commanderpete Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Greetings all. I was wondering if you could help a newbie. I haven't been able to find much information on how to peen metal. I'm making some "drift pins" that go through the wooden rudder on my old boat, using 3/8" silicon bronze rod. I need to peen over the ends where it passes through the rudder shaft (cant use fasteners). Basically, I'm trying to form a head on the end of the bronze rod. From what I've heard, you need to heat the metal, but not red hot. Then pound away to mushroom the end. Any other tips I should know? Would it help to drill a small hole in the end of the rod so it flattens out better? Thanks for any advice Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 yes, you don't really need to get real hot, it just makes it faster. Overworking it will work harden, and can get brittle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Are you using the a ball pien? The round ball seems to spead the metal better. Work in a circular pattern out from the center. If the first time isn't enough, go back over it until it suits you. When and if it does start to work harden, you can quickly anneal it by heating to a dull red and quenching it in water. (this is if you are working it cold) Easy on the edges; they'll be the thinnest and most prone to crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Welcome aboard Peter, glad to have ya. Use a ball pein, start in the center and work outwards in a circular pattern is good. Stay more in the center as already stated. Back the pins from the far side with something several times as heavy as the hammer. Only make two rounds with the hammer before you anneal, bronze work hardens suddenly and if you aren't familiar it will surprise you and you'll end up having to remove them and start over. No need to quench in this situation you don't need full dead soft, just soft enough it won't crack while you work it. Center drilling the rod won't help at all. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkunkler Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 If the peened head is to be against wood, use a snug fitting washer between the head and the wood . This gives a larger shoulder without having to peen a large head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
commanderpete Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 Thanks for the help. Here's a few pictures. Like an idiot, I applied sealant in the gap between the two teak rudder boards (you need to leave room for the wood to swell when wet). The gap just got wider over the years. I cleaned out the gap, but couldnt tighten up the drift pins (they're threaded on one end) I was afraid of cracking the wood So I cut and pounded out the drift pins and I'm making new ones. The end that gets peened over is where it goes through the shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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