First Forge Weld (observations on teaching)

[evfreek]

The first time one makes a successful forge weld is pretty memorable. It also appears that the first time one teaches another to make a weld is also thrilling. One of my friends asked me to help him out with forge welding, and he had some very interesting observations. He wanted to make some pattern welded steel, and since I had never done this successfully, it would be kind of like the blind leading the blind. I have, however, learned several ways to fail, so that would at least be some useful experience that I could teach.

Instead of wasting time with this, I figured that I would start with some simple lessons of things that I did know how to do well. The first thing to make is a basket welded hook. He wanted to do a drop tongs weld, but this is kind of tough for the first forge weld. I suspect that the faggot weld is too easy and does not lead readily to a final piece that one can show off. First, I demo'ed how to do the weld on the first end. This is the hardest end, since it is kind of fiddly. I used a crutch (not a cheat). A single loop of wire was wrapped around to keep things in place.

Then, I let him try it out. The first problem was that the blower was set too high, letting too much air into the fire. Second, the fire needed to be deeper. Third, there was some difficulty in recognizing that the piece was at the correct temperature. I think that the best advice comes from Brian Brazeal: "Wait until you see the golden flame." This is not quite hot enough, though, and it helps to watch the metal "disappear in the fire" and one or two small sparks appear above the fire. Now here is where these instructions fell a little flat. First, what is the "golden" flame? One book refers to it as a color change, but what color? When I pointed to the golden flame, it became very clear. But it was difficult to understand from the written word. "Disappear in the fire" is also ambiguous. What if the air blast is too low and the fire is orange. Then, "disappear in the fire" is too cold. Finally, I was surprised to see that beginners often slop a lot of borax on the piece, and that first spark above the fire is delayed quite a bit. The piece is ready to weld before that spark appears.

One of the largest disservices to learning, however, came from a book he had read. The book advised getting tens of feet of stock and hundreds of pounds of coal, because forge welding is hard and learning is slow. That is not necessarily true. He did a fine job on his first or second try. Of course, I gave him low carbon steel that I personally qualified, and the stuff is as sticky as glue , but why torment folks. I think that the books words were correct, but easily misinterpreted. The meaning is that it will take a long time to get good at all types of forge welding. I still have trouble with those layered billets. He pointed out that it is difficult to convey technique via the written word, and probably blacksmiths are by and large poor writers. I don't know. It is a hard job to teach through a book's pages.

Maybe the moral of the story is to just invite a friend over and provide a six pack. That is why everyone around here is always telling folks to put down their location and visit a local blacksmith chapter demo.

[Rob Browne]

All good advice, especially the bit about too much air. Many get obsessed with getting the fire HOT and end up with an oxidising fire that overheats the outer layers of the piece while the centre is still too cool.

The half dozens tinnies is a great idea, universal currency :)

[John B]

Welll done EV

One of the largest disservices to learning, however, came from a book he had read. The book advised getting tens of feet of stock and hundreds of pounds of coal, because forge welding is hard and learning is slow.

Just shows that a little guidance can be extremely useful, and you probably learned as much from the experience as did your friend,

[David Einhorn]

......... I still have trouble with those layered billets.......

Taking courses can greatly accelerate the learning process. Rob Hudson was generous and taught a course in pattern welding at the Blacksmith Guild of Central Maryland (BGCM) a few years back. It was one of the best investments of time and money that I ever made. Everyone, without exception, left the course with a pattern welded blade that they made.

Link to article on Rob Hudson: http://swordforum.com/summer99/robhudson.html Edited July 20, 2009 by UnicornForge

[evfreek]

Welll done EV

One of the largest disservices to learning, however, came from a book he had read. The book advised getting tens of feet of stock and hundreds of pounds of coal, because forge welding is hard and learning is slow.

Just shows that a little guidance can be extremely useful, and you probably learned as much from the experience as did your friend,

Hi John B. Yes, I think I did learn a lot. I tried to keep my mind open. Anyway, his first weld was better than my first weld. He has been blacksmithing longer than I have, but it seems that those books intimidated him unnecessarily. It is not all that bad. In retrospect, it may take several bags of coal before you get proficient, but it starts working a lot sooner than that, and that is what really matters.

[evfreek]

Hi UnicornForge. Thanks for that link on Rob Hudson. There are some interesting observations on composite construction. I am still trying to do the pattern welding. Our organization does not really focus on bladesmithing, or in particular, pattern welding. They are more into leaves, sculpture, and grillwork. There is still so much to learn in that direction that it worth taking advantage of the resource. I did take one lesson from a bladesmith, but it did not work out so well. I learned a few things not to do, and it did start me on my way.

[mike-hr]

Having a buddy within easy driving distance is priceless. I had forge welding figured out, so I thought, teaching it made me think about why i can just "feel" when the fire is right...I can hear a roar from the coal, meaning the fire is deep and clean. I've learned from production runs, that drop tongs welds are subject to attitude, caffeine level, beer level, etc.. I started blind riveting stuff if I really need it to stick, so there's only one piece to worry about. On mild steel, I don't use flux if i'm in the zone, if I'm not 100% on task, a little borax makes me feel better. Probably doesn't help, but I feel it's mostly attitude, not flux that makes the weld stick. If you have a good fire, and know where the sweet spot is in the forge, you can do okay.

[David Einhorn]

Hi UnicornForge. Thanks for that link on Rob Hudson. There are some interesting observations on composite construction. I am still trying to do the pattern welding. ......

Taking the course greatly increased my confidence in forge welding. Two main things that I learned about welding a stack of steel from Rob's course is to clean the metal before it is cut and stacked, and to know when the stack is at the correct temperature. Rob had us grind the billet clean prior to cutting and stacking. If you do that as well as fluxing well with borax and getting it hot enough, then tap the stack together you should be fine. Start taping from your end and progress to the far end. Remember the trick is to stick the liquid surfaces together, and hitting it too hard will make the pieces bounce apart.

If you don't get the metal hot enough, what sometimes happens is that the surfaces are "glued" together by the borax and not really welded, in which case you can peel the two pieces apart in a vise.

Dave E.

[CurlyGeorge]

I suspect that the faggot weld is too easy and does not lead readily to a final piece that one can show off.

I use a faggot weld, on the end of 5/16 inch square stock, to double the mass so that I can pound out the dish of an eating spoon. I do this regularly in demos. It works great and you do end up with a final piece to show off. :)