Hi guys .


thought i would post a pic of a sort of anvil i made up{till i get a real one} the things weight is 160 lb . i used 6x4 solid bar {mild steel} i managed to scrounge 20 feet of the bar.

moving it had its problems also cutting.

the tire hammer i have just finished has the same bar for the anvil.


would it be worth hard facing the thing.


DANIEL TASMANIA.

looks as if you put some thinking and time into the anvil and it turned out well i like it you did a great job

thought i would post a pic of a sort of anvil i made up{till i get a real one} DANIEL TASMANIA.

That is a "real one"! Nice work.

Hardfacing something that size would be a lot of work; I've done it to a much smaller anvil. I'd try it as-is for a while and see how it goes. It's not like you can't hardface over dings if you decide you want to.

Nice Job! Nice Design! You should get some use out of that, even after you find a "real" anvil. From the looks of it, it would be worth hardfacing, except that: Hardfacing rods are rediculously expensive. You can probably buy a decent anvil for what it would cost in rods electricity, labor and grinding consumables. It may be cheaper/better to furnace braze a tool steel top plate onto it. Another possibility would be to find some junk harfacing stick rods (junk because the flux is falling off), wire brush them and use them as tig rods. There are many different properties available in harfacing rods though.

If you take the rest of that 6x4 bar, dig a suitable hole and mount it end-on, you'll have a very efficient anvil...

hardfacing? yes i did mine for about $50.00 it was well worth it.

MG55 I belive was the rod.
it work hardens, no heat treat after and no butter pass required, great stuff.

That looks very real to me. Nice job.

if its new metal from a mini mill, just heat it up and using a large stream of water Cool it Quickly using the flood method like they used to harden wrought anvil faces. or just suspend it in a horse tank upside down with a small trolling motor fastened to the side of the tank to move the water over the face. And try an experimental smaller piece first to see if it will harden some.

Thanks for the kind remarks .

will give it a go as is to try it out.

have put a bit of the six by four on an one inch thick steel plate for a vertical one as well.


will also heat up a bit and try to quench it to see if it hardens.

Thanks again . may have a go at hard facing later

DANIEL TASMANIA.

don't hard face it, hard facing is too hard and will chip and crack with use and it can only be put on approx 2 passes deep before it pulls away from the parent metal.

Use a hard facing UNDERLAY rod which can be put on any thickness without problems, I have repaired many anvils including 4 of my own and I use MG 740 which has a high manganese content, manganese is has anticrushing properties which will stand up to constant hammering, and as welded will be in the 41 rockwell area. it is also forgable and machinable.

Jeremy came down to my shop and used it and my tools to repair one of his anvils with MG740 rod, to preheat the face before welding, smoke the top with just an acetylene flame, the preheat just below the face along the sides till the soot dissappears. Your first passes should be around the outside edges. Use a tempile stick and keep the face below 800 degrees while welding, just use stringer beads to lay the weld on, chipping and wire brushing between passes, don't use a wide wash pass as it will impart too much heat in a small area.

Edited October 3, 200916 yr by irnsrgn