TheWoodsman Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Alright, i want to get into blacksmithing, but still want to be able to transport my equipment. I figured i could start small and build my skills making bow tips (because i make longbows), and steel rings to put around flutes ( becuase i'm making them too) and maybe knives. I was hoping you guys could give me some insight as to what i need to do this. First steel, then smaller anvil( can you help me on this what is a good size that has good surface area, but not to heavy),hammers, tongs, and somekind of small forge ( this is where i need the most help, making a "small forge".) Thanks P.S. how would i make arrow heads. something like this http://www.longbowandarrow.co.uk/hector-cole-arrowhead-short-type-10-533-p.asp current list a 2lb. ball-pein hammer? pair of tongs small steel 5-10 anvil firepit with bellow for forge? or does anyone know of small portable one small%2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John NC Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Can you define 'bow tips'? I'm a bit of a bowyer myself, but I'm not sure what you mean by that phrase. For a portable forging set-up, a farriers trailer would be ideal. See if there's a farrier near you and give him a call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thecelticforge Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 http://anvilfire.com/FAQs/getstart/how-to_v2.htm This is an excellent article on an excellent site to give you an idea of what you need. :~) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWoodsman Posted September 27, 2010 Author Share Posted September 27, 2010 Can you define 'bow tips'? I'm a bit of a bowyer myself, but I'm not sure what you mean by that phrase. For a portable forging set-up, a farriers trailer would be ideal. See if there's a farrier near you and give him a call. fixed it, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Broadheads? That would be cool. Or do you mean steel tips on the ends of the bow itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWoodsman Posted September 27, 2010 Author Share Posted September 27, 2010 Broadheads? That would be cool. Or do you mean steel tips on the ends of the bow itself? yeah man broadheads, any ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 A good sized sledgehammer head makes a good small anvil and can be had at garage/yard sales or flea markets for reasonable. Forget the 5-10lb anvils, most are for jewelry making and not hard enough to work steel on well. a hole in the ground and something to blow will make a fine forge. A forge is literally a fire place no need to overthink it. Soem practical options to add to the list are: Chisels, punches, files, hack saw, small swage and bic. Is your intent to work in period? If so what century and area? Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWoodsman Posted September 27, 2010 Author Share Posted September 27, 2010 A good sized sledgehammer head makes a good small anvil and can be had at garage/yard sales or flea markets for reasonable. Forget the 5-10lb anvils, most are for jewelry making and not hard enough to work steel on well. a hole in the ground and something to blow will make a fine forge. A forge is literally a fire place no need to overthink it. Soem practical options to add to the list are: Chisels, punches, files, hack saw, small swage and bic. Is your intent to work in period? If so what century and area? Frosty the Lucky. I just like times that were before me, anything 1700's and before i like so i'm into stuff like making longbows, blacksmithing and using no power tools, no specific era but thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 I am also not using power at this time. Lots of fileing and sanding. Good for you. A large sledge hammer head as mentioned by Frosty would be great for doing small work such as broadheads. Try not to beat two hammer heads directly together though. There is the chance of one shattering. No matter how small your work is, always, and I mean always, wear safety glasses. Good luck! Happy hunting too. Mark<>< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jreed Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 A small forge is the easy part. Check out my blog link in my signature line. For the anvil Frosty has a great idea or a chunk of rail road track would work well for you also. A 2lb ball peen will work for you fine. I use a 2lb drilling hammer. This is one of that endeavors that proves there is more then one way to skin a cat. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 Your list looks OK but if one comes up I use a 28kg London pattern anvil to make bodkins so keep looking. Another accessory that is really handy is a hardy tool that looks like a small bick. If its about the size and shape of your arrow taper its really great to make the cone on, saves lots of work. Some cone tongs we call them are handy. They have one jaw the shape of the cone and slip inside the cone when you are forging the point. The other jaw is shaped to go round the cone. Both the hardy bick and tongs are good projects in their own right. Other than that, get in and have a go :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWoodsman Posted September 28, 2010 Author Share Posted September 28, 2010 Your list looks OK but if one comes up I use a 28kg London pattern anvil to make bodkins so keep looking. Another accessory that is really handy is a hardy tool that looks like a small bick. If its about the size and shape of your arrow taper its really great to make the cone on, saves lots of work. Some cone tongs we call them are handy. They have one jaw the shape of the cone and slip inside the cone when you are forging the point. The other jaw is shaped to go round the cone. Both the hardy bick and tongs are good projects in their own right. Other than that, get in and have a go Think you can show me a few picks, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 Have a look at this site. Hector will show you more in one youtube session than I could in a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWoodsman Posted September 28, 2010 Author Share Posted September 28, 2010 Have a look at this site. Hector will show you more in one youtube session than I could in a month. what site? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 http://www.evado.co.uk/Hector%20Cole/index.html Links are not underlined in the text. Hopefully out admin will change that. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 Sorry about that but it will be worth it to see this bloke knock up a bodkin. Makes it look positively easy............... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 Sorry about that but it will be worth it to see this bloke knock up a bodkin. Makes it look positively easy............... Say Rob, do you call women bodkins in the Blue Mtns of OZ? Here in the states we refer to knocking up as impregnating a gal. On a serious note, great link thanks. Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 You can also start out with a chunk of steel 6"x6"x4" weld a point on the bottom to drive into a log to keep it stationary nail it in to a stump. I saw this on a website. I have made small forges. Learn to walk before you try running. Find your local blacksmithing org a wealth of info and good friends Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 Frosty, it really depends on your version of english.............. Seriously though, that bloke really does make it look easy. I find that I often tend to burn my thin socket when trying to forge the actual point. Maybe its time for me to make a gasser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 I noticed that he had a rather fat tip on his tongs and he kept the tongs in the socket after forming the socket. Maybe that helped keep the socket intact. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 Yep, a set of tongs with one conical jaw and the other to match it really helps holding the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 Come on now! Remember the Sherlock Holmes story "The Adventure of the Engineers Thumb" with the famous line "Sorry to knock you up so early Dr" which always gave rise to speculations in American readers... Or the first evening with an exchange student from Sri Lanka that lead into a discussion over "knocking off the lights"... Welding cones is easier with real wrought iron. I would think about using a "one firebrick" propane forge to get used to forging small stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 You are right Thomas, when the cone is made it is really hard to get the great big lump on the end at forging temperature without burning the thin cone even if I don't crank very much. If you don't crank enough you never really heat it, if you crank too much you risk buring it. One solution I tried was to draw a taper on some mild that fitted into the socket which worked fairly well till the b****y things fell off the rod and were lost in the fire. If I was going to do lots of these I would be really serious about a small gasser. Guess what the next project is?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.