oscer Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 Hi fellas ,I saw a Peter Wright anvil today,it works out to about $2.12 per lb. Its within driving distance,it's about the size I think I want and the ball bearing bounced more than 2/3 the height I dropped it from. The only reason I'm typing right now instead of cutting off a stump is when I put a straight edge on it, it had an 1/8" of day light under it. I don't know how much that matters. It doesn't sound like they are beating his door down so I took a chance and left it go till I could run this by all you folks with the experience that I lack. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Oscer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 1/8th inch sag isn't very much. If the rest of the anvil, ie. edges, horn, hardy hole, are in pretty good shape, sounds to me like a keeper. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 I agree with George. If you otherwise like the anvil, don't worry about the sway. You can use the sway too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddog Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 1/8" isnt much wear at all. Most people find that low spot more useful than a flat surface. Mine has 1/2" of sway and I get a lot of use out of the curved surface. Main thing is the plate. If the plate looks good, its a good deal. How much does it weigh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscer Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 Thanks for the avise. It weighs 118 lb. I'm More interested in machining than forging but I think once I get started I could become hooked. This will be my first anvil. It probably will serve me well. Oscer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 DON"T MACHINE THE FACE FLAT! now that that is out of the way; as to price vs value: out here that would be a decent price to pay for a usable anvil. Back where I used to live that would be pretty high. Where you live I can't say as you don't tell us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 He's in central PA. (It's buried in his profile.) I see a lot of anvils for sale in PA. Or at least I used to, before craiglook went down. I guess what it boils down to is how badly you want it, and whether you can afford to spend the $250. A little bit of sway is no reason not to buy it, if everything else looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscer Posted October 20, 2010 Author Share Posted October 20, 2010 I was just remembering a job I used to do on a 66" bullard at work. I Work in a small steel mill where they forge axles and train wheels. This machine Take an ingot (relatively short and stout) and passes it through a cylindricle hammer (my term) it has 4 dies or hammers that are trapozoids with a radius on the narrow edge. It's hard to explain but there is no anvil all 4 dies pound from all 4 directions and in one heat turn an ingot into two axles complete with journals. It then goes to aset of 3 torches where its ends are burned off and it's burner into two separate axle. So before long these hammers are all pounded out of sorts and they go through some heating and welding process and then we would mount them in a jig and turn them back into spec. so I,m wondering if we at home can't simulate this process? Oscer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 I just bought a Wilkonson last week for $2.25 lb and am happy at that price. I would buy it before it gets away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 I was just remembering a job I used to do on a 66" bullard at work. I Work in a small steel mill where they forge axles and train wheels. This machine Take an ingot (relatively short and stout) and passes it through a cylindricle hammer (my term) it has 4 dies or hammers that are trapozoids with a radius on the narrow edge. It's hard to explain but there is no anvil all 4 dies pound from all 4 directions and in one heat turn an ingot into two axles complete with journals. It then goes to aset of 3 torches where its ends are burned off and it's burner into two separate axle. So before long these hammers are all pounded out of sorts and they go through some heating and welding process and then we would mount them in a jig and turn them back into spec. so I,m wondering if we at home can't simulate this process? Oscer That's called a counter blow hammer and sure you can build or buy one for your home operation. The real question being is your home operation going to be able to justify the cost? That isn't enough sway to worry about if the rest of the anvil is in decent condition. Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscer Posted October 21, 2010 Author Share Posted October 21, 2010 I did buy it today. It's settin in my shop on a slightly crooked stump I have an idea how to level it though without cutting it too short.I'm gonna rig up 2 parallel rails beside it and I have a shop made bridge that attaches to my router. Using a straight bit you can easily level the top of the stump. Frosty,I didn't mean could you copy the forging system but could you copy the process they use to weld up and remachine the dies for it. Anyway I think I'll be satisfied with it the way it is. Thanks to all for Your prompt replies which enabled me to get it before it was gone. Oscer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 Oscer; remember that you don't need to level the entire stump---just where the anvil sits and if you route out only the anvil base shape you then have a pocket that holds the anvil in place! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscer Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 Oscer; remember that you don't need to level the entire stump---just where the anvil sits and if you route out only the anvil base shape you then have a pocket that holds the anvil in place! Sounds like a plan. I didn't get around to trimming it down yet, triing to finish up other project . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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