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I Forge Iron

wall hook

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Mmm... Drive hooks....(insert Homer Simpson drooling noise)

The sharp part looks fine. These are meant to go into ruff lumber, like barn posts, not 2x4's! If would actually bend the spike part down just a tad, they hold better and are actually easier to hit. Also you will want to work on "sharping" up the bend between the hook and the spike. Try to upset the metal a little there so you can get a sharper corner. That will make pounding them in easier.

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From a functional perspective, ... making the "point" too sharp, and thinly tapered, ... will have a tendency to split the wood.

The point should crush some of the wood fibers, ... not wedge them apart.

A "cut" nail, or a flat "masonry" nail, would be a good example to follow.

Back when Dinosaurs still roamed the Earth, an old time Cabinet Maker taught me the trick of blunting the point of a nail, to prevent splitting the wood.

This is particularly useful, when nailing into old, dry, hard wood.


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A nail about 1 1/2 inch long is pretty good for hanging a lot of things. For little cup-sized or single pan-sized hooks you can get away with as little as 1/2 -3/4 inch (based on the rather old pot rack in my house, which I occasionally have to reinsert a drive hook into)


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