GregDP Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 I recently purchased a "ment 1912 140lb Hey budden" Gentleman told me it'd be 350 on the phone but he told me to research what a great anvil it was. I did even though I had an idea. When I got there I kinda knew what I was looking at I'm fairly certain the date was off. 124 stamped on the side it was 125 on the bathroom scale. And I'm assuming now it's a bit younger than claimed. And while I'm no expert but to me 'ment condition' means as it came from the factory. Not an anvil two holes tacked and ground down and a gash near the heel. All things considered.. for me I still felt it was a good deal. I played dumb to the damage and falsities hoping to feel out things a bit more. No one likes to be called a liar or ignorant, most of the conversation as he continued to sell me the anvil even after the cash was in his hand. The guy wasn't a smith, but he does metal work. As a collector (I got the feeling he was more the buy/trade type than collector)I don't think he really was as knowledgeable as he professed although he did have a copy of anvils of America. But he wasn't unknowledgeable, misinformed a bit and fuzzy on some details he just isn't as interested personally I suppose. All said and done though I felt it was a good deal and I'm very happy with it. He can spend time looking them, 'cause there certainly is a market, and hopefully I'll be able to trade up eventually and have more time to smith. If anyone could help me out narrowing things down a bit I'd appreciate it. And I wonder what condition others would describe the face. Honestly I'm very happy but any input is greatly apprieciated. I'm not much of a haggler, I tried to let him know now how much I wanted it and how excited I was to get it and that didn't give me much of a leg to yard sale even if I'd wanted to. Thanks a lot for any details. I'm very proud to own it, here it is: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sask Mark Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 A12285 was made in the year 1919. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 Hey Raggy, I think you got yourself a really good deal there. Nice clean edges, looks good to me. Enjoy your new anvil. Mark<>< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregDP Posted April 17, 2011 Author Share Posted April 17, 2011 Thanks Marks. Working on something with any sort of rebound at all is a huge step for me. I hope to double my work load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 I think you did good, Like Marksnagel said the edges look great. It looks like there are some dings in the face, but I would not worry about that, just use it as is. Good edges on an anvil that is 92 years old I think you got an anvil that was made on a good day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregDP Posted April 17, 2011 Author Share Posted April 17, 2011 Would something like gunblue harm the face. I was suggested when buying it to wire brush and then gun blue it. I don't plan to do it at the moment but does anyone know of any products to stay away from that my damage the work face. I've assumed to stay away from anything that needs to be applied very hot. I'm no chemist and there are a lot of choices out there. Here is what I've been using: I took this just as a reminder for folks and cause I enjoy taking pictures. Hind sight is 20/20 and it helps to be able to see it. I wanted to center the anvil but I've never cut a completely square chainsaw cut in one pass. I'm afraid it works and is level but I'm a bit embarrassed it looks half-assed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 My 134# HB, I don't think I could dent it like that with a sledge as it has a quite hard face. Did you try the ball bearing test? Definitely not mint; but in decent using condition. I'd worry more about possible fumes of placing hot steel on a chemically blued surface; as long as you stay under the tempering temperature of the anvil heat won't bother it. I don't put anything on my anvils save a little wax every now and then. Hot steel will keep the face clean---if it's getting rusty you need to forge more often! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregDP Posted April 20, 2011 Author Share Posted April 20, 2011 A great point I hadn't considered. I'd done so with my trashcan forge worried about the zinc because it's galvanized. I didn't have easy access to a 1-inch ball barring and tested a marble on my "anvil" but didn't even try it when I got there. I didn't really think it'd be helpful.. and I hate to admit it but I'm so eager I knew I wanted it. Something to note It doesn't dent easily and haven't notice much, it's odd be able to develop a rhythm now. I now know first hand why others tap the anvil face every so often and it hasn't dented it yet (not the cross section the flat). I'm still alert to the possibility of why it does have the tacks I know that creates heat and that changes the temper. I haven't noticed the difference yet. I also need help identifying an unknown steel. (<summery) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyScott Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Would something like gunblue harm the face. I can't answer the question regarding gunblue, however I use ATF (automatic transmission fluid),just a little dab 'll do you, a little on a paper towel and wipe the face real good. I had read that some of the ATF components have an affinity for metal. I then throw a cutoff leg from a pair of jeans on the anvil and a piece of wood to keep the wind from blowing the fabric off. No rust. I didn't have easy access to a 1-inch ball barring and tested a marble on my "anvil" but didn't even try it when I got there. Instead of a ball bearing, use a lightweight ball peen hammer. Ensure the face of the hammer is smooth. Grip the hammer handle lightly between thumb and forefinger (they will act as a pivot point) with the remaining fingers loosely gripping the handle. Start tapping the face from a height of 2 to 3" and work the entire face. You will be listening for consistency in the sound, for example 'bing', and feeling for a consistency in the rebound. If you hear different sound, for example 'bong' and/or the rebound is different, that area gets a little more attention. Could be just a tiny soft spot, i.e, the 'tack' you mentioned. Not a big deal. If the sound is attenuated, 'buzzy', over a larger area could be an indication you have a separated face. You may notice that a certain area seems to be 'sweeter' that the rest. If that is over the center of mass just behind the table, take that into account in your work. Don't worry about denting the face when 'tapping', if you miss the workpiece under a full power stroke and the anvil has good rebound, the butt of the hammer may tattoo your forehead. If the hammer leaves a dent in the face, everytime you look at it you will be reminded to watch your hammer control! And by the way, each anvil is unique. I have a 115 pound de-horned anvil that may be pre-Civil War with rough edges and dings in the face yet has a lovely sweet spot that is just right for my blades. The first blade I made out of this unknown stock.... Here is a link to a post by IFI member Frosty on testing unknown metal for sufficient carbon content for blades. It is a good read: And by the way, good score on your anvil! Now, go hit something hot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Tapping the surface is a different test than the ball bearing test. The ball bearing test is for the hardness of the face. Tapping is to see if there are any welding flaws in the face or anvil. Suggesting to use one rather than the other (or both!) is rather like being worried about a possibly bad tire and you suggesting instead of changing the tire---change the oil! It may certainly need it but doesn't address the issue at hand. Now you can generally get an idea of the hardness with a hammer but it's not the ball bearing test where there are measured data on what you should expect for an anvil of that make. But just like in "Big Trouble in Little China" "Marry them Both!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons lair Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Acoarding to my AIA it was made in 1920. Don't worry about the face plate as it is platless. Solid tool steel from the waist up. I have a 142 lber just like it. It's my favorite. Ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregDP Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share Posted April 21, 2011 Don't worry about denting the face when 'tapping', if you miss the workpiece under a full power stroke and the anvil has good rebound, the butt of the hammer may tattoo your forehead. If the hammer leaves a dent in the face, everytime you look at it you will be reminded to watch your hammer control! And by the way, each anvil is unique. I have a 115 pound de-horned anvil that may be pre-Civil War with rough edges and dings in the face yet has a lovely sweet spot that is just right for my blades. I cried, I rubbed my forehead, I laughed. I learned my lesson. Thanks each of you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimw Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 your anvil is the sovereign of all anvils, and you bought a particularly nice one. Hay buddens are worth their weight in gold............the BEST! Congratulations and happy forging! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.