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I Forge Iron

Coal Forge Repair


Joe W

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Hello All,
A friend gave me an old coal fired forge, anvil, tools, and blower. Unfortunately the fire pot and tuyere are rusted out. I think I can repair it with a Centaur 12" Round Firepot with Sliding Ashgate, Item Number 12FIREPOT. I think I can cut a 12" hole in the bottom of my cast iron table with a torch, set the firepot in, and connect it to the blower with a 3" flexible pipe. The blower is in good working order. I am seeking a second opinion on this from someone who may have tried it. I called Centaur, and they said they thought it would work, but I did not get the feeling that they clearly understood what I am trying to do, therefore I am still a little worried about spending all that money. I have attached a sketch and picture of my forge. Also, besides the firepot and air hose, do I need any other parts such as a clinker breaker or grate to keep coal from falling down the air hole? I very much appreciate any advice. Centaur offers a book for beginners called A Blacksmith Primer, which I plan to buy.

Joe

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the pot your looking at does not have a clinker breaker from the write up; so you have to buy the fire grate...before you invest that much look for a rotor off a roll back wrecker you can weld a floor flange in the center and use 2"pipe fitting..you could try that to see if you want to spend the extra money...

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If you are going to the expense of buying top of the line firepot why work with a beat up old cast iron forge body? Just make your own!

If I was going to try to recover that forge I would find a set of jackstands made from a Banjo rear end axle covers, (last set I bought was $5 and produces 2 round forge pots, about a month ago in Albuquerque NM; First set has been the firepot in my primary forge for about 25 years now---one of them, the other is backup for when this one wears out---maybe my grandson will make that switch someday...) Anyway I ground out the ridges and bearing holder and use a simple grill to cover the hole.

BTW cast iron doesn't torch cut worth a hoot...and likes to crack on you to boot!

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same opinion on the poor old cast iron parts, turn it upside down, smash, bash, and free the base. proceed to fab a steel plate forge using those legs and frame you can cut the plate to accomodate firepot, insulate the plate, and build up the sides of your forge with sand/cement mix. 3 parts sand - 1 part cement (portland cement, not concrete mix) mix moist and mold to shape. pax

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I have my mind set to refurbish this forge instead of building another one, even though it might not be the most logical thing to do. It appears that I am going to have to cut a hole in the cast iron table whether I build a firepot or buy one. Do you think I should use a saw instead of a torch? I do not have a torch, so I will be asking a friend who has a torch to do it, but perhaps I could saw it myself with a hacksaw or sawsall and use a grinder to smooth it out. This sounds like a lot of hard work. Maybe a torch would work if the metal was heated properly to reduce the chance of cracking? If I get the hole cut, could the firepot sit in the table without being bolted down? Also, how do I keep coal from falling down the air hole? Centaur offers a part called a Cast Iron Tuyere grate, but the description specifically says that the tuyere will not fit a Centaur Coal Forge, which I guess this means it won't fit the firebowl I am thinking about buying.

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If you want to buy a fire pot I suggest you go with a Roger Lorance fire pot they measure about 11 x 14 inches, you can cut a hole using a grinder and a thin cutting wheel. You can order the fire pot, ash gate and clinker breaker direct from Roger, he is located in Illinois and will ship it to you. His contact info (309) 475-9012, price if very reasonable and this fire pot will last they are heavy duty.

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Thanks clinton. Your suggestion on using a grinder appears to be do-able. I have learned that cutting the hole with a torch would likly end in disaster and trying to saw it would be a bad idea. If I put in a rectangle firepot, I wouldn't have to make a curved cut. I saw the pictures you posted when you replaced your firepot. Tomorrow I will try my grinder on the cast iron table to see how well it works, before I call Mr Lorance. Thanks again.

Joe

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Use a thin cutting wheel on a 4 inch grinder, I would get the fire pot before cutting so you get the hole the right size, also drilling the corners would be a good idea, as Jimmy said, cast iron can take off in a crack from a sharp edge. Roger is a great guy to deal with and his fire pots will last a long, long time. It is the same one that Brian Brazeal uses and he forges daily

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All, I tried cutting the cast iron with a 4" grinder and a sawsall. Both worked fine, but the sawsall seemed to be better. Plus I think it would be less hazardous because airborne metals that I could breath would be less. Since I am confident I can cut the table, I ordered a firepot from Mr Lorance. Mr Lorance said I could cut the table with an air torch. If my plan to use a grinder and saw doesn't work out, I'll try to find someone with and air torch. I'll post pictures after I get this done. Thanks for your input. Joe

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Over the years, I have high-graded to all cast iron hearths by "buy-sell-trade." One time, I wanted to go through a cast iron hearth, so I drilled a series of holes close to each other and broke out the unwanted pieces with vise grips. Your Lorance pot will probably be rectangular; your cut-out meassurement will be under the flange. I line the hearths with portland cement and sand mix to the height of the flange (see Old n Rusty above).

http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools

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  • 1 month later...

Looks good Joe- I see you decided to go with the sawzall to cut with. Did you get the ash dump and clinker breaker? I was able to use my old air inlet / ash dump using an adapter plate that I had to make. You will be very happy with this fire pot, they are the best ones that I have come across for sure

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