Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Need to Identify Anvil and Value


Recommended Posts

It is in good condition, so I would say between $1 and $3 per pound of steel, even with it only the top half of an anvil. It is the working half. If you are in an anvil rich area like Ohio or Pennsylvania then the lower, and an anvil poor area the higher.

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites


To me it looks like it was chopped in half drilled and bolt mounted to some wood. Just how it looks, long as it works no big deal.

I know it was old when he bought it over 40 years ago, someone told me they saw a similar one without a base as well it sat flat.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a crazy thought, but what if someone long, long ago just encased the bottom portion of the anvil to make it quieter? In the first pic it appears to me that there is the wooden base on a concrete base...like I said, just a crazy thought. If it were mine I would take the angle iron off and have a look-see at least. Nice looking anvil otherwise and definitly usable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Just a crazy thought, but what if someone long, long ago just encased the bottom portion of the anvil to make it quieter? In the first pic it appears to me that there is the wooden base on a concrete base...like I said, just a crazy thought. If it were mine I would take the angle iron off and have a look-see at least. Nice looking anvil otherwise and definitly usable.


I wondered that too..Where would I look for any markings? are they usually on the bottom? My dad has someone interested do you have an idea what he should ask for it?

post-22166-0-84460700-1310264197_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I wondered that too..Where would I look for any markings? are they usually on the bottom? My dad has someone interested do you have an idea what he should ask for it?

With the horn to your right, you should find the makers mark on the waist about mid-way. But if you have only the top half this mark may be gone. Remove the angle iron, take a wire wheel on a grinder and buff the paint off of the anvil to reviel any markings. So many anvils are identified from their feet and under the base and could make a definite I.D. of this anvil harder to prove, unless of course you do find markings on the waist. As for price...if your dad ain't gonna use it and the interested party will use it give the guy a decent deal. If the anvil has a good rebound then I would think $1.00 to 1.50 p/lb would be fair for both parties, after all, it is only 1/2 of an anvil! ;)
Link to comment
Share on other sites


With the horn to your right, you should find the makers mark on the waist about mid-way. But if you have only the top half this mark may be gone. Remove the angle iron, take a wire wheel on a grinder and buff the paint off of the anvil to reviel any markings. So many anvils are identified from their feet and under the base and could make a definite I.D. of this anvil harder to prove, unless of course you do find markings on the waist. As for price...if your dad ain't gonna use it and the interested party will use it give the guy a decent deal. If the anvil has a good rebound then I would think $1.00 to 1.50 p/lb would be fair for both parties, after all, it is only 1/2 of an anvil! ;)

Thank You!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anvils are not considered "old" until they get to be 200 years or more, that one probably is not older than 100 years. I have an 1828 William Foster that is only "late middle aged" and still gets used.

That looks like a 1/2 anvil to me. Damaged anvils sell very cheap and so are usually a great buy for beginning smiths. I bought one missing just the heel for about 33 cents a pound in Columbus OH. Yours looks in quite good shape. I'd pay you a dollar a pound (just for the anvil part not the base) if the face has been hardened. (see the ball bearing test). [and yes this is an offer, I can arrange pickup in MI]

I used to live in Columbus OH which had *2* companies making anvils back in the day and so a number of "lunchbox specials" were around. Heat treat would be done after welding the top to the base so if that one wasn't a failed weld---which happened I have the *base* from a Peter Wright, (hmmm might fit that top....)

I don't think it's cast in or else the angle iron wouldn't be needed to hold it in place.

If it was a finished anvil that then failed there may be a stamped in name on the side. Hay Budden, Trenton, Peter Wright would be nice!---my 1/2 peter wright still had the weight stamps, the name would have been on the top half---Postman made the call on maker for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...