monstermetal Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 Doc, Of course I plan to forge in the fire, doesn't everybody....that way I can keep the tungsten soft and the lead molten too, just kidding Glen..........Just driving around looking for suitable anvil stock has run into $$$. I do have the the 5x5x1/2 tube, which itself is clearly not ok. you guys have given me allot to ponder, good thing there's no rush....mb I wish you where closer, I have a couple chunks that have been saved for hammer anvils... I have a pin out of a big alligator shear my dad scrapped... it has a head that is about 14" round and 6" thick and then the shaft of the pin is 10" round and about 4 feet long.... the other thing I have is three chunks of 10" sq 32" long... the three chunks one in front of the other on a 30" sq chunk of 4" plate (which I also have) would make a heck of a nice start for a hammer... Another bit I saved is a prop shaft from a ocean going boat... its forged, about 12' long with a 24" diameter bolt flange on one end and a diameter of 9 1/2"... it has about a 2" hole running through the center.. not sure why its hollow but figure it has some benifit to the transmitting of power.... I assume its good steel, It was originally lined with bronze for the bearing but someone stole that I thought just standing it up on that flange and then attaching the column of the hammer to that would make a real cool hammer... I have talked a lot about building a bull style hammer, and I have new style kinyon project that I offered to help a local knife maker with... but my steam has kind of petered out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajclay Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 I wish you where closer, I have a couple chunks that have been saved for hammer anvils... I have a pin out of a big alligator shear my dad scrapped... it has a head that is about 14" round and 6" thick and then the shaft of the pin is 10" round and about 4 feet long.... the other thing I have is three chunks of 10" sq 32" long... the three chunks one in front of the other on a 30" sq chunk of 4" plate (which I also have) would make a heck of a nice start for a hammer... Another bit I saved is a prop shaft from a ocean going boat... its forged, about 12' long with a 24" diameter bolt flange on one end and a diameter of 9 1/2"... it has about a 2" hole running through the center.. not sure why its hollow but figure it has some benifit to the transmitting of power.... I assume its good steel, It was originally lined with bronze for the bearing but someone stole that I thought just standing it up on that flange and then attaching the column of the hammer to that would make a real cool hammer... I have talked a lot about building a bull style hammer, and I have new style kinyon project that I offered to help a local knife maker with... but my steam has kind of petered out... Monstermetal, If you guys have started the new style Kinyon hammer, take some pictures. Everyone puts there own twist to it in one way or another. No matter who builds a hammer I always seem to say "I never thought of that" about something in the build. Just this morning I got a lead on a solid piece of bar stock. So things are looking up.... Later, AJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 20, 2010 Share Posted December 20, 2010 That tube sounds like a dandy start for a treadle hammer anvil! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 That tube sounds like a dandy start for a treadle hammer anvil! Well come on up and I'll give it to ya! I just got got lucky and found a 7''x36'' round solid that's FLUTED,for .30 a lb. Man is this going to be a high class machine or what.....Glad the lead didn't get poured! Thanks guys for the input..............mb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Gonna be odd with an anvil that is 7" thick ,and 36" in diameter B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Gonna be odd with an anvil that is 7" thick ,and 36" in diameter It`ll look OK once he gets the shot bag up on it and the helpers all gather around it with hammers in hand. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted December 21, 2010 Author Share Posted December 21, 2010 Gonna be odd with an anvil that is 7" thick ,and 36" in diameter Oops, I meant to say 7'' dia x 36'' long...mb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Actually I've been scrounging stuff for a treadle hammer for a while. My anvil is a solid chunk of 5.25"? round 4340, I may have to trim the length on it though.(It was sort of free: I bought 4 of them through a friend with access to his company's scrap pile at their scrapper rate and then sold 2 for twice that and so had 2 free ones. Gave one to a friend and have been sitting on mine.) Picked up some 1" plate for the base and am looking at something for the back upright. Sounds like a great find on the fluted stuff! I have a friend whose family used to make specialty systems for nuclear power plant repairs. He's very down on lead; says that just adding more steel to make up for the shielding difference generally works out much better than having to deal with lead. (I haven't told him that I cast wheel weight slabs for working steel for armourmaking...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted December 22, 2010 Author Share Posted December 22, 2010 Actually I've been scrounging stuff for a treadle hammer for a while. My anvil is a solid chunk of 5.25"? round 4340, I may have to trim the length on it though.(It was sort of free: I bought 4 of them through a friend with access to his company's scrap pile at their scrapper rate and then sold 2 for twice that and so had 2 free ones. Gave one to a friend and have been sitting on mine.) Picked up some 1" plate for the base and am looking at something for the back upright. Sounds like a great find on the fluted stuff! I have a friend whose family used to make specialty systems for nuclear power plant repairs. He's very down on lead; says that just adding more steel to make up for the shielding difference generally works out much better than having to deal with lead. (I haven't told him that I cast wheel weight slabs for working steel for armourmaking...) The fluted matierial actually turned out to be tube, after getting It cut I couldn't help but notice a 2.5" hole! The stuff began It's life as a feed roller and the "flutes" were cut (at a slight spiral) to grip the matieral. With trunions on each end it looked lie a giant rolling pin....It's quite hard and needed a carbide blade to cut it,and the cut was true. I was really trying to avoid getting it faced off (bust the budget big time). I'm just gonna have to live with the 2.5 hole, or maybe I could could fill it...Hmmm...nah.......mb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fosterob Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 Just fill it with a 2 1/2" piece of roundbar before welding on your top.Or whatever fits best in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 There are advantages to having a hole in ones anvil if you can make change out dies so that one with a "hardy hole" can be placed over it and then your hardy tooling can be used on the hammer as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted December 22, 2010 Author Share Posted December 22, 2010 There are advantages to having a hole in ones anvil if you can make change out dies so that one with a "hardy hole" can be placed over it and then your hardy tooling can be used on the hammer as well. Well I'm full of coffee and am letting the shop warm up so I guess I could elaborate on this a tad more. As shown the end you see has had the trunion cut off at the top (no hole)so the hole is at the bottom. This way I didn't have to make two cuts through the hardened surface (hole problem solved). The other pic shows what I call a sow plate, it's kinda ugly but It allows perfect alignment with the static upper die as well as the capability to do an underbite or overbite with the dies, I find it useful. The bolt on dies I make nix the need for a hardy hole. also the out rigger nuts that hold the plate nix the need to drill and tap the anvil, a real plus on this piece of steel.....anyway that's how I like to do it..........mb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted December 23, 2010 Author Share Posted December 23, 2010 You shoulda left the hole, probably wouldn't have hurt too much. Then you coulda made some dies with a hardy hole for upsetting in the hammer! I's not welded yet. Not sure I follow you re hardy hole for upsetting, can't that be done with flat dies? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fciron Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 I's not welded yet. Not sure I follow you re hardy hole for upsetting, can't that be done with flat dies? I think Sam is talking about upsetting to make anvil tools: draw the shank, drop in the 'hardy' hole, upset working part of the tool, leave it in the hardy hole and forge in grooves for swages or whatever you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 I dont know what Sam was talking about but what comes to my mind is upseting the end of a bar, you could build a "holder" die that was a pair of clamps, drop up to 30" of bar down the hole and then upset the end to your hearts content... What ever you do I think its a great start, interesting to see the textured/flute exterior... Is this hammer for you or is it a commission? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted December 24, 2010 Author Share Posted December 24, 2010 I think Sam is talking about upsetting to make anvil tools: draw the shank, drop in the 'hardy' hole, upset working part of the tool, leave it in the hardy hole and forge in grooves for swages or whatever you like. Hmmm, that could indeed be handy. I sure can't utilize the hole if it's on the bottom....The thing I'd need to be careful of is not to crash the piston into the cylinder... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 24, 2010 Share Posted December 24, 2010 I don't quite picture it like Larry. I picture more like starting with a large bar, drawing part of it out then drop it in a bolster and put it down the hole to make a rosette or other head on the end. Think "big nail"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted December 24, 2010 Author Share Posted December 24, 2010 I dont know what Sam was talking about but what comes to my mind is upseting the end of a bar, you could build a "holder" die that was a pair of clamps, drop up to 30" of bar down the hole and then upset the end to your hearts content... What ever you do I think its a great start, interesting to see the textured/flute exterior... Is this hammer for you or is it a commission? I can't see me ever hucking bars down the hole to upset, spose it's possible........And ah, the reason for it's existence? For me no, commission no......Too much time on my hands maybe....It's negotiable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 24, 2010 Share Posted December 24, 2010 Well, all you gotta do is plug that hole up permanently - then you'll have a need for it in no time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted December 24, 2010 Share Posted December 24, 2010 The LG anvils are holow. I drilled a 1 1/4 hole thru to the hollow in the bottom of the dovetail on a 50lber one time so I can forge the tee bolts. If I had it I would drill and tap a hole in from the side then make my dies with a round shank that fits the hole & hold them in with a big set screw. You could grind/mill flats on the side of the shank to index the die. might put the same design on the ram. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fciron Posted December 24, 2010 Share Posted December 24, 2010 I don't quite picture it like Larry. I picture more like starting with a large bar, drawing part of it out then drop it in a bolster and put it down the hole to make a rosette or other head on the end. Think "big nail"! I think Grant and I are describing the same thing. Make a bolster to replace the die and its height will prevent cylinder crashing. Of course, it may be too late now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted December 24, 2010 Share Posted December 24, 2010 I drilled a small hole in my anvil. I use hand held headers and upset bolt heads with my power hammer. Makes quick easy work of it really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted December 24, 2010 Author Share Posted December 24, 2010 The LG anvils are holow. I drilled a 1 1/4 hole thru to the hollow in the bottom of the dovetail on a 50lber one time so I can forge the tee bolts. If I had it I would drill and tap a hole in from the side then make my dies with a round shank that fits the hole & hold them in with a big set screw. You could grind/mill flats on the side of the shank to index the die. might put the same design on the ram. Just a thought. Thanks for the input but drilling holes in that bad boy is out, the outside of the cylinder has been induction hardened 1/2" deep.....mb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted December 24, 2010 Share Posted December 24, 2010 Can't be drilled? Sure it can. You can do a spot annealing , or use a carbide drill to get through. I routinely drill out HSS taps at work with carbide drills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted December 24, 2010 Author Share Posted December 24, 2010 Can't be drilled? Sure it can. You can do a spot annealing , or use a carbide drill to get through. I routinely drill out HSS taps at work with carbide drills. Anything is possible, but drilling that hole will be anything but easy. It's 2 1/2" thick and would need taping as well........Not my idea of fun. I recon the hole can be utilized without the set screw. Bolting a bolster to the "outrigger" nuts should work. Also the hole is not true. The trunions were machined into each end 10" or so and the middle is rough. Boring that is over the top......It's all good.mb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.