I did a leaf tonight and when it came to viening it with a chisel I chased it around out there quite a few times. So my question is which type of hold down works best for this sort of task. I've seen the hold downs that lock in the hardy hole and the ones that are spring loaded and wrap around the heel of the anvil. Also the mechanical clamping arrangement with the foot pedal that applies the pressure.
Curious what the thoughts are from the group before I pick one to build.

Thanks,
Dick

Try this one.....

http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/one-man-spring-loaded-holddown-9731/

It is what I had in mind (veining leaves) when I made it.

I've got a modified drill press clamp like a vise grip that screws on the drill press table ...I cut the bolt and welded a piece in to lengthen it so I can use it in the pricthel hole

Just for fun, type in 'carving block' in the search forum, I like to do that kind of thing in the vise.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll post what a build in the end.

Dick

Viening with a chisel on an anvil partialy cuts one side and doesn't do much to the other side. A viening tool to mark both side is easy to make. Draw out a piece of stock till it fits your hardy hole. Make sure it extends below your anvil a bit. Cut it off about an 1 1/2" over the top plate. Cut a groove across the top and radius the edges of the groove nicely. Cut an old cold chisel in half, round the point, and dull it a little. Make a u shape from a piece of leaf spring and weld the chisel to the leaf spring and the hardy tool so that the chisel is suspended over the groove and lined up with it perfectly. Preheat the ends of the leaf spring and the chisel before welding. leave a little space under the chisel.

arftist,
You wouldn't happen to have a picture of it would you.
Hope you do.
Billy

I would also like a pic, would be easier to see it in my mind, thanks.

Here is a quick model of what it sounds like to me.

Dick

I use this for veining too, hold the leaf with one hand insert under chisel, tap with hammer in other hand.

Dick L. has it down. the only two things you can't see in his picture or drawing is the groove under the chisel, and the rounded chisel point. The groove allows the metal to be pushed down into the groove when the chisel is struck, giving significant marking on both sides of the metal. The rounded end of the chisel enables one to follow a curved line when viening. A straight or flat chisel can only make a series of straight marks. I sold the last one I made to a smith just starting out, knowing the next time I need one, I would quickly build it and it would be better than the last one. To be honest, I was surprised the new guy wanted to buy something he could easily make, but to each his own.
O.K. , sorry, when I clicked on Dicks thumbnail, I see the groove. For me, the groove should run away from me, so I can clearly see the pencil or soapstone line I am following. I developed this tool when I was hired to make a copy of a grate from a wine cellar door made by Samuel Yellin. Nothing else I tried worked.

Edited April 16, 200917 yr by arftist