Cross Pein Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 So - Ace has a coupon today for 50% off any one item under $30. The splitting maul I really wanted was $32. They had one 8# sledge (hit the sweet spot - $29.99) Anyway they only had one and the head is slightly loose. Probably been sitting in that air conditioned store all summer long. I want to know if there is a way to swell the wood back out. Preferably with something that will harden and leave me with a hammer that won't loosen back up. I was thinking linseed oil. I think I remember reading something here about oil being bad for the handle. I searched but it is hard to tell by the title what the post is about. Is there a way to tighten this handle up before I use it besides adding wedges? Thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fosterob Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 tighten the existing wedge and dont look back Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Some guys soak them in Linseed oil, some use anti-freeze. IMO not the best ways. I would try to drive the handle deeper into the head by tapping the end of the handle against my anvil. If you can get it to seat a little deeper then drive the wedges deeper too and add what metal wedges are needed and drive them flush with the hammer head. As you do this (I usually use a ball peen for the final wedge seating) allow the bit of the handle that projects to mushroom a bit. Sometimes if the wood is really dry I will add a little saliva to soften the top fibers so that they mushroom instead of breaking. This works really well for me and mostly I am able to use the hammers for several months or even up to a year before I tighten them a bit more. MOST factory handled hammers with wood handles need some work before they are ready to use IME. In many cases the heads are also not waisted properly in the eyes... which takes a reforging to fix. For these reasons I prefer to buy inexpensive hammers at flea markets... preferably without handles and then make and install my own handles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fciron Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Yep, I think the key is to drive the handle further into the head before tightening the wedges. I sometimes use a center punch to set the metal wedge into the wood a little further. It is also a good idea to have the opposite end of the handle resting on something solid when driving the wedges, otherwise part of your work ends up driving the handle back out of the eye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Whats wrong with soaking the head end in linseed oil for a couple weeks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
son_of_bluegrass Posted November 28, 2010 Share Posted November 28, 2010 I can't think of any problem using a curing oil (like linseed) on a handle. I won't do much to tighten a loose handle by itself but it can provide some moisture protection. Using a non-hardening oil (motor oil, mineral oil and the like) not only won't do anything to tighten the handle, it can allow the head to slip more. As mentioned, the best way to tighten a loose head is to seat the head further on the handle if it will go further then drive the wedge deeper (or add a wedge). ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Re Seat it. Re Wedge it Soak the Re x 2 handle end in linseed oil to keep changes in moisture from causing shrink/swell-crush issues. I had to re-do *all* of my handled tools after I moved from Ohio to NM, most of them are on 5-6 years without *any* further work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Pein Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 Thanks guys, I tightened it up with the existing wedge. It was one of those circular ones. I think I will soak it in linseed oil to keep it tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobago Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 I reseat them and then rewedge with a coin if I have nothing else. Dimes for carpenter and small ball peens and nickles and quarters for bigger hammers. Excelsior, Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
double_edge2 Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 only had a couple come loose,,,handle right in hard, wedge on the diagonal , test, then, a few drops of oil (linseed or machine), some taps and trim... the oil in dry climates slows the shinking of the timber, and the handle coming loose, ...dont know about soaking before you fit and wedge...i thought better after, to help lock it in, .....(I used to wedge straight, then someone said something about the stress's in the eye)...another can of worms maybe.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 You might want to try a product called Penatrol. I have used it on hammers and it works well. It is a oil based paint additive used for reducing brush marks and for thinning in airless sprayers. I also use it on all my outside projects with a natural or rust finish. It is a excellent sealant and rust protector. On items that I have powdercoated, I brush it into the joints where the power has a hard time getting into to keep it from bleeding rust. It is also good for bringing back the luster on fiberglass. I have bought it from Home Depot and Ace Hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.