finishes

[kozu]

If i dont want a beeswax finish, i like the color of the steel after busting all the forging scale, what are my options.

[John B]

If i dont want a beeswax finish, i like the color of the steel after busting all the forging scale, what are my options.

Hi Kozu, Not knowing your location or where the item is to be used/sited, it is just a general response, if you want to keep the steel colour one option is a clear lacquer, this can be a matte, semi matte or gloss finish.

[ThomasPowers]

Well since you *must* live where I live I can say you need to do nothing. Out here in the desert ironwork will keep it's "look" for a long time---watch out for swamp-coolers though!

Of course if you live where I used to live you would have a 50:50 chance on walking a piece from the shop to the house without it rusting on you. Finishes include lacquers, varnishes, waxes, paint, powder coating, plating, making the piece out of stainless and passivating or electro-polishing. *ALL* of which can give you the look you want if applied correctly.

[kozu]

I just finished forging a set of bbq tools, mild steel, strickly outdoor use, i busted all the scale off, can anyone suggest a finish for outdoor use.My first thread was not specific enough, thanks for the input. Sean.

[bigfootnampa]

I just finished forging a set of bbq tools, mild steel, strickly outdoor use, i busted all the scale off, can anyone suggest a finish for outdoor use.My first thread was not specific enough, thanks for the input. Sean.

You cannot use most finishes on something like that because the finish will break down in the heat and get on/in your food. I would just oil them up with walnut oil and reoil as needed. You could use regular veggy oil but the walnut oil will dry and so I like it better for the handle ends. No oil finish is going to give you much weather protection though and varnishes or lacquers are not good for you so regular attention is the answer. Clean and oil frequently just as you would with a nice gun.

[thecelticforge]

When I was dumb kid, I trapped fur so I could have money to buy gas and hamburgers. I used to soak walnut hulls in water for a week then bring it to a boil, add some paraffin wax, and heat the traps just enough to burn off the factory oils. Then I dipped them in the mix a couple of times allowing the wax to cool in between. I can't remember any of my traps ever showing rust and over half were in the water for muskrat and beaver.

[Sukellos]

When I was dumb kid, I trapped fur so I could have money to buy gas and hamburgers. I used to soak walnut hulls in water for a week then bring it to a boil, add some paraffin wax, and heat the traps just enough to burn off the factory oils. Then I dipped them in the mix a couple of times allowing the wax to cool in between. I can't remember any of my traps ever showing rust and over half were in the water for muskrat and beaver.

We must have been dumb kids about the same time. It's been awhile since I've seen any kid make enough trapping to pay for gas 'n' burgers. Of course I had to take on a construction job to be able to afford to take a girl out.

As for metal finishes, you can heat the metal to a black heat and dip in any good carbonaceous material, liquid or powder. Then reheat till it quits smoking. I've used leather scraps, old oil and even dried horse or cow dung. Not sure I'd do that to any food handling gear.:blink:

[ThomasPowers]

Food handling gear: season them as you would season a cast iron pot. If you want the metal to shine through---make the next set out of stainless and don't bother to coat them.

I usually cover my camp cooking iron stuff (not the pots!) with paraffin wax. thin layer put on below burning temp. Food safe, cheap, easily repaired.