr 6" x 3 " x 12" forklift tine, 63 lbs. I will U.S. MAIL to anywhere in USA. $ 100.00 www. arnoldbr@ cox. net
October 21, 201114 yr Author 6" x 3 " x 12" forklift tine, 63 lbs. I will U.S. MAIL to anywhere in USA. $ 100.00 www. arnoldbr@ cox. net Thanks for the offer rusty but I think I will concentrate on getting the good stuff I have set up so I can hammer some metal. ( maybe later though.....) Mike
October 22, 201114 yr FWIW, were's what I did with one that was in similar shape (mine had more face left and the hardy hole was intact, though): http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/16234-anvil-repair-on-the-cheap/page__st__20. If nothing else, it might make a nice surface for hot cutting. Horn is in good shape too, so it's still useful in some ways as-is.
October 22, 201114 yr Yes, that anvil can be repaired, but like others said it is somewhat of a difficult task. The hard surfacing and build-up wire will set you back a bit. I always have used Rob Grunter's method and the anvils I do all ways come out fine. My last anvil I repaired was just like that one only mine was missing the heel.
October 22, 201114 yr Why not get a beveled strip of suitable tool steel a couple inches wide with thickness to match the remaining section of face, cut it to length and weld the strips on the anvil? 2 fat welds along the sides and 1 down the center of the anvil face. With a suitable gap between the beveled metal strips to ensure enough weld is adhering to the anvil, in my mind it seems like it would be an adequate repair, while saving a little grinding time and expensive hard facing rods.
October 23, 201114 yr Why not get a beveled strip of suitable tool steel a couple inches wide with thickness to match the remaining section of face, cut it to length and weld the strips on the anvil? 2 fat welds along the sides and 1 down the center of the anvil face. With a suitable gap between the beveled metal strips to ensure enough weld is adhering to the anvil, in my mind it seems like it would be an adequate repair, while saving a little grinding time and expensive hard facing rods. Not a bad idea. One problem right now is that the anvil is far from flat. Nice big dual-shield To really burn it in and sneak into a narrow slot in the middle.
October 24, 201114 yr Author Lots of great ideas here. Thanks everyone. I do want to make this anvil useful. It's definitely not going to the scrapper!
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