Ross_FL Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 My first attempt will be a mono tool steel blade. On Admiralsteel, they have A2, D2, L6 and O1. These are the steels I have to choose from. Right off the bat I eliminated the high nickel L6. This chart has a good break down of specific properties and grades out each tool steel for each property category. Here's the chart...Tool Steel Chart According to the chart, the high carbon high chrome D2 grades out well along with the A2, but the D2 has a BEST in wear resistance in exchange for the POOR machinability rating. I've also had W1 recommended, but Admiral no longer carries it apparently. Does anyone have any experience with D2? Sound like a good choice? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross_FL Posted April 11, 2009 Author Share Posted April 11, 2009 UPDATE: Here is an article with L6, D2 and 52100 going head to head. According to this article, the L6 fared the worst, while the D2 held it's edge best against various soft materials while the 52100 excelled in damage resistance against concrete. The 52100 alloy is also available at Admiral, hmmm, I may have a decision to make. I guess it will depend on what I plan on chopping as the finished product will be a machete. The only negative I see is Kevin Cashen's article in which he has some pretty harsh words for this steel, and it's tricky treatment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 (edited) Actually, if you are making a machete probably the better choice is 5160. One of the well known sword makers recommends it as a good carbon steel material for large weapons. From personal experience one of my good friends was given a machete sized kurki (sp) >blade with a 45deg bend< made of 5160 truck spring by a local smith in the philippiens during the Nam era. {How and why the smith wanted to gift my 6' 4" 220" Marine Sargent friend is a story for a crawfish Boil} Any way I knew it to be used in and around the family farm in East Tennesse for many years with no sign of problem or defect. His story of how the blade was hardened was that the smith stuck the edge in a large melon. (Hmmm, always wondered about that and the size and type of melon?) P.S. FYI Admiral sells a range of 5160 at prices substanily below D-2. Edited April 11, 2009 by Charlotte add sentence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross_FL Posted April 11, 2009 Author Share Posted April 11, 2009 Charlotte, I have read that 5160 is good for large blades. However, with the thickness I want this blade to be, around 3/16", you pretty much don't have to worry about the improved toughness of the 5160. But, the price IS a major factor and I see the 5160 would be a much better choice for my first blade. Thanks for the input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 Admital does not, and NEVER has carried any L-6. What they do sell is a 8670M with only half the alloy amounts of L6. They do list on the front page, but due to legal action have finally had to published that they only sell the 8670M in the price listing. I found out the hard way when they surprised me a few years ago when I first ordered the L-6 but that was not what they sent me it was clearly labeled 9670m, its a nice steel but not what ordered and paid for. Be careful ordering from them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross_FL Posted April 12, 2009 Author Share Posted April 12, 2009 Ahhh, I see. It lists it as (L6 Alternative). It looks like the alternative is short in chromium, manganese, nickel and moly.... wow, no where close. And I was actually considering the L6 for it's large blade qualities, thanks for the heads up! Looking at the Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 (edited) I buy from Crucible Service Centers for L-6, But be aware they only make it in rounds, where as Tinkin (Carpenter) makes flats as thin as 3/8 they are slightly different mixes, Both work well I am told, but have only used Crucible. Edited April 26, 2009 by steve sells typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 Go to speedymetals.com they have W1, but it's in round stock(drill rod), I like using round to fracture the structure by more than 100% instead of the recommended 50-80%. It also allows you to completely manipulate the blade into whatever shape you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 When you are considering steels to use for a blade make sure you do not look past those little words like...hard to machine. Think aboiut what it takes to fashion a blade whether yoiu use stock removal or forgeing, at some point you may want to refine your finished piece and if you are like most new to the craft that will be machining in a raw form..like with files and sandpaper or stones. If you are working the steel with hammer and forge look for things that may lead you to believe that it may be indeed difficult to forge by hand. And for sure look into what it will take to heat treat your piece after you have it in near final shape. What temperatures does it take for each of the steps involved? Can you reach those temperatures and can you hold them for the times necessary? LLet me give yyou an example: Recommendations for D-2. Preheat at 1400ffor 30 minutes. Raise temps to 1850f Soak at this temperature for 45 minutes to one hour. Temper at 400f for one hour two times. If you can not hold this criteria for optimal performance of the steel you choose you can send it out and have it done by a professional. There are many folks on here that heat treat this steel themselves using procedures they have developed through trial and error and extensive testiing and record keeping. That is also an option for you. If you choose a simple steel you will get almost instant satisfaction from methods that aer as simple as a recipe. 5160, 1084, and 1095 will make your finished product come to life with a lot less hassle and chances for faailure. Use all the data you can find but read the fine print and choose to make your life easy with a great knife at the end. For me I do use D-2 now and then for a lot of the reasons you pointed out. Then I send it out for heat treat. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 I've bought Crucible L6 from Chuck Bybee at Alpha Knife Supply, but he doesn't seem to have any listed on the site right now. You might email him and see what's up. I hope he hasn't stopped carrying it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 Let me rephrase your first posting. "I've never done this before so I'm going to choose one of the most difficult alloys to use and make a large and difficult to forge and heat treat item from it". I strongly encourage you to practice with something like 5160 and expect to ruin a dozen or so of them before getting it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 there is a sticky for how to choose steels, to make this part of the job simpler. It seemed good to post for helping new blade makers get started, but no one wants to read these days, I think they are waiting for the movie... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markb Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 no one wants to read these days, I think they are waiting for the movie... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross_FL Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share Posted April 15, 2009 I read every sticky regarding steel (thanks for posting them BTW). They were informative, I also found quite a bit on the net. I still had questions and I'll leave it at that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross_FL Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 Let me rephrase your first posting. "I've never done this before so I'm going to choose one of the most difficult alloys to use and make a large and difficult to forge and heat treat item from it". I strongly encourage you to practice with something like 5160 and expect to ruin a dozen or so of them before getting it down. You'll be glad to know, after looking at prices and considering my skill level, I have settled on a mulcher blade! It was free of course, and my friend at the golf course said there's plenty more where it came from. It sparks well, and according to the charts I have consulted, it appears to be somewhere between %0.25 and %0.80 carbon steel, so hopefully it won't be a flop, IF I get it all put together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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