At the moment I have some kao wool sitting in my forge so I want to put a coating on it before the borax has a chance to damage it, so would this work. If not suggestions are welcome hopefully local
pickup.

Thanks in advance



http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/3/HouseHome/1/HeatingAirConditioning/WoodPelletStoveAccessories/PRD~0642704P/Imperial%2BHi-Temp%2BStove%2B%2526%2BFurnace%2BCement%252C%2B710%2BmL.jsp


*link should work

i will tell ya i just rebuilt my forge and the flux eats the inside...i dont think anything will prevent it...the best is to use small amounts of borax and clean it after every welding session.... it ate thru a ceramic plate i had on te floor...there is that sts 100 (i think thats the number) that stiffens the kaowool and says it helps the reflection value and maintaines the heat better....I couldnt open your link....I go to chilli forge or larry zollar for that kind of info...

can't open the link; however unless it says it's good against flux it probably isn't!

Most refractories are not and you would need a good thick layer as cracking could eliminate the
protection.

At the moment I have some kao wool sitting in my forge so I want to put a coating on it before the borax has a chance to damage it, so would this work. If not suggestions are welcome hopefully local
pickup.

It would certainly help, but no, ITC-100 is not a proper 100% defense against borax flux. If you search on the web, you'll find a page where one of our fellow iron-bangers made a crucible out of kaowool and then painted it with ITC-100. The ITC-100 held against the flux for a while, but eventually the flux prevailed.

I fixed the link

I don't think any brushed-on coating over Koawool will protect it from flux.

A refractory (manufactured by ANH) can be used to make a floor that is impervious to flux. The product is called Plastech 85P and can be ordered online. You can read about it at "http://www.refwest.com/browseproducts/PLASTECH-85P-55--(STD).HTML". You may also order it at that site, but it can be ordered directly from the manufacturer for less cost.

Harbison-Walker Refractories Company
Pittsburgh, PA: 412-375-6897
Mexico, MO: 573-582-1300 ext. 16
Houston, TX: 713-635-3200

Plastech 85P can only be ordered in 55-pound boxes. It is a rammable refractory that needs to be formed (and packed) to the size you need. I build a small wooden box without a top or bottom (the size I need for a forge floor), then put some of the refractory into it and "ram" it tight with light blows from a hammer. Then carefully lift the frame away from the refactory and put it in the forge. I usually build round forges, putting one inch of kaowool all around the inside, then set the floor on top of the koawool. I put a slight "dome" on the floor as I make it, then use that dome as the bottom of the floor in the forge (that way the floor is level in the forge). I then add a second inch of kaowool around the inside of the forge, from one side of the floor to the other (holding in place with high-temp wire if necessary). Coat the koawool for best results with ITC products or Plistics-900 from Larry Zoeller. Flux will not damage the floor, but you still need to keep it away from the forge walls. The instructions you get with the refractory tell you it needs to be "burned in" using a very strict method, but I just fire up the forge at low heat and run it for a while till the floor hardens. I have never had problems using this method.

The refractory is pricey (close to $100 (including shipping) to get a 55# box shipped to me), but it will make many forge floors. If you only use one forge, you might find others in your blacksmith guild that have a need and would share the cost.

Yes, it will definitely help! In spite of what you may have read here it will help protect the KOAWOOL. I used an almost identical product, Hercules Furnace Cement, and acheived very good results and at a VERY reasonable cost as well.

I had to initally thin the cement with water to get it to spread on the KOAWOOL, not too thin, you don't want it to soak in. Dry slow with low heat, I use a heat gun on low. If it cracks don't worry, you'll need to apply several thin layers followed by several thicker layers (un-thinned). Dry each layer slow with low heat, filling in any cracks each time. eventually you get a pretty durable protective layer for the KOAWOOL. A container of that size should allow for periodic maintenance as well.

I finished my with a couple of coats of Satanite both to reflect the heat back into the forge and to further protect the cement/ceramic wool. This has been the most cost effective method to line a propane forge I've found. As inexpensive as the furnace cement, it is well worth the effort!

Thanks any tips on where to get Satanite or any other product i can get to reflect the heat better.

Thanks in advance

It's a good idea to coat your Kaowool with something wether you are using flux or not as when ceramic blankets get damaged microscopic fibers become airborne and can lodge in your lungs, leading to complications like Silicosis. I have a thin stainless steel tray that I slide into my gasser when using flux, it gets gooey and breaks down eventually but it's cheaper and easier to replace than refractory.

Judson have you tried placing cheap clay based kitty litter in your tray?

The easiest place to get Satanite, other than the internet, is your local pottery/ceramic supply store. You might try Alberta Ceramic Supplies, Edmonton or Ceramic Canada in Alberta.

Thomas- That's a good idea, but I'm a bit spoiled by a nice amount of stainless scrap so I've never bothered. I'd imagine the litter gives better thermal characteristics than just the tray thou...

My gas forge has a fire brick in the bottom surrounded by kaowool with a refractory mortar coating. I am using a 1/4" thick sheet metal with slightly curved up edges, except the edge facing me which hangs out of the forge. That way the only side the flux can run off is outta the forge. Then just pull out when done with a pair of tongs. Needs to be replaced once in a while, but very cheap to replace. Saves the fire brick from being eaten away.