BryanWillman Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 I need to build a stand for my anvil. The anvil is a peddinghaus #12 - 125kg/275#. And in my shop I really have to be able to move the thing around with a pallet jack (I have a very narrow pallet jack available.) My welding is pretty basic, so I want all right angle fitups. The stand design shown in the picture is what I propose to build. I'd use 2.5 x 2.5 x 0.250 tube and 2.5 x 2.5 x 0.250 angle, and 1" steel plate. I had thought about using leveling feet rather than wood blocks, but now think that would might hold up better to being pounded on. I also thought about using 3 feet, but with the square uprights and cross stretchers, I was concerned about the thing being tippy. And my shop floor is reasonably flat. I've set the height to the existing arrangement (stump that's hard to move), but it could be made taller or shorter by changing the wood block feet. Anyway, anybody see anything dangerous/unstable in this design? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 I have a couple suggestions- -Look more closely at using a tripod. There are lots of examples on here. I think the 4 post system will get in the way of your feet and possibly your work. You can always weld in a cross brace for moving purposes. -If you do stay with the 4 post system make the legs in-line with the wood blocks as the horizontal layer will bend over time. -Anvil hight is a personal choice depending on the type of work you do but a good rule of thumb for starters is: While holding your hammer in your hammering hand with the hammer face flat on your anvil, you want about a 5 degree bend in your elbow. You do not want your arm fully extended as this will wreak havoc on your joints. Good luck and congratulations on the anvil! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 You have the center of mass of the anvil over 22 above the floor and a base of only 12 inches wide. I would suggest that you angle the legs to enlarge the footprint of the base of the anvil stand. Slip another piece of tubing with wheels attached into the base so the entire unit can be easily moved. There are several threads on building anvil stands, and several different ideals on adjustable anvil stands. Attached is a photo of a three leg anvil stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Great detail on your drawling, what did you use for the drafting? I would also recommend a tripod but keep the legs fairly straight up not too much angle 65 - 70 degrees is about right. the one inch plate is good and if you look at the pic of Hofi that Glenn sent you will notice the plate is cut out to the shape of the anvil this makes it open to pass a piece down the side without interference, its a little extra work but some day it will pay off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanWillman Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 Great detail on your drawling, what did you use for the drafting? I would also recommend a tripod but keep the legs fairly straight up not too much angle 65 - 70 degrees is about right. the one inch plate is good and if you look at the pic of Hofi that Glenn sent you will notice the plate is cut out to the shape of the anvil this makes it open to pass a piece down the side without interference, its a little extra work but some day it will pay off OK, thanks. I'll think some more on the tripod idea. I actually would really prefer that (no rocking) but I have *got* to be able to get a pallet jack under it to move it. I picked 1" plate because in another post Hofi used 1" plate or so. Cutting out the profile won't be hard. (I've searched for anvil stands and read a number of threads and posts.) I set the height based on my current anvil on stump, which set using the bend in eblow rule sited by Glenn, so I think I have the height right. I also did one of the "put material and a hammer on the anvil" tests in Mark Aspery's books - I get the same answer. The drawing is a solidworks model (I have that for other reasons) saved out as a .jpg file so it works with the forum software. When I do work like this I now always start by making a model of the existing object (anvil, saw, etc.) and then actually model my plans. This allows one to see things like the top of the anvil is 30" high but the base is only 13" deep. (Though on a stump 13" deep it's very stable, until the stump started to come apart.) The designs like the one in the picture with Hofi appeal to me the most, just because if you get a 1st rate weld, the legs will be mostly in axial compression and hence very strong. I only have two problems with triangles. (1) They require welding fit ups at an angle, I don't feel all that confident about that. But I guess I could practice on scrap, and test heavily with a hammer. (2) Need some scheme for getting a pallet jack under it to move it. Thanks again I will think on this some more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Need some scheme for getting a pallet jack under it to move it. The idea is NOT to build a box and then you do not have to "think outside the box". Do not set limitations, spend the time getting the job done. Build a special pallet with a box on top. Put the pallet jack under your special pallet, roll it under the anvil stand and lift. The box would then lift against the bottom of the anvil and the legs would clear the ground. (Yes I know, thinking outside the box). Use the shop engine hoist to move the anvil, use the shop gantry crane, and the list continues till you find what works for you. It would be a simple process to attach wheels in a variety of configurations. I have seen welding tables that weighed several hundred pounds that were very quick and easy to move, so a 300 pound anvil and stand should be no problem. Attached is an example of moving a heavy vise stand. The angle fit ups can be done with a piece of chalk, a plum bob, and a ruler. Make a test piece for both ends and then transfer that pattern to the leg. You have most likely already welded angles such as 90 degrees, either flat or perpendicular. An angle other than 90 degrees is just another angle. If you have problems welding vertically, then tac the parts in place and lay the stand over on it's side so you can weld horizontally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanWillman Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 Revised Proposal. Legs are speced as 2x4x3/8. Feet are 1/2" Top is 1.5" Shelf is 1/4". Do you think the upsetting block will be hanging "too far out"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian D Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 That is looking better! Another suggestion for a welding aid.....Use your solidworks model and translate the footprint geometry to a layout drawing showing the positions of the feet. You can use the layout to place the feet in position and tack them in place right to your welding table. Then position your stands top plate and transfer a predetermined reference point to your layout in relation to your feet with a plumb bob or square or whatever makes sense. Once everything is tacked in place, weld it all up. It's all harder to explain than to actually do. Make that Solidworks model work for you, you went to the effort to model it all, now use the model to make fabrication easy! Many reference points and measurements can be determined with very little effort.......Does that make sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanWillman Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 Brian D - yes. Sometimes I strip angle and dimensions from drawings (so 22d for the legs goes right onto the bandsaw swivel) and other times I just print a view life size. Then do things like cut the image out. This yields a life size paper template which can be used for setup/marking. My printer (I'm a photographer in another life) can print quite large drawings to very good precision. And I've been thinking the trick is to build from top to bottom. Tack the legs onto the top plate. Measure again. Weld. Fit the shelf, tack, check, weld. Turn the think over onto the feet, weld. Now trace the anvil to be 100% sure of cutout shape, etc. Plasma the gaps. Drill the holes, etc. Nothing is ever welded overhead. In fact, by putting the thing on a scissors table, I think I can arrange to always be welding in good positions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Brian- I think you will be very happy with that new stand design. One suggestion though, raise the shelf so you can sweep under it easily and you may want to cut holes or add recepticles for anvil tooling... Nice drawing by the by. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Ah solid works gota find a copy of that I have been using auto cad v14 (stone age) but it works. good work on the new desing it will work out best for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buell508 Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 I think I'm going to use your tripod stand for my new to me (1919) Fisher Thank You Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 If you`re worried about the upsetting block hanging off the side then eliminate it and upset on the anvil face using a cover plate if you`re worried about the face or put the plate on the floor and kick it under the anvil when you`re done.I like as little as possible between me and my main work area,the anvil face.I made the footprint of my base as small as possible(almost vertical) on the working side and as small as practical on the rest. If you feel you need to have the upsetting block always at hand then simply make some of the 1" steel plate you cut away from the footprint of the anvil into gussets and weld them under the overhang to reinforce it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanWillman Posted January 18, 2010 Author Share Posted January 18, 2010 The upsetting block is forged into the base of the forged anvil. Removing it would require cutting it off with a torch (I think) and I don't know where the internal walls of the anvil are. If you`re worried about the upsetting block hanging off the side then eliminate it and upset on the anvil face using a cover plate if you`re worried about the face or put the plate on the floor and kick it under the anvil when you`re done.I like as little as possible between me and my main work area,the anvil face.I made the footprint of my base as small as possible(almost vertical) on the working side and as small as practical on the rest. If you feel you need to have the upsetting block always at hand then simply make some of the 1" steel plate you cut away from the footprint of the anvil into gussets and weld them under the overhang to reinforce it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 2 wheels on the rear legs, and some pipe welded under the base that you can slip some pipe handles into, and no pallet jack is required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tormented Soul Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 I have a question. What orientation of the legs would be best in the fabricated tripod stand like pictured here? Mr. Hofi's stand has the two legs on the horn side and Bryan's picture shows the single leg on the horn side. Obviously both will work. Which one do you think is better and why? Thanks, Zach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons lair Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Picked up a 150 lb trenton on a 3 legged(2 under the heel) heavy steel stand. That leg kept getting in the way of my right foot. Beeing it was a crappy stand anyhow. I just put it on a spare stump. As to wheels, I made a (Hofi) style base for a post vise and scroll bender. 2 ftX 4 ft X 3/4" plate. Wheels on one end bar socket on the other. I weigh in about 180 lb with 40 yrs of moving heavy steel it ain't moving. Cut the plate to 2X2 and weged it under the 3,000 lb shear. It will stay there till it says move me. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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