Stick Welding Advice

[Steel&Clay]

Hey all,
Im a sculptor who has been working with steel for about a year now, and have gotten very efficient with the M.I.G and T.I.G processes. I first learned to weld with the stick, but never practiced or acquired too much knowledge on it. So, to all you stick pros out there, I would like to get informed on stick types, sizes to what gauge/type of metal stock, as well as recommended amps etc. Does anyone know any links to good, informative websites? Or maybe you would like to make a post in which you can spout out all of your accrued knowledge?
Thanks a bunch, and happy arc-ing.

[Thomas Dean]

Howdy from East TEXAS!! and welcome to IFI! The best thing is to head to your local welding supplier and get a pocket guide for the electrode size/amp info. Both Miller and Lincoln make them...or used to anyway, I'm sure they still do. They used to be on a plastic card that would fit in your wallet. Once again, welcome. Just a rule of thumb tho for the dia. convert to amps=== 1/8"electrode=.125=125amps, this is a good starting point, may need to adjust slightly to fit your needs.

[HWooldridge]

Miller publishes a very good set of training guides - here is the link:

Miller - Resources - Tools

You can get the student package for $25 and it's well worth the money.

[arftist]

For sculptural stick welding I suggest 6011. It works well with poor fitup, will weld in all positions, will weld through rust and paint, runs well on cheap(AC) machines, has adequate strenth and is easy to grind. 6011 can also be run over a very large range of temperature. For example, 1/8" 6011 will run anywhere between 65 and 100 or more amps depending upon whether you want high buildup, or deep penetrating, stong welds for thick metals. 1/8" is an all arround size, capable of welding 14 gauge all the way up 1" or more, with multiple passes. 3/32" rods, in capable hands can weld auto-exhaust pipes and tack autobody panels.

[Hillbillysmith]

Check this post out: http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f56/craftmans-sears-stick-welder-6581/

[Tom Lumpkins]

Here's a link to a good online book that has the info you wanted...
http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/guidelines_smaw.pdf

[Ten Hammers]

All the folks have posted good informative, educational links. I see no mention of the shop equipment (stick welder) you have access to. If you have AC/DC I would suggest you buy 5 lbs of 6011 1/8" and 5 lbs of 7014 1/8" and 5 lbs of 7018 1/8". These rods would more than likely be available in these quantities. I would then find a fab shop ( some kinda metal shop) that had drop steel from 14 ga to 1/2" or better in whatever shapes they had and either get a good deal to haul it off or pay them what they want. Even a scrap yard, rusty or not. Set up a few joints (outside corner, lap, tee, inside fillet etc). Sometimes you might just stick the electrode in the crack and drag it. Sometimes you may pattern to learn. After you have read the listed links and gone through these rods you will have gained a lot of experience (each rod has different welding characteristics). OR you might just enroll in the local college welding course. Learning the right way sometimes is easier that re-learning from breaking bad habits.

[horseshoe182]

Well what can I say, but, thats a big question, where do I start? My advise is, if your serious, go and do a short coarse at your local Tafe/poly tec ( we have tafe in Aus.) lets call it night school.
In my book there,s nothing like hands on learning, you will get a feel for all the different rods and the teacher will teacher you how to weld and give you guidance for where you are going wrong. Another good thing is that you can ask the teacher stacks of questions. Good luck with it.

[NeatGuy]

You must also consider the position you are welding in flat, horizontal, vertical up, over head ( I only weld vertical down with sheet metal) each has its own settings. I would take an class it will help you ensure proper settings and touble shoot your welds. In addition it will also teach you the correct technique.

brad

[Che Guevara]

1/8 rod is for anything over 1/4 inch thich amperage = rod diameter 1/8 rod is .125 therefore amperage = 125 same goes for 3/32 = .09375 = 93 amps

[horseshoe182]

1/8 rod is for anything over 1/4 inch thich amperage = rod diameter 1/8 rod is .125 therefore amperage = 125 same goes for 3/32 = .09375 = 93 amps

That is a simplistic veiw on size to amps. Will you weld 1/8 @ 125amps vertical up? What type of rod or you talking about?

[bigjohn]

If you are on a budget, oh yeah you are an artist. Silly me. Don't always assume that the local welding supply has the best deals on welding electrodes. Frequently, Home Depot and Lowe's stores have decent quality electrodes and for some bizarre reason do not seem to be affected by steel prices. Nexair in Memphis,TN increases prices at the slightest increase in steel prices. I would also recommend 6011's and 7018's in a 3/32" size if you are going to practice a while.

Happy Welding

[arftist]

1/8 rod is for anything over 1/4 inch thich amperage = rod diameter 1/8 rod is .125 therefore amperage = 125 same goes for 3/32 = .09375 = 93 amps

May be true for 7024. 93 amps is way to hot for 3/32-6011, and 125 amps is even a bit hot for 1/8-7018. Try turning the amps down a little and you may find you can weld thinner metal than 1/4" with an 1/8" rod. Also, you may need to have your welder load tested.