3lbhammer Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 Here is my new forge in progress. firepot model from thick cardboard. It is formed of four sections 11 inch length with 60 degree angles and 4 inch wide, four of these to be welded of 3/8 sheet steel. The forge is 39" X 24" I came across an old bed frame for the angle iron. It is a good source of angle iron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 This is an interesting project. I really like the cardboard mock-up. That's a good idea. Keep it up, and keep the pictures coming. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piglet_74 Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 I meant to do the mock up too but don't have the time. I'm picking up the steel for mine using the Fab. Mild Steel Firepot design that has been posted. I can torch out all the sections from a 5 foot piece of 3/8" thick by 6" wide flat stock from the local welding supply. They're charging about $25 for the piece. I bought a Centaur Clinker breaker to use with it. Please post pics as you progress with it. It would be great to see. Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3lbhammer Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 update the parts for the firepot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piglet_74 Posted August 18, 2010 Share Posted August 18, 2010 I like the cut and bend access channels you made. Saves on some welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3lbhammer Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share Posted August 19, 2010 Thanks, I think they need to be some deeper. I will report more in a couple of weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3lbhammer Posted September 24, 2010 Author Share Posted September 24, 2010 Here is an update of my forge project. Please excuse my welding as skill which I am new at. My instructors are Dr. Trial and Prof. Error. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greebe Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 Looks nice. Seems like you would want the fire pot to sit lower or flush with the rest of the table though. Or are you going to put fire brick down? Greebe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3lbhammer Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 Greebe, I plan to have a refractory of some sort on the table up to the level or a little higher than the fire pot and a side draft chemney. The whole now has welded angle iron on each side and the fire pot will be just set in the table and not welded in. I moved the pipe legs out to the corners from the original plan. I had planed to have a brick box and the whole forge set on it but changed my plan to just use the pipe as the legs and the 3/16 inch square as the bracing. It is quite ridged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 Your tag team instructors, Dr Trial and Prof Error seem to be doing a good job about it. I might suggest some reading before their next practical though. The Lincoln and Miller websites have good information, and I have a link for the Army welding manualhttp://www.metalwebn...rmy-welding.pdf Have fun and keep at it. The forge looks good, I like how the fire pot lip lines up with the table lip. Phil http://www.metalwebnews.com/ed.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3lbhammer Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 Phil thanks for your suggestions of the welding resources. I will look at them. I you notice I have made some additions inspired by the forge build of Kevan in recent posting. YOU can see the addition of a frame to the rear of the table to put a side draft chimney. The access channels are the same hight as the side rail of the table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greebe Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 Cool. I wonder if it would be easier to use firebrick? That way if you have a brick break you can easily replace it. Firebrick might be more costly though. I just got finished repairing my little forge, and I can say that I am getting tired of refractories. I always seem to have cracking problems over time. I like working with solid fuels but I am getting tired of my forge. I need to just build a new one that is better I guess or go with propane. Good luck on your forge. I will be looking forward to seeming how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3lbhammer Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 I am considering using either firebrick, or some clay fill, or some pumice stone to fill the table up to the level of the fire pot. Most of the table will not need to be to fire resistant just near the firepot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piglet_74 Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Looking good so far! I went to smartflix.com and rented all of Steve Bleile's DVDs on welding and torch cutting. He covers alot of different processes and they use a camera with a welding filter on it to get some good shots of what a puddle should look like etc. I can sit and watch instructional videos like my wife watches the Kardashians (sp?) :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3lbhammer Posted September 28, 2010 Author Share Posted September 28, 2010 Greebe, I plan to have a refractory of some sort on the table up to the level or a little higher than the fire pot and a side draft chemney. The whole now has welded angle iron on each side and the fire pot will be just set in the table and not welded in. I moved the pipe legs out to the corners from the original plan. I had planed to have a brick box and the whole forge set on it but changed my plan to just use the pipe as the legs and the 3/8 inch square as the bracing. It is quite ridged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3lbhammer Posted September 28, 2010 Author Share Posted September 28, 2010 The whole setup is not very heavy, but it is stiff and ridge. It will have to hold fire brick, fuel and what ever iron is being heated. Not really lots of weight. But I wanted the forge to stay put. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 I'm glad I clicked on this thread! I am in the process of building a new forge myself and I love the idea of the firepot cut outs being bent down instead of cutting them completely out. Excellent! Excellent! I was thinking of welding a metal lip all the way around my pot but if I just bend those tabs out, I don't have to do that. Great job....keep it up and keep us posted! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3lbhammer Posted September 28, 2010 Author Share Posted September 28, 2010 Firyfurnace, Thanks for your encouragement and reply. I will keep you posted Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3lbhammer Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 Piglet-74, I did find a welding instruction book at Home depot Welders Handbook by Richard French. It only has one chapter on stick welders and welding but it has been a big help. I will look for the sources you suggested. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Roy Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 3lbhammer, here are my 2 cents. I built a similar forge about 5-6 years ago. I also used some bed rail for the frame and legs, 3/8" plate for the firebox. The top of my fire box is level with the top of the table. I don't use refractory or firebrick on the table or the firebox and after all this time there is no sign of heat damage anywhere. My table is made of sheet steel, probably 14 gage, welded to the angle frame. There really isn't much load on it and it is holding up very well to regular use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3lbhammer Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 Pat thanks I can get those twin bed springs for $20 a lot cheaper than the supply angle iron around here. Thanks for your comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokin' Coke Forge Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 I've used firebrick to surface my forge, rather than refractory material - much less messy (as if that really matters . . . this is blacksmithing after all) I did learn that if you will use firebrick, you don't really need the thick stuff. You can use the 1 1/4 inch bricks to save on weight without significant sacrifice on the heat protection. Also, definitely find a wholesale supply house to buy the brick from. I paid $1.45 per brick from a wholesaler, rather then $4.50 to $7.50 per brick from those theiving fireplace supply stores in my part of south eastern PA. - Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3lbhammer Posted November 9, 2010 Author Share Posted November 9, 2010 Jim Thanks for the suggestion I will look that up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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