Ed Steinkirchner Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 has anyone made any pommels made of 2 parts, one that you rivet the tang through and a second part that is riveted in two places to that? i will post a drawing of what i mean if my computer isn't being too moody tomorrow. BTW the sword is about 28-31ish inches long, 1.25 inches wide, and the tang is 6 inches long. this is my first sword, snd i have had to make 2 special tools already (both for the fuller) not to mention i now need long forge to triple normalize and a long quench tank to harden the blade. i suppose ones work is never done, eh?;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPH Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 Hello: I do that a lot..what's the question? JPH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Steinkirchner Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 dang. i forgot to mention that i am going to hot blue the upper and lower guards. annnnnnd..... YES! i can't believe that it uploaded. Anyway. this is what I'm going for, i have done a test of the lower guard, and it isn't a problem. BUT, the pommel. Well i figure the best way to make it would be to forge the steel for the first part and drill the 3 holes, then fit like a normal pommel. how do i make the holes line up if the one part is attached to the tang? and once the two rivets are set, how can i make the rivets blend in with the bluing? also if i have to change the balance point how do i remove weight and not alter the design? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Waldon Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 You didn't, perchance, get your inspiration for that design for http://www.maddwarfworkshop.com/ did you? They have a sword, Eal Gyd, or something like that, with a pommel and cross-guard nearly identical to this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Steinkirchner Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 the inspiration came from a sword made by Jake Powning called "vardhllokur". this shape just went well with the blade that i finished forging. it would be nice to be able to cast the upper and lower guards, but i don't have a crucible or a kiln. anyway i like the look of blackened steel. i am debating on whether or not to do copper and brass inlay or not. because all of the bluing/blacking treatments ive tried so far turned the copper and brass colors. accept a tea decoction, but that doesn't get the steel dark enough for me. but i digress.. though it is similar so the powning sword, the crossguard is wider and more curved,and the pommel has more "rays", and obviously no knotwork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Steinkirchner Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 i was just thinking (which always makes my head hurt) and it occurs to me that i think i know how to make the pommel but i want to know for sure. okay here it goes. start by fitting the lower guard (cross guard) and the grip. then rough forge and fit the first part of the pommel. then forge rough and fit the part to become the lobed section. now is the part where i am at a loss. how do i hold the two parts of the pommel together to drill them? i have a drill press which i can adjust the table angle if necissary. i was thinking about soldering the parts together to drill then just heating till they fall apart again when i'm done. after the holes are drilled, finish the filing of the entire hilt, then carve the grip, inlay and blacken the guard and pommel, then rivet the tang through thethin part of the pommel, then set the two rivets to hold the other half of the pommel in place. that is how I will do it unless i find a better way. any advice would probably help, though because of the winter being cold and my list of things to do being pretty long, i probably won't get to it for a couple weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Steinkirchner Posted January 10, 2010 Author Share Posted January 10, 2010 you can see the blade here leaning against my 300-ish pound vulcan anvil. in the one pic you can see my blade fullering rig, and on the stand with the hammers is my swage block that i made the pattern for and my friend cast for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokshasa Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 what i would do is taper the end of the tang down then on the pummel just drill one hole, counter sink it and peen the end into itthen grind flat to match the fitting. but thats just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Well done forging job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Steinkirchner Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 while it looks good in the picture, is reality the fuller has two spots where it deviates by about 1/8 of an inch. But that was a tooling error, the nut that keeps the guide in place shook and i fullered one heats worth, about 2 inches. and a bit on the point, about an inch, but that was the taper of the point kind of tripped me up. i just wasn't thinking about that.Oh well, i think it turned out okay for my first sword, and fuller. i would have just forged the bevels and forgot the fuller to begin with but my steel wasn't wide enough. with the fuller it is now 1.5 inches wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 Nothing that can't be fixed. WHat steel is it? Did I miss that in your post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Steinkirchner Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 the steel is medium carbon 1060 i think, hardens in cold oil if thin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akad Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Hey so far so good right? For a pommel, I think I would have made one that slips over the end of the tang, with maybe 1/2 an inch of the tang coming out of the other end. Then I would hammer the protruding part to make a kind of "nail head" that would hold the pommel onto the tang. (Probably put the handle on first for this style of sword) However, this might make your handle shorter, as the pommel would go over the end of the tang. Or if you don't want that to happen, you could make the blade shorter by lowering the shoulder thus making the tang longer. But that's just me. I know some authentic swords had pommels attached as described above. Others just had the pommel "Pommeled" on to the end of the tang, and it stayed solely by friction. Good luck, great work thus far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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