bajajoaquin Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 Okay, so I'm still dithering around on my fabricated anvils.... Based on information in other threads, I did some investigating on different hard-facing. The "ArmorWear" from McKay was deemed by the sales rep to be more for wear than impact (although the spec sheet says differently). He recommended two Stoody products, the wire version of 2110 rod and another wire. The problem is that they're only available in 33lb rolls (my machine can only hold 10, and it's a lot of $), and they're 0.45 solid wire. My 180-amp Lincoln is only good to 0.035. The other options are rods, and I don't have a stick machine. Sooooo, I'm leaning back to the ArmorWear. It may not be ideal, but I can get it in 10lb rolls, and it fits my welder. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpotter Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 I have done this and it is not worth it I would like to say trust me but I was told by others who had done this not to do it so I will just tell you what I did, and you can go ahead and give it a shot. I was given a 6 inch thick piece of plate it was A36 I paid to have an anvil shaped object cut out of it, it is about 300lbs then I milled and ground a horn on it. The anvil was looking sweet and I only had a couple of hundred in it then I milled the top and took it to a place where a friend of mine worked and we did the hard face on a big machine designed for hardfacing machinerey for the mines. I then ground the surface on the mother of all surface grinders to a mirror shine and milled all the sides of the anvil and polished the horn, this thing was beautiful I then did the ball bearing test and it goes thud, this anvil is so dead it has no rebound it is like hitting a sand bag. I bought a Buddin and a Pedinghause and use my anvil shaped object for a stand to spray paint stuff on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njanvilman Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 I have done this and it is not worth it I would like to say trust me but I was told by others who had done this not to do it so I will just tell you what I did, and you can go ahead and give it a shot. I was given a 6 inch thick piece of plate it was A36 I paid to have an anvil shaped object cut out of it, it is about 300lbs then I milled and ground a horn on it. The anvil was looking sweet and I only had a couple of hundred in it then I milled the top and took it to a place where a friend of mine worked and we did the hard face on a big machine designed for hardfacing machinerey for the mines. I then ground the surface on the mother of all surface grinders to a mirror shine and milled all the sides of the anvil and polished the horn, this thing was beautiful I then did the ball bearing test and it goes thud, this anvil is so dead it has no rebound it is like hitting a sand bag. I bought a Buddin and a Pedinghause and use my anvil shaped object for a stand to spray paint stuff on. It sounds like your 'anvil' got annealed from the welding and cooling. Perhaps it needs to be brought up to a red heat and quenched in rapidly moving water? What do you got to loose, except a spray paint stand? Just thinkin... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpotter Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 How do you heat 300lbs? I bought a peddinghause 275 lbs anvil, I love it. everyone needs to get the anvil making bug out of their system one way or another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajajoaquin Posted August 27, 2010 Author Share Posted August 27, 2010 How do you heat 300lbs? I bought a peddinghause 275 lbs anvil, I love it. everyone needs to get the anvil making bug out of their system one way or another. Although you're replying to a different part of this thread, I'm happy that I don't have to heat 300 lbs. I only have to heat one of the 85lb sections, and I plan on using a weed burner attached to a 20# propane tank. Lots of BTUs, but less danger of overheating. I'm not so much getting the bug out of my system as moving forward on acquiring an anvil. Not a lot of anvils in San Diego. I still plan on buying one, and I'm still searching. I'm just not letting that get the way of setting up a small smithy. My fabricated anvil probably won't be much good. But it will be a heck of a lot better than the one I have now.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 this thing was beautiful I then did the ball bearing test and it goes thud, this anvil is so dead it has no rebound it is like hitting a sand bag. Very strange. Even straight up mild steel anvils usually aren't all that bad, as long as they're heavy and rigid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpotter Posted August 27, 2010 Share Posted August 27, 2010 I guess it is relative I have it setting next to a budden and have used both and you can feel the difference same with the peddinghause the difference is huge but if all I had was my home made one I would think this is awesome I rule. I did think that until i got the other two and started using them. the budden is harder than the peddinghause and the rebound is crazy. My Home made one is fine but if I actually had to pay for all the stuff it would have been a very expensive lump of steel since it cost me about 200 bucks it is a great anvil for the money but not a great anvil, at least I can say I did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jura T Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 we did the hard face on a big machine designed for hardfacing machinerey for the mines. I then ground the surface on the mother of all surface grinders to a mirror shine and milled all the sides of the anvil and polished the horn, this thing was beautiful I then did the ball bearing test and it goes thud, this anvil is so dead it has no rebound it is like hitting a sand bag. Usually the hard facing stuff needs to be work hardened to get the full hardness. Did you do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 ]Yep what Minotaur just said, hardfacing rod work hardens. I would not recommend hardfacing your anvil, I would cut a profile into it (Brazeal style) they work great, here is a picture of one that I built. All you need is a torch and a grinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge9001 Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 clinton nice anvil in the back ground by the bucket. if you don't need it I'ld be glad to move it out of you way free of charge.lol seriously nice homemade anvil thingy looks useful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 ]Yep what Minotaur just said, hardfacing rod work hardens. I would not recommend hardfacing your anvil, I would cut a profile into it (Brazeal style) they work great, here is a picture of one that I built. All you need is a torch and a grinder. [attachment=25195:DSCN2366.JPG Ya know Clinton,I couldn`t help but notice that if someone were to drill some holes of diminishing diameter down one or more edges of what you are calling an anvil and then cut through the center of those holes then that person would have one heck of a swage block don`t you think? May be something to consider seeing as how you already have a nice,solid stand fitted and ready to go. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 Oh that is my 93 lb Trexton, given to me by a friend of my father. He was a farrier and he cut grooves in the table to turn the shoes. He passed away several years back I think one of his relatives took over the shoeing but they did not want this anvil for some reason, so my dad took it to give to me. So I appreciate the offer to help me clear things up but this one will stay with me ( I just got a tongue lashing my girlfriend ran into something in my shop) gotta go clean things up this Brazeal style anvil is a tool that every shop should have, I think it cost me about $80.00 for the chunk of steel and a #3 cutting tip is $15.00 a couple of grinding wheels and you are up and running. You can draw like crazy over that fuller, add a striker and its like a powerhammer. I do need to build a heavier stand it does move a little with the 1 1/4'' pipe for legs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 Mainely bob- That is a great idea ( one that Brian and I have talked about before) and I just happen to know a guy who has a water jet machine Hmmmm..... to the scrap yard!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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