overmodulated Posted July 18, 2009 Posted July 18, 2009 Folks: can a standard table-top drill press be used for sandling (with a sanding drum), or must the spindle oscillate? There aren't many table top DPs that oscillate (those that exist get mixed reviews). Any recommendations? I want to be able to handle small radius curves for knifemaking (e.g. 1/2 to 3" radius curves). Thanks Quote
Charlotte Posted July 18, 2009 Posted July 18, 2009 I have used a drill press as a spindle sander but your hand has to do the ocillation. So it ok, not great, just ok as long as you are not looking for the true right angle a spindle sander gives. Remember, the drill press bearing set up is not designed for this work so takes some extra wear. Kind of like useing a drill press as an end mill. You can for light loads but the whole thing takes a beating. I've done both sanding and milling. Thought the results were really time consuming and only measures of desperation. Quote
Dawg Posted December 4, 2009 Posted December 4, 2009 Dito what charlotte says and yes we called it a poor mans mill in the shops i worked. Quote
jimbob Posted December 4, 2009 Posted December 4, 2009 ...put a board on the table drill a hole the size of your sanding drum the raise the table so the bottom of the drum is in the hole. you can tack strips to the board as a guide. the hole lets the drum sand all the way ...no small edge at the bottom. also look into using mounted stones of different sizes. I use 1 5/8 for screwdriver tips/bits I use a 4" to conture bolt handles after weding them on Quote
Rich Hale Posted December 4, 2009 Posted December 4, 2009 One big thing to consider is the design of your drill press. If it has a chuck that is rated for 3/8" bits then that is the size of cutting tool that it will be most happy with or even better if the bit is smaller. The motor is rated for that much load. When you put on a sanding drum and it is larger in diameter than that it puts the motor at risk of overheating. If the abrasives get a little dull and or you put a bit more pressure on when sanding it increaes that risk. If you do this check the motor often for heating. If it is warmer than it gets normally when drilling you should stop and let it cool. For however long that takes. I have found it is usually less expense to replace a drill press than the cost of replacing a motor. I now am usuing five derill presses in the shop. Not counting the one I tossed and replaced because I used a sanding drum on one and fried the motor. Sure did not seem like I had been sanding for very long when it went. Quote
HWooldridge Posted December 5, 2009 Posted December 5, 2009 The Jacobs chuck on most drill presses is often the primary weakness in side load work as they always seem to chatter loose and let the tool move. As mentioned, the bearings and table are also problems as everything was designed for Z axis loads, instead of X-Y. Quote
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