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I Forge Iron

Forge Cart ????


newbiesmith

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So guys I wanted to run my plan by you for your thoughts. I'm looking to upgrade from my rivet forge. One of the things I'm finding that I need is to have the forge easier to move. So this is why I'm thinking about combineding:

This: Cart

With This: Fire Pot

So the plan is to cut a hole in the cart big enough to set the firepot in, and tack it with a couple tack welds so that even though it's hanging it doesn't shift around. Then I'll mount the squirrel cage blower on the side of the cart and cut out sections of the walls of the cart so that I can lay longer stock in across the firepot.

So does this sound feasible? Anything I need to watch out for or be cautious of?

Thanks.

-Dan

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The cart and pot should work nicely, but I would not recommend welding anything. The heat can warp the sheet metal, but if you raise the pot off the pan with some square tubing, it will dissipate the heat. If you raise the pot up enough, there will be no need to cut gates in the tray, and you'll be able to put your material in your forge from any direction without any obstacles, and your fuel won't be falling out.

Here are some pics of the forge I;ve been using for several years now. I hope this helps.post-4954-12657312231155_thumb.jpgpost-4954-12657312642489_thumb.jpgpost-4954-12657312968209_thumb.jpgpost-4954-12657313290168_thumb.jpgpost-4954-1265731365668_thumb.jpgpost-4954-12657314052098_thumb.jpg

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As I recall these are kind of flimsy, dropping in a piece of sheet metal and running some cross bracing would probably help a lot. Also the wheels don't do well "off road" so if you will always be on smooth pavement you are ok but expect to have to carry the cart over softer ground.

I'm rebuilding a gas grill cart for my forge, replacing it's cheesy wheels with some larger ones with a real axle. Bolting in a steel plate instead of the Al grill piece, etc. Course I'm notoriously cheap...

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Thanks guys.

Tom, where would you put the cross members you're talking about?

**********
|-----------|
|*********| <-Brace here?
|Firepot |
|*********| <-Brace here?
|-----------|
|-----------|
**********

Also would they be on the top or underneath the "table" surface. And how would you secure the braces? Welds or bolts?


Brian, is that coal in the last pic surrounding your firepot? Or is it gravel to stabilize it?


From what I've heard I'm thinking I might put two braces going accross the bottom as noted in the sketch above and use firebricks on top, underneath the firepot. Then I'll leave the "bins" on the sides as coal reserves. Does this sound like a good plan?

Also, if I were thinking of setting up a hood for it to catch sparks what would be a good material to use? I have some old ventilation duct work that I scrounged form the scrap yard a couple years ago. Can that be used? Or will it not hold up to the heat and/or would it put off bad fumes.

Thanks guys for the help.

-Dan

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That's what I did, bolted the brake drum forge under a sheet metal cart. The cart was easy to cut with a metal cutting jig saw blade and stiffer than I expected once the drum was attached. Don't cut thru the metal walls of the top shelf though. I forge with charcoal and needed the extra inch and a half for depth, brake drum's only about 5 inches deep.

post-182-12657451977417_thumb.jpg

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As I recall these are kind of flimsy, dropping in a piece of sheet metal and running some cross bracing would probably help a lot. Also the wheels don't do well "off road" so if you will always be on smooth pavement you are ok but expect to have to carry the cart over softer ground.

I'm rebuilding a gas grill cart for my forge, replacing it's cheesy wheels with some larger ones with a real axle. Bolting in a steel plate instead of the Al grill piece, etc. Course I'm notoriously cheap...


Thomas, cheap? Me too but I prefer to call it "thrifty and resourseful". Making the most of what you have at hand is a definite skill and I suspect a common trait among blacksmiths. (one cheapskate to another) Steeler. :P
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Dan: I think I looked at that same cart at my local HF store - thinking I could use it for a table for my brake drum forge. The main thing that turned me off is it is very, very low. By the time you extend the legs, add the bracing, cut the hole, etc . . . you may as well just start from scratch.

I am 6'-2" if that matters

Jeff

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Well if you drop in a piece of sheetmetal into the top that probably would not need more bracing.

I was thinking of X cross bracing---top of one leg to bottom of another to give it racking rigidity and I would drill and bolt, thin sheetmetal and my welding don't mix well save for forge welding.

Leastways that is what I'm going to do for my cart.

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Newbiesmith, That is coke in the forge in the last picture, loaded and ready to fire up. I took those pictures after returning from an event. You won't need any braces underneath if you put them on top like I suggested. You can if it makes you feel better, but the other points I mentioned are worth considering.

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Dan: I think I looked at that same cart at my local HF store - thinking I could use it for a table for my brake drum forge. The main thing that turned me off is it is very, very low. By the time you extend the legs, add the bracing, cut the hole, etc . . . you may as well just start from scratch.

I am 6'-2" if that matters

Jeff


You can also start with an inexpensive bolt together store room shelf unit and make the height you want. Add wheels and you are all set.

Phil
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That's what I did, bolted the brake drum forge under a sheet metal cart. The cart was easy to cut with a metal cutting jig saw blade and stiffer than I expected once the drum was attached. Don't cut thru the metal walls of the top shelf though. I forge with charcoal and needed the extra inch and a half for depth, brake drum's only about 5 inches deep.


Michael

That cart looks a whole lot sturdier than the bolt together Chinese HF cart to me.
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