chichi Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 I searched "nail making" and read a lot of threads but I did not find the answer to my question. I punched and drifted a sq. hole in my header . I started at the bottom and drove the plug from the top. I am going to use 1/4 stock, do I make the hole in the top a shade under 1/4 so the stock does not go thru when I head the nail. I saw a diagram which shows the hole should have an hourglass shape. Wont that cause the nail to jam which is the problem I am having. I need to file the edges of the hole but wonder about how close the hole size needs to be to the stock size. Sorry for raising a question on a topic so well covered. The nail maker in the video I attached in the "look into the past" thread has me inspired. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 IME you need about a 3/16" square hole for 1/4" stock and the hole should be smallest at the surface of the header. I'd say that you punched the hole properly but should then have drifted it with a tapered drift from the back to get the final size and the pyramidal shape desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 I make the nail size I need first, them use that to make the nail header that will produce that size nail. The nail hole in the header is a hourglass shape so that the top 1/3 or so acts as a funnel (counter sink) to hold the nail near the top while the head is being formed. The bottom 2/3 or so of the hole is open so as not to touch the nail and cause it to stick in the header. In use, cool the header in water between nails. If you are having problems with the nails sticking in the header, look closely at a finished nail and see where any grooves are being formed on the nail. File any rough spots and round any sharp edges. Your funnel (counter sink) on the top of the hour glass may not be angled open enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chichi Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 I did punch from the bottom to get the hourglass shape but I did not get much of a countersink effect when I punched from the top. I will inspect the nails to see if I can tell where the problem is. Approx. 3/16 is a good reference. Thanks for the tips. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 I have seen two different style headers, one flat, one domed. If you are making the domed header, after making the hourglass shape, you can dome it just a bit more and open the top funnel. This also closes the bottom funnel, so you may have to open it back up a bit so the nail does not touch the sides and stick. Another method I have used is to dome the header using a ball peen hammer. Then use a round nose punch to thin out the area where the hole will be placed. Next drive the taper forming the hole from the top. Next adjust as needed and clean up any rough spots. This will leave a funnel going into a dome with little or no bottom funnel (hour glass). Play with the design(s) and use what works for you. Dip the header in water between nails to keep it cool. The top funnel shape jams the taper so you can form the head of the nail. It does not have to be an excessive angle or depth depending on the relationship of the nail size and stock size. The nail head will require about 1-1/2 times the diameter of the stock to form the head. Adjust as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsiler Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 Some good information here. Thanks Billy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 I see that Glenn uses a slightly different technique than I do... which leads to slightly different header design. Glenn is using the header to trap a taper on the nail stock, whereas I shoulder the stock on two sides so that my header works better with the narrowest spot very near the top. I use the shoulders to stop and hold the nail stock where I will form the head. I am just posting this to clarify so that people don't get confused by the slight differences in our preferred header architecture. I will have to try Glenn's system now and see how I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chichi Posted September 24, 2009 Author Share Posted September 24, 2009 Thanks for the clarification. A more sophisticated tool than I thought. Is one heat for 1/4 in. stock attainable with todays mild steel vs the old wrought iron? Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted September 24, 2009 Share Posted September 24, 2009 One heat, one nail, ...... with practice. (grin) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piglet_74 Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 This is the first time I've seen this video. Just thought I wold pass it along. Interesting approach to shouldering.YouTube - Blacksmith Demonstration at the 2009 Brooklyn Fair Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 I am going to have find a book I had that showed making nails. It talked about making nails with only 5 hits of a hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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