Avadon Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 How can I stop rust from overcoming my anvils outside. I've tried thick greases and oils and it always comes off in just a few short weeks. I just hate to see the face and sides of my anvil covered with bright orange rust. Does covering it help much? Should I use wax? Should I use silicone? Mostly I just want to cover the sides and then use something else to lay ontop of the bed that I can wipe clean. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 My Dad went on a week long deep sea fishing trip, and the cook had all of the guys come down to the kitchen with their pliers. He took them and dipped them into the hot bacon grease. My Dad tried an experiment, and didn't do one pair. The undipped ones were tight with rust within a couple of days, the dipped ones showed no signs of rust after a week on the ocean. He added that they smelled good too :p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blindviper Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 (edited) You could paint the sides.Here is the link Here is a pdf that is more towards what you want too do anywayhttp://myfreefilehosting.com/f/7f3284c696_3.24MB Edited December 6, 2009 by blindviper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 Car wax on the face will hold up for several months, as long you are not using it. Rewaxing at the end of the day is not a lot of effort as you don't need to buff it out. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan W Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 I always cover my anvil with a old oily rag after using it. Just throw the rag over it and put a hammer on it to keep it from blowing away. Here in Florida we have a problem with humidity and we only live a mile from the beach so we get some pretty salty winds at times also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted December 6, 2009 Author Share Posted December 6, 2009 You could paint the sides.Here is the link Here is a pdf that is more towards what you want too do anywayGun_Oil_Test.pdf - Gun Oil Test - Dedicated Web Hosting Service Wow that's some excellent information. I'm printing that stuff out. I've been at this metal working game for so long and i've tried every cutting oil and lubricant out there. Nice to see a comparitive test. I'm sure after reading this through some lubricants i'll probably stop using. I'll probably also try that oily rag thing as that probably helps keep some of the moisture out. Painting though is probably the highest protection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkC Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 Avadon, you've got a xxxxxxx mad scientist's workshop going on over there. you fabbed the nicest anvil stand I have ever seen, under that gladiator. Ever seen. bar none. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 Here we have very high humidity so I just paint all the parts of my anvils that don't get used, then if I am not going to use an anvil for a while I just put a film of grease over the non painted parts. I know some guys on here say they don't like to see anvils painted. I can't say that it bothers me one way or the other but I would certainly rather see paint than rust! Some anvils definitely seem to rust faster than others. Is it the alloy used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billd Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 I use a product called "The Must For Rust". It is labeled as a rust remover and inhibitor. I spray it on with a paper towel on the face of the anvil to keep it wet as long as possible. After a couple of hours, remove the paper towels and let it air dry. It seems to last at least a couple of months. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 I use WD-40 and the oily rag technique. When I keep up with it I don't get any rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 A little rust just adds character! If it gets on the face of the anvil, it will come of as soon as you start using it again. If you have a phobia about rust, use the oil. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 (edited) Allow to rust then oil. I let everything get brown; wire brush the loose stuff; followed by a coating of WD40. After some use, the face of the anvil will take on a silver grey color (I think Frank Turley's definition is "looks like the back of an old silver watch") with the rest resembling an antique gun's patina. Edited December 7, 2009 by HWooldridge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 Not a problem here, too dry. Well there has to be some advantage to not having any rain.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 I've had good results with Fluid Film for unpainted steel left outdoors. CarWell CP90 also looks very promising, but I haven't tried it yet. If you do cover the anvil, you need to allow it to breathe. A tight, waterproof cover will actually make things worse by trapping condensation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drgas Posted December 8, 2009 Share Posted December 8, 2009 I use a piece leather coated with oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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