which tool for metal cutting ???

[todo]

I have a set of torches and a mig welder. Now need to be able to cut a variety of stock for small projects.

Which tool would you recomend to buy first, Harbor freights cheepo band saw, or an $80 metal chop saw that Tractor supply carries?. Thanks for any help

[chyancarrek]

For small pieces and quick cuts, I use a thin kerf abrasive wheel in my angle grinder or use a large set of bolt cutters for quick snips on smaller stock.

Unfortunately cheapo is cheapo and usually not worth the money in the long haul. Save up for a better quality unit if you can wait.

[thingmaker3]

When cutting 5/8" square mild steel, I can hot cut three pieces for every two my HF bandsaw chews through. For 5/16" square or smaller mild steel, I use a cold chisel.

The bandsaw is handy for precise cutting of several pieces simultaneously, such as a bundle of threaded rod.

[JamesBBrauer]

I finally broke down and got a Dewalt metal cutoff saw after trashing the gears in the HF version, and never having much success with blade tracking in the HF bandsaw. The cutoff saw gets more use for welding projects than blacksmithing. For instance, I needed to cut a bunch of 3" lengths out of a piece of steel angle last night, and used the cutoff saw. But I was making a bunch of table top clips for some tables, and was able to bend a dogleg in the end of the stock, then cut it with a cold chisel a single heat (with a helper).

[welder19]

Chopsaw, but save for a good one, cheap ones just aren't worth the money.

welder19

[Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver]

Many like the Milwaukee and Makita Porta-bands. Either hand held, clamped in a vise or build or buy a stand.

Portable Band Saws - Milwaukee and Porter Cable - Portaband

or the cheap HF one:

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Either way buy the blades at HF

[pkrankow]

Are HF blades really comparable to everybody else in this case?
Phil

[Fe-Wood]

If they say LENOX they are:D

[nc_cooter]

I have been using the HF hori/vert band saw for over 4 years and for me it's the best bang for a buck. Scrap the stand that comes with the saw and build one from angle. Remove the factory oil from the gear box and replace with a quality oil. Take time to do a complete wheel/ blade alignment. Replace the factory vertical cutting table with one made from 1/4" plate. Use a LENOX bi metal blade and cut some metal.
There is a lot of info on the net about these saws and ways to make them better.

[John B]

You could also consider using shears or guillotines, they are a much underated tool, and do not require electricity or blade replacements very often.

Correct adjustments and they should last you a lifetime, blade sharpening can be done by yourself, and they are very quick, when in use.

There are many that are ideal for small size materials up to 2" by 1/2" or 5/8" round or square, larger capacity ones are also available.

[Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver]

Are HF blades really comparable to everybody else in this case?
Phil

No, but they are three for $20.00 and sometimes on sale.

[welder19]

I have found MK Morse work the best for me, for pretty much all of my cutting blades and abbrasives, not the cheapest but you get what you pay for.

The M.K. Morse Company professional-quality hole saws, saw blades and abrasives

welder19

[unkle spike]

I use Olsen brand blades from Tractor Supply, and lately have had great success with the "Super Cut" 10-14 TPI blades from Harbor Freight. And take the time to align the blade according to the book.

This is the replacement table I built, it clamps in the vice, and uses one of the bolts that hold the factory supplied table.

They are slower than a chop saw, but for me I prefer it over the mess. If I am in a hurry, or it won't fit the saw, I use a cutter wheel in either my 4" or 7" grinder.

[Tobago]

I have a Milwauki Porta-Bandsaw and it can't be beat.

Excelsior,
Ted