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W1 Wakizashi In Progress


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Thanks for the comments; I am still new to the hamon thing and can't account for the "clouds" unless some of the clay popped off in a serendipitous manner! I am trying to come up with a good approach to finish polishing this blade and have ordered some resources to study. On a small remote island some supplies are not locally available and I may need to order some stuff in, but I will be experimenting a bit tomorrow to see what I can do with what I have on hand. Aloha, Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

Does the "cloud" formation penetrate to the other side. In the picture you posted, there doesn't appear to be any damage to the surface of the refractory coating applied to the blade. Happy accident. Becomes useful when repeatable.

Maybe Oahu or the Big Island have what you need. The web can save a lot of travel time, but it would be a nice excuse to stretch your legs. Inter-Island travel is so convenient, at least it was while I lived on Oahu.

Wow! Looking at your latest pictures, it turned out great. It's da kine Brah! Sorry Steve, that doesn't sound cool when I write that. :lol: You know what I mean, I hope. Aloha, Robert

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Howzit Robert, yes, the "clouds" show up on both sides, definitely a happy accident, now to see if i can figure out how that happened!I just finished a 4 burner blown forge for longer heat treating so hopefully i will post more successes in the future. Regards, Steve

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  • 3 weeks later...

Howzit Steve, Nice Habaki. Seems like you've done a few of those before. Until I read the book "The Craft of the Japanese Sword," I had no idea what purpose the Habaki served. :lol: Did you go with a textural or a smooth finish? Hard to tell from the second picture. What kind of wood did you use for the scabbard? Actual ho wood? Take care.

Robert

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Thanks, actually that is only the second one I made and the first one was pretty bad; I tried to do better on this one :) I watched the youtube videos by Pavel Bolf on koshirae and they gave me some good clues. The finish on this habaki is just 220 grit and the habaki is pretty plain jane compared to what some guys are making. I was happy with the fit on this one. The saya is made from rock maple which was some wood I had on hand. My last attempt was with koa wood but I was concerned that the oils in the wood could affect the blade so i went with the maple. Finish is just a few coats of Danish oil rubbed in well. Thanks for the comments, aloha, Steve

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SS:

The Hitsura is most commonly formed when the refractory "pulls away" from the blade during the hardening quench...You CAN do some manipulation with the clay to achive the same effect but as I understand it that is hoping for the best in most cases unless you have a whole bunch of experience in doing that...

Looks good to me...I wouldn't beef about the habaki either..looks A-OK and as long as it works?? Who really cares?

JPH

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SS:

You're welcome...but I am in no way, shape or form any sort of inspiriation at all...All I am doing is "spreading the word" as they say on how to do "this stuff"..For the longest time bladesmithing in general has been pretty much "kept secret" and techniques and methods were jealously guarded... My first book came along and blew that to pieces...and now folks are finding out that a lot of this ISN'T that difficult and quite "do-able" if you have the patience and learn as you go from your mistakes..Remember..it's as I have said many times in the past: "Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted"....and my other quote, which has been corrupted by another: "That which does not kill me P****S me off"....

Below are two pics, the first one is of a hamon with Hitasura, this is on a naginata I am working on and the second is just a gunome Hamon on a Kobuse 1075/WI blade... The hard part is doing a polish that can bring out all the fun stuff going on in the steel...At least for me..

JPH

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks for the comments and welcome to Iforgeiron. As for an anvil on Oahu, that is a bit tricky. There used to be a discount import tool store on Dillingham that had "decent" starter anvils for around $100, that is where i bought my first one in 2006. If you have the ability to scrounge a bit you may find something useable as an anvil, like my second one which was an old excavator hammer bit used as a post anvil. Some people use rail sections but there are better solutions. Shipping is what will hit hard trying to order an anvil from the mainland. Be creative and realize for bladesmithing you do not "need" a traditional London pattern anvil. Good luck!

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