kerisman Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 My home blacksmithing setup is almost ready to begin forging! I've been meeting with a local group and using coal forges, but my home setup will use a small gas forge. I'd like to hear any suggestions about changing technique when moving to gas. Specifically: If I'm working on something small (say, a hook) and the whole piece is red hot, how will I grip it without damaging it? With the coal forge, I've been using vise grips and they tend to put "bite marks" on the steel, so I usually just avoid heating that area (not possible if the whole piece is in the uniformly-hot chamber of a gas forge) My gas forge is SMALL. Any tips on handling situations where I'll forge, say, a large loop in a rod? Do I just have to make sure to do it in one heat? any other advice on moving from coal to gas? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCal Dave Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 It seems like you need a set of tongs for holding the piece your working on. If you can't get one soon, then you could file off the teeth of your vise grips so they don't leave marks. Good luck. Also, with a gas forge, it is more difficult to burn up the material you are heating. Gas forges may not get as hot as coal, but that depends on the size of the box and number of burners. With a one burner forge, you can heat 3/4" to 1" material up to an orange heat without trouble, but it is more difficult to get to a yellow heat. I find myself returning my material back to the gas forge many more times than a coal forge. It is very much a timing thing for each type of forge. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Planning the order of operations so you do the work you need to where you need to before the piece gets too big to fit in the forge. Depending on your forge you may be able to "cheat" a bit by opening the front door and having a stack of firebricks spaced slightly out from the forge so you can slip larger forms into the slot between the firebricks and the forge. Having melted a piece in my propane forge getting something hot enough doesn't seem to be a problem. Dragon's breath and "short" handling tools do not go together well---time to build yourself some tongs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(and learn to keep them cool!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 Long tongs are a very good idea, dragon breath is bad to get on you. With proper tongs fitted to the work it is difficult to mark the work by gripping it. Using a "convenience bend" or two makes things fit, then you straighten them on the last heat. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kerisman Posted April 23, 2010 Author Share Posted April 23, 2010 Thanks, these are good tips. "Convenience bends" will definitely be needed as my forge has an opening around 4" square. I also like the idea of stacking fire bricks a short distance from the opening of the forge. I'll have to see how much heat I can retain that way. It also sounds like it's time to learn how to make tongs, which I've always wanted to do anyway (though vise grips have served me well starting out)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 Looks like your next project is at least one set of tongs suitable for your most often used stock. As for odd shapes and gas forges that is why users often have one side made up of fire bricks so they can change the size and shape of their forge as they need. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 Making tongs: A couple of ways to do things. POZ method is easier to figure out since you are not forging the flat of the pivot but rather leaving that as is. The "one heat" method is a very old design that is historically proven, and Brian's prowess is inspiring too. Clean up the mating surfaces of the pivot with a file after punching or drilling and before riveting, you will have better results no matter what method you use. The better your hammer work the less filing needed. Finished length overall of 14-18 inches is good, but having a longer pair with a gasser to pull pieces out is nice. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kerisman Posted April 23, 2010 Author Share Posted April 23, 2010 Making tongs: A couple of ways to do things. POZ method is easier to figure out since you are not forging the flat of the pivot but rather leaving that as is. The "one heat" method is a very old design that is historically proven, and Brian's prowess is inspiring too. Clean up the mating surfaces of the pivot with a file after punching or drilling and before riveting, you will have better results no matter what method you use. The better your hammer work the less filing needed. Finished length overall of 14-18 inches is good, but having a longer pair with a gasser to pull pieces out is nice. Phil I think you meant to post this link instead of the first one: There are enough complexities to these forms that I think some clay practice is in order! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat pete Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 yea u need tongs...propane is way cleaner than coal...propane makes more scale too...but as far as hot goes BTU = BTU....you can weld in a propane , u can weld in coal.... my pieces will get glowing yellow hot and not burn in propane so you arent chasing yourself with more than 1 piece in the fire....coal you gotta watch or you will burn the metal...tongs can be made pretty simply or you can buy them from a couple of guys on here or they come up on ebay form time to time...you can always rework old tongs to the size and shape you want....you definately need them....cleaning up your vice grips will stop marring your work.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 I think you meant to post this link instead of the first one: http://www.iforgeiro...at-tong-blank/. There are enough complexities to these forms that I think some clay practice is in order! oops. thanks Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted April 23, 2010 Share Posted April 23, 2010 I have big gas forge I made a rake to push-in and pull out small items then you can grab them from the edge of the opening. One of the nice things is you can set the temp so if you putin 10 pieces they all are the same temp. You just keep working them and putting them back in is needed. Cant beat them for production work. I perfer coal but they each have there place. There are lots of classes on line on making tongs good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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