Brick chisel for hot cut?

[Elemental Metal Creations]

I am getting ready to set up and start some projects and was thinking of using a brick chisel for a hot cut since I don't have one or the time / experience to make one yet. I have a chisel that is a good fit in the hardy hole of my 50# anvil. Then I got to thinking, the part that rests on the anvil is only about 1/4" thick, would this put to much pressure/force on the anvil if across the face and risk breaking the tail of the anvil off? Would it be safer to have the chisel length wise to the anvil?

[John B]

Hi, The problem is not so much breaking off the heel of the anvil, but of damaging the hardie hole

There is nothing wrong with using it as a hot cut, (hold it in hand or tongs, or wrap it with a wired handle) just not as a hardie which as any tool to be used in the hardie hole should be a firm but easily removable good fit.

We have had many anvils damaged by the use of bolster/brick chisels by visiting or newbie "smiths" using them as hardies without considering the consequences

[Drewed]

My hot cut used to consist of a piece of 1" tubing ( that fit the hardy hole ) with a hunk of lawnmower blade welded vertically to it. Never damaged the hardy hole. As long as the metal is hot, and you don't actually hit the hardy ( stop before you contact it with the hammer ) you should be fine. I would sharpen the edge a little finer if your using it as a hot cut as brick chisel can be a but dull / fat.

[Willis]

I made one of my hot cuts from an old steel wood splitting wedge to fit the hardy hole and another one from a piece of discarded road grader blade to fit my vise. Drewed is right, just dont cut all the way thru to the hardy and you should be fine. Cut 3/4 of the way thru then bend back and forth until it breaks. No damage to the hardy that way.

[Drewed]

Not much sucks more than having to dress your hardy because you got a little heavy hammered. Get good enough with the hammer and you can cut most of the way threw, then sheer the rest off, but miss and its file time!

[pkrankow]

Dress the shoulders of the chisel to fit the hardy nicely if you go this route, there is nothing against it.

Making a hot-cut is not very difficult, and can be done from a piece of leaf spring, or solid stock, and has been discussed rather often.





Phil

[John B]

Exactly Phil, I forgot to mention that, most bolster/brick chisels have radius from blade to handle (and don't always fit snugly) and its this that damages the edges of the hardie hole.

Whatever you use for the hardie should fit right

[Elemental Metal Creations]

Thanks for the comments and info everyone. I checked out the links and got some good ideas. I will definatly dress the chisel so it fits better in the hardy hole and use it for now. I like the idea of making on that sits diagonally out of leaf spring, I have some 3"x 1/2" thick leaf that should make a good one. I also have some 1 1/4" axle that should make some good tools when I get a chance.

[pkrankow]

I have made 3 hot cuts of different designs, 2 for myself and one for my BIL. My brother-in-law's I had a striker for at least (his tool, he can hammer), the others were all me. They are less than pretty, and I plan to reforge one of the hot cuts because it is lopsided.

I have also made a "traditional" bending fork (which looks good) and need to finish grinding on a "edge tool"...never seem to find time for a tool I haven't needed yet.

Phil

[thingmaker3]

The brick chisel does make an adequate top tool.

In years past, when I first got my 50# anvil doorstop, I quickly learned the brick chisel is not stable in the hardie hole. So, no, it don't work as a bottom tool.

[Ten Hammers]

Hoof chisels, welding chippers, storebought cold chisels and the far side of the anvil all work for a hot cut in a pinch. Getcherself some aluminium bar stock or scrap plate for setting on the face of the anvil to protect it when cutting through. Yes, I have a couple of real handled hot cuts and use them but in a pinch, the sharp edge on the heel of an anvil will make a nice incised area to bend and break off. forging a bottom tool to cut with is fine too. Just don't say you can't because you don't have the tools.

[Jason @ MacTalis Ironworks]

You also might be able to find a smith in your area willing to give you a hand with making one or showing you how. I make them all the time for the local club, but I require that the guy I am making it for strikes for me so that he sees how to do it for himself next time.

[Awalker]

Just make a washer for it out of 1/4 " plate, maybe a 2x2" piece. That way it will protect teh anvil from damage from the shoulder of the chisel. Then again, the time spent making that may as well be spent just making a hot cut. I usualy just use mild steel (get a piece the same size or larger than your hardy and forge the end to fit), then cut a piece just shy of the right length, then weld a ball bearing, or piece of spring steel to the end (just use something high carbon), then forge the end to shape. All told, you will spend half an hour making it (or 6 hours making your first one, then 30 minutes each after that).