Kenny O Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 (edited) I have taken on a project from Mark Asperys book Vol l, I needed to make some bottom tools, but I 'm sure I would end up crackin my anvil if I tried to do any heavy smooshing, it's only a 125# Trenton. Anyhow here are the steps I took and where I am today What I am unsure about is the stand, should It be a stump, or should I fab up a tripod of sorts. do I drill holes to mount it, or have it fasten without putting holes in it? If I make the stand of steel do I weld it to the stand? Too many options. In case anyone wants to know the plate is 6" x 7" x 1.50" thick , the Hardy hole is 0.9375" (15/16"). Edited October 2, 2010 by 2Dogs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thingmaker3 Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 The more securely you fasten it, the easier it will be to smuush the steel. I can't think of any reason why some holes might be bad. They certaily would let you use some timberlock screws to attach to a stump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny O Posted October 2, 2010 Author Share Posted October 2, 2010 I just Googled Timberlock screws, I haven't heard of them. So, they are stronger than a lag screw of the same diameter? putting it on a stump would be good if the screws wont break . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NRunals Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 I am grateful for your post, I've been making bottom tools lately and using my hardie hole to fit the shank. It's been working, and I'm fairly sure my anvil can handle it (250#) but I've been meaning to make a heading tool just for a little more freedom to really smash the steel. It'd be a real shame to ruin my anvil that way. Although Tom Clark said if you're able you should always make your own bottom tools because you can make them fit exactly to your hardie hole, and as they cool in the hole they contract so they will never get stuck in the process of making them. Maybe he would use a heading tool that was a slightly larger hole and do the final fitting in the actual hardie hole. Anyone have any insight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 I am grateful for your post, I've been making bottom tools lately and using my hardie hole to fit the shank. It's been working, and I'm fairly sure my anvil can handle it (250#) but I've been meaning to make a heading tool just for a little more freedom to really smash the steel. It'd be a real shame to ruin my anvil that way. Although Tom Clark said if you're able you should always make your own bottom tools because you can make them fit exactly to your hardie hole, and as they cool in the hole they contract so they will never get stuck in the process of making them. Maybe he would use a heading tool that was a slightly larger hole and do the final fitting in the actual hardie hole. Anyone have any insight? Sure, make them where ever you want, but fit them to your anvil hardy hole hot. Just be sure to make the tang a little long. Then, if they are a real tight fit, a little tap with the hammer that is likely in your hand anyway will loosen them easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 2Dogs, I know it can take 11 hours to drive across So. Orygun, but if you're within 3 hrs from Klamath Falls, Get aholt of me a few days in advance, I'll get the local boys in a bunch and we can do an afternoon of bottom tool whacking. I've got blocks in 1 inch, 15/16, 7/8, and 3/4 if I remember right. It's actually a fair bit of a good time, we all got pretty good at it when we did the CBA conference workshop 3yrs back or so. Bring a pile of beer, the rest is on me. 541-892-2208 mike h Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny O Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 2Dogs, I know it can take 11 hours to drive across So. Orygun, but if you're within 3 hrs from Klamath Falls, Get aholt of me a few days in advance, I'll get the local boys in a bunch and we can do an afternoon of bottom tool whacking. I've got blocks in 1 inch, 15/16, 7/8, and 3/4 if I remember right. It's actually a fair bit of a good time, we all got pretty good at it when we did the CBA conference workshop 3yrs back or so. Bring a pile of beer, the rest is on me. 541-892-2208 mike h Thanks for the generous offer, I haven't found anyone around Medford to hammer with. There was someone in Central Point but I don't remember his name. I would enjoy hookin up for some forging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 And don't forget that a hardy hole may not be a perfect square! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny O Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 And don't forget that a hardy hole may not be a perfect square! Yes, I discovered that, but thanks for that bit of datum that I have heard no where else. I have two anvils one Hardy hole is 7/8 one is 15/16, when I formed a hardy in each, I looked at the shapes, one looked more like a parallelogram. Maybe I'm just gullible, I assumed the holes would be equilateral. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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