GregDP

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Everything posted by GregDP

  1. Thanks. I've got a dressing tool, I'll just keep wear out the stone until it's time to fix it. And then I'll start worrying about avoiding grooves.
  2. Consistency over long periods of time is important.. but don't stress it. I bought a low-mid range regulator and needle valve to control flow and pressure. As pressure and temperature in the tank changes it may slightly change the consistency of your regulator but it'll be negligible unless you want extreme and exact control with in a few degrees is it worth paying twice as much? If money is no obstacle consider investing in a good pressure gauge over an expensive regulator. They less expensive than a high end regulator and more useful for documentation. I would check your local gas supplier over buying online or in a home improvement store. They'll be able to help you out with fitting and everything else. The cost is often fair.. if not the cheapest. Flow is as important as pressure in my opinion so if you haven't consider the needle valve. High pressure and low flow may be needed for a small forge with a long burner tube, for instance.
  3. What wears out a bench grinding stone. Grooves good or bad? I use my bench grinder for flat grinding mostly. I use the edge of the stone to debur occasionally. It's kind of rounded on both edges and flat in the middle for flat grinding. But I try not to create grooves and to keep parts moving. In a shop I'm working in I've got full rein, the owners aren't real hands on, as long as the work gets done they seem happy but I want to take care of it. The last folks working there wore a real groove a little to the right of the center. It's only used to debur small round stock and I've been trying to even out the face but without being able to smoothly move side to side I'm making small grooves. Am I making things worse? I've got to get things done quickly it pays on production, but I want to take care of their things. I get a feeling the last folks just did what was easy and fast ( putting the part at an angle in the middle and applying a lot of pressure) which started the problem. How do you use your bench grinder? Will running a bench grinder without anything on one side damage it? I took the unused wire wheel off to put on a cut off wheel but I need a space of some kind an I didn't replace it because it gets in the way and it would have been a hassle to take off twice, I figured it was made to handle a variety of weight including none.
  4. GregDP

    Bill

    You've peaked my curiosity. I have to know whats a ".410 pistol grip hammer". Literally the hammer mechanism of a .410? Because at first I imagined the most awkward tiny hammer the swing. :P
  5. Absolutely, it's a job that takes knowledge, skill and audacity. I for one am never insulted when someone assumes just because I'm standing beside an anvil.. I'm also willing to wrest the foot a 1000lb animal squarely between my knees :o. Heh, I'm actually not afraid of a horse. I grew up around 'em and watched farriers work; I'd even like to learn the trade as much as there is to learn. I do figure someone who likes horses and is interested in blacksmithing ought to at least try making a horse shoe. The number of talented blacksmiths out there who used to shoe horses.. I don't know I bet it's good practice.. if you're not afraid of a stereotype. Any plans to eventually make your own cinch hardware? Every so often I see them, it'll really up the ante and make them something special.
  6. That's a nice set up in the works. You may find that expanded mesh may screen out more fuel than desired if you ever pile up any coal or charcoal outside of the firepot. I wouldn't even worry about pounding down that dent in the bottom. Some folks even use a raised air-inlet so that the clinker forms in a doughnut around the bottom. Although that's a large hole in the middle. Looks like you may even make try and make a horse shoe or two based on your other photos. I think the world needs more smiths who aren't afraid of being thought of as farriers. :D
  7. The none-magnetic test is just a sign the blade has transformed to austenite (it's none magnetic, this is the curie temperature). Quenching at the critical temperature (usually around the curie temperature.) will ensure the greatest formation of martensite from austenite. Is it that simple? Yes it is. No it isn't. (Very helpful right?) I've honestly had a rough time with heat treating. This book helped me at least understand how much I don't understand :P “Metallurgy of Steel for Bladesmiths & Others who Heat Treat and Forge Steel” written by John D. Verhoeven. I've had better results using a magnet on a scrap piece of desired steel at night to identify and learn the visuals. I then heat treat at night... I do this because I found I'd over heat the edge, where it counts, when depending on the magnet... All that said I'm not a real knife maker. But I've made some decent tools. If you want to make something perfect, use perfect tools and techniques. Otherwise don't sweat imperfection and learn from your mistakes.
  8. GregDP

    Bill

    Perhaps giving the shirt a defined/textured collar would make the transition from the neck-shirt look more natural? It's an impressive likeness as is.
  9. That's truly awesome. It's been a joy to see it come together.
  10. As long as you know the risk, I can sleep at night.. But ask yourself, "does my audience know?" A fine example like you've set forth is sure to be imitated; A little text box with a warning might save someone some stitches.
  11. Some folks might not know the dangers of striking the a hardened hammer face with another hardened hammer. Like with the ball peen used to form the jaws. I've never seen either hammer chip, but I believe it can happen. I've got a softer hammer for abusing my ball peens.. and I sometimes remember to grab it.. :P. As long as the metal is hot I don't think it's as risky.. but I felt it was worth saying. Great video. Nice tongs.
  12. That's it, thanks for clearing it up for me. Found it at local library. I need to go back and read it again see if I still view it in the same light these days. I was recalling my thoughts on the idea, between the ash, and the moisture content and the time it takes for the wood to cook and controlling the atmosphere.. it's very difficult to forge with wood even with a supply of charcoal to help out.
  13. Just to clear up confusion, that ace/oxy description doesn't sound right to me. I've not done any acetylene welding, but I believe your supposed to weld in a neutral flame. Same with Cutting.. big/small may just be confusing me. Good luck. (welding principles and applications 6th addition- just wanted to make sure)
  14. This just seems like the place to share a link I found a while back. I dug it out. The science of fire. I was very surprised not to find any real blacksmithing specific info on the site after seeing the forged steel flint striker, but there are some good reads. Hope it helps, it does discuses the charcoal conversion. Any trouble your having is due to a lack of fuel or a lack of air. I do not believe your using too much air. I'd imagine its too little charcoal if that round forge you've got there is mounded high then look for another air source. I'm reminded of a story I read in one of the blacksmith books.. toward the beginning of my journey. I wish I could remember the book but.. A fellow used a large pipe suspended from a tree. It was basically one huge chimney that burned wood into charcoal during forging operations.. although I could be remembering it wrong. Initiating a draft somehow may help you if an electrical option doesn't present itself.
  15. Alrighty. I'm up from the shop and in the comfort of my armchair and I've got a little time to relax. I like a project. :P Did you decide to make charcoal like Bigcity suggested? I use small pieces of charcoal. The size of your thumb or less, see if that helps. You want lots and lots of charcoal inside a deep firepot (metal, brick, mud, clay or wood if you must it'll work once.). Deeper than the length of your hand. Tell us what number color the fire is to you. And what number color your steel is.
  16. You catch more flies with honey. ;) Now you learned something. You're pictures are rather large, but many tool have several names depending on who's using them an how.. Your question is rather vague, but be patient, and perhaps check a book.
  17. It occurs to me that my wording may have been confusing regarding a hollow fire. "cool your steel" is relative to what the same amount of air with the right amount of fuel would be. I should have said "your steel won't get as hot".. It certainly won't be a very good quench for your steel. :P I'd edit it, but alas... I don't believe I can.
  18. That info went right into the notebook Glen. Thank you. I like to think of too much air and not enough fuel like running the AC on cool with the fireplace going. :P It can be hard to tell a hollow fire with a coal shell because it doesn't send coke flying. There is a balance, if the O2 is moving faster than it can burn I can only assume it changes (an under-filled) hearth temperature closer to the ambient atmosphere.. since oxygen isn't the only thing air is comprised of.. at least that's how I interpret a white hot shell with nothing below. Azur, If the top tube isn't supported/attached by anything other than the rubber and arm? I'd guess it's just there as a guide. What is your desired metal size to work with?
  19. GregDP

    Scale

    Aye, the ol' wet hammer and anvil trick works, but I've rarely done that since it a rather large pop and splatter scared me away from the method. Try it at your own risk.
  20. GregDP

    Scale

    Get it to anvil quickly and hit it faster than the scale can become a problem. Wire brushing is good, and necessary during slower task. But hammering is better. Scale becomes a bigger problem when we're at the anvil thinking not doing. At least that’s what I've found. ^_^ Material makes a big difference too. Stainless steels are also an option. Some hardly flake at all. But I'd like to know any tips too. I wonder what the BlacksmithsJournal has to say.
  21. GregDP

    clay?

    I second Sreynolds. My current fire pot is steel with a thick plate and the bottom. But if you don't have that option (I didn't always).. If using a bentonite clay designed to absorb urine or oil, giving it the time to hydrate properly is important. I like a little red clay mixed with my litter. Giving it time to dry properly before firing is even more important. It can be done nice and neatly. If you just want to get the job done it can quick task. But expect cracking and crumbling. You can patch it, but wouldn't you rather do it the right way? Air and low heat to begin the cure. Keep the outside moist. Then slowly fire the forge. Expect this to take several days depending on the size and how thick you build up the clay to for a firepot.
  22. Your problem is with your off hand not your hammering most likely. The spine of the blade needn't be on the anvil face the entire time you work the bevel. If start with the edge and spine on the anvil keep a firm twisting pressure on the edge with your off hand and you hammer to correct. I hope this makes sense. Something I found was that if I don't heat up and work the entirety of one side of the blades bevel in a single heat then I would end up with an inconsistent wavy edge. With practice I've been able to smoothly thin a convexed bevel using glancing angled blows toward me on one side and away on the other using a slightly convexed hammer. I do this carefully on the face of the anvil most often. This is less effective but easier than firm angled blows which should be done with the edge parallel to a softened (not sharp) edge. These can be done once a consistent bevel is acquired. The better hammer control you have, the flatter your hammer face should be. Too flat and you'll spend more time grinding out sharp divots. Too convexed and you'll end up with rounded low spots that are just as bad. My advice -- which may make some cringe -- is to round the most damaged edge of your anvil or to avoid outright chipping it or a hammer that is too hard. A good hammer will dent before it destroys your anvil, but accidentally hitting material that is over a sharp edge can ruin your work. Too far back and you'll have to redress your hammer. -- Be prepared to be offered a dollar (or more) less for an anvil if it doesn't have crisp edges. But my anvil is a tool, and I've found a radius-edge far more useful that the slightly dinged one that was there before. Keep at it!
  23. Very cool. You can see a great picture of the drive system here. And the inside here. It's nice to see the past still present.
  24. Plumbing is respectable work. Perhaps it's because I see myself in you that I say this. Stay diligent. You're obviously intelligent. You can learn new things, like language. I struggle enough with english as a native tongue :P so I imagine it was difficult. You're obviously not using an online translator. My advice is that while you show remarkable ingenuity and intelligence.. you should attempt to apply what skills you have in your attempt to build a forge. Consider it a plumbing problem with heat. Your forge is a sink, the drain is your air source... For fuel your burning wood must be starved of enough oxygen not to completely burn but have enough oxygen for a short time to provide enough heat, not fire, to convert to charcoal. Fire is just a means to an end. With a plan you will secede. Just consider where you want to go and how you want to get there. It will not be easy but I'm a firm believer that the journey is as important as the destination. Perhaps your reasons for wanting to pursue blacksmithing is not for an enjoyment of the craft. If so then you will likely not be successful as there are many other aspects to blacksmthing (like forge construction for instance but not limited to that solely) that are somewhat less enjoyable. Being able to build a forge is something anyone can do. If you're looking for a career then there will be many more challenges ahead. So do what you must. But life is short and you'll only have so much time in your youth. So prepare for your future.
  25. If you've never seen something like this. It can be a real sight. I wanted some photos on the mechanics underneath but alas the public was encouraged not to visit. I'm easily captivated by this sort of thing. Could help but think a real practical use for the historic site would be a blacksmith shop. But heck I think the same thing about starbucks.