Mick Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 (edited) I need help. I have to forge 6 tug stops for wagon shafts. My smithing tools are on the most generous description less than basic and my experience level is somewhat less than that. The long leg is screwed to the wagon shaft, the outside face is curved on about a 2" diameter, to fit up snug to the shaft. The short leg has a flat outside face and sits at 90deg to the long leg. It has a square outside corner between the two legs. The inside faces are founded like rail capping and both ends are rounded. Material is mild steel. This gismo stops the wagon shafts from sliding through the harness. Can anyone help me with a BP for method and sequence to forge these. There should be 2 more photos but I went wrong somewhere.] Edited August 15, 2009 by Mick missing photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Russell Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Mick , shouldn't be too hard to knock those up .. when do you need em by ? Dale Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 I have visited the shops of professional smiths, some of which would maintain either a card file or notebook with the material cut lists and steps for projects that they expected to forge again. Since no one here is likely to have made exactly the item you photographed, that level of detail is not likely to be available. At best we can advise to take a piece of modeling clay, form the bracket in the modeling clay, then reform the clay into the shape of a bar and measure its length. Then taking the bar bend it to a 90 degree angle, round the ends, forge down the edges, and drill your holes. Once you have come up with the length of stock needed and the specific steps, record that information on a card or notebook for next time you make one. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Looks like you can use the directions for a 90* outside corner, metal thickness radius (or smaller)on the inside. I found directions in "the blacksmith's craft" I was able to download in .pdf form. I can't find where I downloaded it, and its too big to upload, but you upset the metal before forming the corner according to the directions. I haven't tried to do this myself, I have just read a bunch of stuff. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Browne Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Mick, Work on getting the other images up on the site. One fuzzy image is not much to go on. Also, a diagram of how this works would go a long way. I have never seen a harness to use this type of thing to hold the shafts, the ones I have seen use closed brackets that you loop a strap through, no sharp bits sticking out. More info and photos will help with advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 The easiest way I know of to determine a starting quantity of steel/iron for reproducing an existing piece is to weigh the old one and add some for wastage. How much to add for scaling depends on your skill and how many times it has to go back to the fire. The remainder will be for punching, trimming, etc. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urnesBeast Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Frosty, Weighing it and calculating volume, that is brilliant! I just thought of another way, in case the density of the two materials is different: * Submerge in as small necked, narrow and tall of a bucket as possible. * Fill to top with water. * Remove piece via string I forgot to mention above * Insert rod into bucket until water is at top like before. This covers volume directly. The less the diameter at top, the easier it will be to see the change in volume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 I don't think actually measuring the volume would be necessary unless you're working significantly different materials. Heck, even then. If you do need to though, simply fill a container to the top with clean water and gently drop the piece in. Collect the overflow and weigh it. Use metric to avoid the hassle and potential miscalculation inherent to multiple conversions you need to do to use avoidopoise (however it's spelled) system. Any pocket reference will have the weight per volume of any common alloy and you can figure it from there. Wait till you have everything else calculated before converting from metric to english if you're working with inches. The fewer times you have to convert the less error you'll have. (learned the hard way working in the state of AK's materials lab many years ago) Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Russell Posted August 18, 2009 Share Posted August 18, 2009 I'd just do the upset bend / cnr , punch the holes , ruff shape & trim ta length , seein' as it's Mick's material's i was usin' i wouldn't ave ta worry about wastin' any of mine .. Dale Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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