If you solder the tip in expect that it will not stay past a test period if you use soft solder. Maybe a little longer if you use silver solder. When you use a gasser there is an air fuel mix that flows threough the plumbing. When you shut the flow off heat will back up the venturi plumbing and heat the area where the tip is. And yes I have had a soldered tip fall out.( It seemed like a good idea to begin with) My tips are mig tips are now threaded in place and stay put.

Robert, you have a few choices, especially with brass pipe. You can swage the end of the brass pipe down, drill it out and tap it. This can be done by hand with a hammer gently tapping it to close it in (SOR) be careful to not make sharp corners, and you may need to heat and anneal if you need to work it much.

You may also be able to swage it down with a tubing flare tool or a nicopress swage, close it down, rotate 1/4 turn close it again, and after a few times doing this checking with a drill bit as a gage it should close down. You are just using the clamp portion.

You can solder the contact tip into the end of the tubing

You can get a fitting to put on the end of the pipe to drill and tap.

There are choices, limited more by creativity than anything else.

Phil

Phil, sorry that I haven't responded to you sooner. Thank you for all of your suggestions, as they have really helped. My burner is now complete. I still need to acquire a regulator, 8' high pressure LP hose, and a POL. My forge has been built at a glacial pace but the end result will be better than what I have now.

Rich, Thank you for the reminder about what happens when you shut the forge down. Solder seemed like a good idea. I didn't realize that the burner would get that hot. Path of least resistance? Conductivity? I suppose that I could have removed the burner from the holder after each session ( I molded the flare shape into the refractory cement ), but that would be kind of annoying.

Thanks a lot for your wisdom gentlemen. - Robert

If you are trying to make a gas forge to emulate the loss of a coal forge then i would recommend two things , using a hard lining ie heavy fire brick and also a blown burner.
the heavy lining makes a forge that will not have the heat pulled out of it by the insertion of multiple steel pieces or big billets .the disadvantage cones in heat up time and fuel loss resulting .
and a blown burner because you do not have to go to the lengths of multiple burners you can get all the heat you need from one burner and a good blower.
having more than one forge is a great idea.

good call basher i have been looking into building a heavy fire brick forge backed with kaowool to try and bank the heat but keep it in the forge
i had honestly not thought much about the blown burner
any thoughts on using compressed air with it instead of a blower

Yes we have discussed it several times over the years and my basic thought is "why would you want to put more hours on your compressor that's an expensive bit of equipment and *will* wear out when you can buy/scrounge a cheap blower?"

Blown burners need fairly low pressure and good amount of air. Compressors tend toward high pressure and little amounts of air---unless you rig up an inducer system.

Of course if you are running your compressor all the time anyway the extra air is fairly negligible; but if not what add the noise?

i have a compressor running most days but i have it boxed in and in the storage part of the shop
but over all i am thinking you are right it was just a thought but i had not really thought of the large volume of air they would use

On 10/3/2011 at 6:16 PM, Frosty said:

The brand name "Tweco" came up as that's what I had on hand when Ron and I were brainstorming the things. Any mig tip will work though some may need to be cleaned out with a torch tip cleaning file set and some mig tips have metric threads. One of the guys here has been using the metric tips and has the things well tweeked at the 1/2" burner size.

I've posted a pic of my forge any number of times so you guys who are tired of looking at please feel free to skip the rest.

Most anyone who is smithing more than a specific product runs into the "how large a forge do I need" dilema, below is my solution. It's an adjustable volume design, the lid is on a scissor jack though I recommend a trailer screw jack. The floor is an insulating castable refractory covered by split 3,000f fire brick. The side and partition walls are soft fire brick and can be rearranged to customize the chamber size and shape. Everything is liberally coated with ITC-100. The burners are my "T" design ejectors plumbed through a manifold with individual 1/4 turn ball valves.

Frosty the Lucky.

Frosty, can you repost your forge plan? It seems to fit my purposes for a forge exactly, but now(14 years later) the file cannot load.