wall hook

[Aljeter]

I think I might be getting the hang of making wall hooks. I think I should shorten the sharpened end by about 1/2" or so.

[Willis]

It looks good to me. With the long end it could be used in the smokehouse or shop to hang heavy items.

[Drewed]

Mmm... Drive hooks....(insert Homer Simpson drooling noise)

The sharp part looks fine. These are meant to go into ruff lumber, like barn posts, not 2x4's! If would actually bend the spike part down just a tad, they hold better and are actually easier to hit. Also you will want to work on "sharping" up the bend between the hook and the spike. Try to upset the metal a little there so you can get a sharper corner. That will make pounding them in easier.

[Aljeter]

thanks for the advise i will work on that.

[SmoothBore]

From a functional perspective, ... making the "point" too sharp, and thinly tapered, ... will have a tendency to split the wood.

The point should crush some of the wood fibers, ... not wedge them apart.

A "cut" nail, or a flat "masonry" nail, would be a good example to follow.


Back when Dinosaurs still roamed the Earth, an old time Cabinet Maker taught me the trick of blunting the point of a nail, to prevent splitting the wood.

This is particularly useful, when nailing into old, dry, hard wood.


.

[ThomasPowers]

I advise customers to predrill a small hole if their going into dimensional lumber. Of course all lumber is DRY out here and prone to splitting.

[pkrankow]

A nail about 1 1/2 inch long is pretty good for hanging a lot of things. For little cup-sized or single pan-sized hooks you can get away with as little as 1/2 -3/4 inch (based on the rather old pot rack in my house, which I occasionally have to reinsert a drive hook into)

Phil