K. Bryan Morgan Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 I made a couple of fireplace pokers and a coal poker for my forge. I like the oval handle better than the simple round. And I like the riveted poker better than the split one. How it turned out at least. The split one is 3/8" sq and the riveted is 1/2" sq. The coal poker is 3/8" round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Not bad at all Bryan. 3/8" is a bit small to split for this kind of thing, next time you're down I'll show you how to weld and another alternative for this kind of poker. I much prefer 1/2" sq for splitting on these and that's a lot easier and faster than the welded ones. I agree about the handle too, an oval loop or even just folding the shaft in half makes a much better handle. A hand needs some leverage to twist or pry or even just push and pull, all pokerish tasks. I make either oval loops or welded bundles, or sometimes the fancier basket, twisted or not handles. A basket twisted or not is the next step after a welded bundle. At any rate a handle needs a defined bit of texture to be a good handle, even for a wieny roaster. Well done Bryan. Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Thanks Frosty, that means bunches to me. I will be making a few of these as I have the stock to do it and its just good practice not to mention fun. The next thing I'm gonna work on is maybe a tenon joint in one. Just for the experience of doing it. May not be the normal way to do it. But how am I going to learn if I don't try things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 A tennon in a fire poker not NORMAL? You Live in North Pole, surely you can't be worried about perceptions of normalcy! What the hey, do what I do, make the odd or uncommon a trademark. Frankly I can think of several places a tenon would work very nicely in fire tools For instance, say you draw the handle end down to about 1/2-3/4 the size of the parent stock and forge a tenon on the end. Now take another piece and widen slightly, punch and drift a hole that slides smoothly down the handle section, bend a 90* with enough leg to make a comfortable handle width. Twist it and punch a hole for the tenon, slide it over the poker, tighten that end a bit and pein the tenon. The coolest thing I discovered about learning something new was all of a sudden I have bunches of ideas for where to use it. Some good some not so good true. Still. Things are starting to look up for the July meeting, we're looking for a clinician and have a couple seriously good guys interested. I'll leave names off till we work out details but July is looking to be a good month. Oh yeah, Art on Fire is this June too, there'll be the blacksmiths demos put on by our guys and the iron pour. It's been a seriously terrific show and fun to participate in. I'll be demoing, what I don't know but what the hey. Frosty the Lucky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 Believe me when I tell you, I have never worried about perceptions of normalcy ever. That is just outstanding, sounds like we are going to have a fun summer. I went to the Valley Arts Alliance website, it didn't show any dates for the Art on Fire show. Just that it was in June. It's funny you should mention that type of tenon. I had considered that exact thing yesterday. Now I have to do it. And one for the hooky thingy on the end of the poker too. Oh, what have I gotten myself into. I hope my input for the group has been helpful. I know I'm a long way from everyone else, but I do enjoy participating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy seale Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 looks good kb, i made a couple out of 3/8 sq. and rivited them...but i used hi grade rivits...(read 16d nails cut to length)and so far no problems. but they are the shorter ones 18-20" for bbq's and such. keep on keepin om, jimmy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted February 20, 2010 Author Share Posted February 20, 2010 I got the 3/16th inch stock for the rivets at a local hardware, I think for 3 feet it was a 1.00. I didn't think of nails. Darn. That makes alot of sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Believe me when I tell you, I have never worried about perceptions of normalcy ever. That is just outstanding, sounds like we are going to have a fun summer. I went to the Valley Arts Alliance website, it didn't show any dates for the Art on Fire show. Just that it was in June. It's funny you should mention that type of tenon. I had considered that exact thing yesterday. Now I have to do it. And one for the hooky thingy on the end of the poker too. Oh, what have I gotten myself into. I hope my input for the group has been helpful. I know I'm a long way from everyone else, but I do enjoy participating. The "Art on Fire" event is scheduled for the weekend before the 4th of July. At least that's what it's been the last two years and I think it's becoming HOW IT IS seeing as the casters doing the iron pour want that weekend. I'm not sure but I will hear and I'll announce it here. Heck, it'll be posted to the club E-mail list too. What have you gotten into? Did someone forget to mention blacksmithing is addictive? It makes smallpox look hard to get. Never underestimate how much contribution good questions are. Posting pics of what you're doing is a solid contribution too. Oh yeah, nails are not only stronger than mild steel, they're also really malleable so make dandy rivets. Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted February 20, 2010 Author Share Posted February 20, 2010 Oh yeah, nails are not only stronger than mild steel, they're also really malleable so make dandy rivets. Now you tell me. :blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake pogrebinsky Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 :PBryan,it's great to see you making such progress,right on!You're obviously not wasting any of this nice weather we've had. If i may,i'd like to suggest something about orifices in general: They're always best slitted,vs punched.Especially as the stock gets smaller,as the distortion grows proportionately(punching is a one-sided process,or nearly so,and therefore unbalances the mass locally). Brian B's style of slitter geometry is exellent,you'll find it very easy to get comfortable with. One of the ways(of myriads,as usual in forging)is to slit the stock,forge the slit almost closed again,and taking a very high and localised heat,upset the slitted part.That restores some of the mass displaced by slitting.In the process the aperture is left round,so that the subsequent drift geometry is simpler-just a round taper. The photos illustrate the 3 steps:Slit,upset,and the finished drifted hole next to the twin of the original stock. This is just something to keep in mind,i don't want to impose anything on your learning process that you wouldn't be comfortable with.So just in case,it's a classier way to make a hole in any stock.1/2" sq.would be good for that,round-even better(as it'll torture you with the uncertainty of centering everything... ). What i need to do is get some WI your way.I may have a trip to FBKS coming up,if not,i can stick some in the mail.I'm really well supplied with the stuff lately,for a change.Just need to size it down for you,as it's mostly in 1 1/2" round. You're doing great,the very best of luck from down the valley here.Cheers,Jake. P.S.The above described upsetting usually distorts the daylights out of everything,shockingly so.But,is surprisingly easy to uncluster,as well.The entire process is VERY informative,general forging coordination-wise.But,needless to say,all of that is my,crackpot view...As always. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted February 20, 2010 Author Share Posted February 20, 2010 Jake, thanks very much for the insight. I will take any help I can get. I understand exactly what your explaining to me. Now I have to make a slitting chisel and a larger drift. I'm going to have to go to Alaska Steel and get some I sure am glad the days are longer. I'm gonna need the light. I would be grateful for the WI. I have been looking at some on Ebay and thinking about getting it. When would you be coming to Fairbanks. I would love to have you over. No forging required, it would just be nice to meet and greet. Oh, I didn't tell you, I'm getting a Rhino anvil. 242#. It will be here Wed. or Thur. next week. Can't hardly wait. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake pogrebinsky Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 That's fantastic about your anvil,Bryan,very happy for you-excellent! I may be in Fbks early in March,if so will holler(not sure if i could get out to visit,but will sooner or later,and would definitely hope to do so around the forge). If not,i'll mail you some,or send it with someone going to town.Maybe they can leave it somewhere for you,AKFeed or the like.I need to forge it down to some sencible for you shape,1/2"-ish,i'd imagine(?) My computer is woefully dsiseased,i'm afeered,and i'll update when i can.Better send this before it crashes again.Best regards,Jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake pogrebinsky Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 That's fantastic about your anvil,Bryan,very happy for you-excellent! I may be in Fbks early in March,if so will holler(not sure if i could get out to visit,but will sooner or later,and would definitely hope to do so around the forge). If not,i'll mail you some,or send it with someone going to town.Maybe they can leave it somewhere for you,AKFeed or the like.I need to forge it down to some sencible for you shape,1/2"-ish,i'd imagine(?) My computer is woefully dsiseased,i'm afeered,and i'll update when i can.Better send this before it crashes again.Best regards,Jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted February 20, 2010 Author Share Posted February 20, 2010 Sure Jake that sounds fine. Mail will work no problem if for some reason we can't hook up. I've been thinking about making things with WI and using high carbon for the parts that need to be. Like in the olden days. Axes, knives, and the like. Chisels, slitters? Anyway, when you get closer to your trip or when you get the WI sized let me know and I'll IM you my address. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steeler Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Hey Jake, Thanks for the tips and photos about punching. It makes perfect sense to me and now I gotta try it out. I am a learner and punched my first hole yesterday instead of taking it to the drill press. That may not seem significant to those of you with lots of experience, but this 60 year old felt like a kid again with a new toy . Thirsty for knowledge,Steeler. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtWerkz Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Lot's of good info here, thanks guys. KBM, don't worry your not the only noob here. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted March 5, 2010 Author Share Posted March 5, 2010 Thanks Artwerkz, I'm having a blast and enjoying getting things done. I got my gas forge yesterday. It's a beauty. Well ok its a metal box with special bricks and ceramic boards in it. But better than anything I would be able to make for a long long time. Two burner with a side opening door for bigger things. I went to the fireplace store today and got some fire bricks for the openings and to set it on the bench with. I'll make a stand for it with wheels that will make it easy to maneuver around the shop. Also got a 40# propane tank today too. I think that just about is everything I need at the moment. Got the anvil, forge, good stump. Need to bring the coal forge into the shed and get it vented outside at some point. That for the future. In a few months anyway. I'm getting a CO/Co2 detector for the shed. And also getting durarock for the floor so I don't burn it up. So getting things set up. Easier to work inside for sure. Once I get everything set up tomorrow I'll take some pics and post them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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