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I Forge Iron

Loose Handle


Cross Pein

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So - Ace has a coupon today for 50% off any one item under $30. The splitting maul I really wanted was $32.
They had one 8# sledge (hit the sweet spot - $29.99) Anyway they only had one and the head is slightly loose. Probably been sitting in that air conditioned store all summer long. I want to know if there is a way to swell the wood back out. Preferably with something that will harden and leave me with a hammer that won't loosen back up. I was thinking linseed oil. I think I remember reading something here about oil being bad for the handle. I searched but it is hard to tell by the title what the post is about. Is there a way to tighten this handle up before I use it besides adding wedges?

Thanks,
Bill

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Some guys soak them in Linseed oil, some use anti-freeze. IMO not the best ways. I would try to drive the handle deeper into the head by tapping the end of the handle against my anvil. If you can get it to seat a little deeper then drive the wedges deeper too and add what metal wedges are needed and drive them flush with the hammer head. As you do this (I usually use a ball peen for the final wedge seating) allow the bit of the handle that projects to mushroom a bit. Sometimes if the wood is really dry I will add a little saliva to soften the top fibers so that they mushroom instead of breaking. This works really well for me and mostly I am able to use the hammers for several months or even up to a year before I tighten them a bit more. MOST factory handled hammers with wood handles need some work before they are ready to use IME. In many cases the heads are also not waisted properly in the eyes... which takes a reforging to fix. For these reasons I prefer to buy inexpensive hammers at flea markets... preferably without handles and then make and install my own handles.

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Yep, I think the key is to drive the handle further into the head before tightening the wedges. I sometimes use a center punch to set the metal wedge into the wood a little further. It is also a good idea to have the opposite end of the handle resting on something solid when driving the wedges, otherwise part of your work ends up driving the handle back out of the eye.

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I can't think of any problem using a curing oil (like linseed) on a handle. I won't do much to tighten a loose handle by itself but it can provide some moisture protection. Using a non-hardening oil (motor oil, mineral oil and the like) not only won't do anything to tighten the handle, it can allow the head to slip more. As mentioned, the best way to tighten a loose head is to seat the head further on the handle if it will go further then drive the wedge deeper (or add a wedge).

ron

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only had a couple come loose,,,handle right in hard, wedge on the diagonal , test, then, a few drops of oil (linseed or machine), some taps and trim...

the oil in dry climates slows the shinking of the timber, and the handle coming loose, ...dont know about soaking before you fit and wedge...i thought better after, to help lock it in, .....(I used to wedge straight, then someone said something about the stress's in the eye)...another can of worms maybe....

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You might want to try a product called Penatrol. I have used it on hammers and it works well. It is a oil based paint additive used for reducing brush marks and for thinning in airless sprayers. I also use it on all my outside projects with a natural or rust finish. It is a excellent sealant and rust protector. On items that I have powdercoated, I brush it into the joints where the power has a hard time getting into to keep it from bleeding rust. It is also good for bringing back the luster on fiberglass. I have bought it from Home Depot and Ace Hardware.

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