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spur making

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I am new here, this is my first try, hope I can find info on how to cut shoeing rasps to width to make spurs. I know of a maker in New Mexico who has his cut on a commercial water jet, up here it is a min. $100 to start with that program, a little pricey for a hobby deal. I shoe and train for a living, have a welder/torch etc. Cutting these rasps w/ a torch makes for a lot of cleanup, so, what is the slickest way to do this? I have forged them to width by hand in the past but it is a lot of work; gives a very interesting snakeskin pattern. By the way, machine shops are no help, the steel is too hard to mess with a bandsaw etc. Thanks for any input.

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I have made a few pairs of rasp spurs. I usually cut the rasp in two even halves. For each half i determine how long the shank and heel bands need to be and cut down the center with my bandsaw stopping where the shank starts. The metal on either side of the cut will be the heel band. I then fold this over and the folded, not cut, end will be the shank. I then weld the shank where the fold meets. Simple as that. This could also be accomplished with an angle grinder with a cut off wheel. Hope this helps. If you don't have a commercial bandsaw, i have seen people use small pipe bandsaws held in a vise to cut metal.

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Big Johnson

First things first, I want to welcome you to “I Forge Iron”

I am new to making spurs, so anything I say comes only from that (very weak)point of view.
I can say though, that I do my best to study out (in detail) about any new undertaking that I am going to attempt.
So far I have studied everything I could find on the internet such as various “How To Do” articles, “I Forge Iron”, “spursandbit.com”, and watched the video’s on “you Tube”.
I have also purchased a book by Robert M. Hall, and I also purchased DVD’s made by “Bruce Cheaney” from Gainesville Texas.
Then just today, I sent for a DVD called “How to Make Texas-Style Spurs” that was made by Stan Gillham who is also from Texas.

Now keep in mind that I am new to making spurs when I say the following!
All of the information I have found so far says that what ironstein said in his post is
arguably “RIGHT ON The TARGET” unless you are geared up with higher tech machinery!

Please keep us posted on your progress. I plan on posting as soon as the Photo Gallery is up-dated in the very near future. Right now I cannot find half of my photos.

I wish you the very best as you continue your journey as a Craftsman!
Ted Throckmorton

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Files and rasps can be annealed with a coal forge and a bucket of ashes. Or, if they will fit in a propane forge, heat them until a magnet will not stick, shut it off, and then leave them inside with the doors blocked with bricks. When cool, they should be soft enough to cut with a metal cutting bandsaw. Check to see if they are soft enough with a file or hand held hacksaw. If they bite everywhere, you are good to go. If they skate anywhere, repeat with a slower cool rate.

A plasma cutter would make short work of them, too. Clean up would be a lot less than with a torch.

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First, let's assume that the rasp is high carbon steel (plus chromium?), and that it is not case hardened, as I've heard some cheesy ones are. If you can get a long enough cherry red heat, you can anneal the rasp in a box of lime, wood ashes, or vermiculite. It will cool very slowly and will become "room temperature soft." The band saw will cut easier, and so will the slender, cutoff wheel.

If you lived in 1850, you would use heat and have your striker hit repeatedly on your hafted hot-cut. You'd be rocking it along like a P-38 can opener, the same way you use a horseshoe nail creaser. Then you would grind of the slight bevel.

http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools

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Well it aint 1850 but I cut mine out with a hot cut. One pair with a striker and one pair on my own. The 1/16" cut off wheels on your 4.5 angle gringer works fine to, especially if annealled. I used cut off wheels to cut in the shank for the rowel also. They were great fun and turned out really cool. Have fun

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